Tires: Big is Badder right???

[SnowLizard]

I finished my 1st set of Nitto Trail Grapplers MT 285-70r16... yes its a real unicorn...


I bought at 157k miles, and I'm almost 190k now (189.9) so safe to say, 32k miles on roughly a 40k estimate mile tire...

due to being one of a kind... I'm a cross-road... stay on the size or go to more 'main-stream' size...

Option A.. 265/75r16... essentially 31.6x10.5r16
Option B.. 285/70r16... essentially 32.0x11.5r16 (current - unicorn tire)
Option C.. 285/75r16... essentailly 32.8x11.5r16

I'm leaning bigger, essentially the 33' I know I can clear current, I have plenty of room, Pinch has met the BFH and it's not in the way, I've trimmed my limited flares, I still have stock front bumper...

benefit would be more clearance... I would air down to 7.5-10 PSI on the harsh AZ rocks... my tires are now missing sections, not just chunks, all the way to the outer inner layer.

I love to explore abandoned roads, lots of over-growth and remote places. the rocks are sharp and take a toll...

I do have RR dif lock, and it helps ALOT.

the last question is MT vs AT... I know it's preference... but I'm looking at experiences for the sharp AZ rocks (or SW USA). if any have lasted longer vs the other...

I know the Nitto Trail Grapplers, but curious about the 'hybrid' Ridge Grapplers...

I have searched... just decided to make new thread anyways...

BTW 10psi on 10ply MT's... is like 30psi on P-rated tires... hard as rocks... but they grip like a clingy baby monkey.

 

[tcbaklash]

A warning about your Option C...

I have the same size tires and I was rubbing against my upper control arms with stock wheels and no spacers. You will need aftermarket wheels for the right route. Otherwise I have some Spidertrax 1.25" spacers I can sell you. IIRC the recommended level of lift to clear 33s is supposedly 4" but with enough cutting you can do it with 2" or 3".

American Racing makes wheels below $100 that are good quality if that's what you want to do. That's what I've got on mine.

 

[SnowLizard]

I am running a set of spider trax

 

[beartrapper]

285/75r16 will give you the most options. The Ridge Grappler is a hybrid at/ht tire, i would not get them for the level of offroading you are doing... I would recommend getting a tire with extremely beefed up sidewalls, 3 tires come to mind. bfg km3, cooper st maxx and stt pro... i personally am a big fan of cooper and have the stt pro, but i know guys that swear by the km3. st maxx is a hybrid at/mt, so better road manners.

 

[SnowLizard]

The ridge 285 only come in E 10ply...

The 265 come in both c and E (10 ply) rating...

I do understand it's new and possible design issue... But doubt it from such a company...

I am open to bfg ko2... Ran them, just always sold the vehicles that had them... with them before I wore them out...

 

[rickashay]

A warning about your Option C...

I have the same size tires and I was rubbing against my upper control arms with stock wheels and no spacers. You will need aftermarket wheels for the right route. Otherwise I have some Spidertrax 1.25" spacers I can sell you. IIRC the recommended level of lift to clear 33s is supposedly 4" but with enough cutting you can do it with 2" or 3".

American Racing makes wheels below $100 that are good quality if that's what you want to do. That's what I've got on mine.

Not necessarily. You can clear 35" tires with 1" lift. Just depends on how much you are willing to "massage". I used to have 1.75-2" in the front and cleared 285/75R16's with ease after some minor pinch weld work and the right offset on the wheels. Don't forget that getting an alignment with the correct amount of castor plays a HUGE roll in tire clearance as well. More castor moves the tires away from the firewall, greatly improving clearance. Lots of the reason people go with aftermarket UCA's - you get even MORE castor - but you can still maximize it with the factory UCA's.

285/75r16 will give you the most options. The Ridge Grappler is a hybrid at/ht tire, i would not get them for the level of offroading you are doing... I would recommend getting a tire with extremely beefed up sidewalls, 3 tires come to mind. bfg km3, cooper st maxx and stt pro... i personally am a big fan of cooper and have the stt pro, but i know guys that swear by the km3. st maxx is a hybrid at/mt, so better road manners.

Have you ran the Ridge Grappler? Toyo makes Nitto tires and the Ridge Grappler is Nitto's version of the Toyo RT. The Toyo RT is made with the same insanely strong tire carcass as the Toyo MT. I ran the RT for 2 years on my last truck and loved them. Lots of highway and offroad miles. I have 315/70R17 Ridge Grapplers in my garage, waiting to go on my 3rd gen.

The ridge 285 only come in E 10ply...

The 265 come in both c and E (10 ply) rating...

I do understand it's new and possible design issue... But doubt it from such a company...

I am open to bfg ko2... Ran them, just always sold the vehicles that had them... with them before I wore them out...

K02's are a great all around tire but I would not consider them to be as tough in the sidewall as the Nitto's or other comparables. The Cooper STT Pro's might be a good option for you as well, as they are a VERY tough tire. I ran them for about a year on my last build and I know a ton of guys here are running them and love them.

 

[TCMach]

Not necessarily. You can clear 35" tires with 1" lift. Just depends on how much you are willing to "massage".

This. I ran 285/75s with just hammering the pinch weld down on 3" lift. Now I run 37s with less than 2" lift with a 1" BL. Just depends on how much you want to hit or cut.

Also if bigger is badder I have to vote for 37s... :hat:

Oh, and I guess to give actual input on this. Vote +1 for ridge grapplers. Never used them on the 4Runner but have multiple friends with nothing but good things to say both new and after a year or so.

 

[theesotericone]

The Ridge Grappler was the best tire I've ever run. I'm currently on PitBull Rocker Radials in 35x12.5x17. Prior to those I was on 295/70/17 Ridge Grapplers.

The Ridge Grapplers are fairly quiet on the highway, the balance with very little weight, and they hook up off-road almost as good as the PitBulls. The sidewalls are super tough. A lot of my local wheeling is on shale and welded tuff. I've given them more opportunities to slash a sidewall then most and they have never cut. Last year I ran the Dusy with them and had zero complaints. I buddy that wheeled it with me was so impressed he ditched his MT's in favor of the Ridge Grapplers. Once I kill these PBR's 37" Ridge Grapplers are going under my rig.

As far as tire size itself goes, bigger is better in the rocks and worse on the highway. If your goal is to be more capable off-road go big. If it's to have a DD that can take you off-road when needed stay smaller.

 

[Unner]

If you want an off road tire that'll last longer try the ST Maxx, you can get them in a skinny 33 also so less fitment issues. I've got 50k on mine and they've got probably right at half the tread depth left. It's amazing how well they wear, and how well they handle in almost any situation.

 

[SeaDug]

Not necessarily. You can clear 35" tires with 1" lift. Just depends on how much you are willing to "massage". I used to have 1.75-2" in the front and cleared 285/75R16's with ease after some minor pinch weld work and the right offset on the wheels. Don't forget that getting an alignment with the correct amount of castor plays a HUGE roll in tire clearance as well. More castor moves the tires away from the firewall, greatly improving clearance. Lots of the reason people go with aftermarket UCA's - you get even MORE castor - but you can still maximize it with the factory UCA's.



Have you ran the Ridge Grappler? Toyo makes Nitto tires and the Ridge Grappler is Nitto's version of the Toyo RT. The Toyo RT is made with the same insanely strong tire carcass as the Toyo MT. I ran the RT for 2 years on my last truck and loved them. Lots of highway and offroad miles. I have 315/70R17 Ridge Grapplers in my garage, waiting to go on my 3rd gen.



K02's are a great all around tire but I would not consider them to be as tough in the sidewall as the Nitto's or other comparables. The Cooper STT Pro's might be a good option for you as well, as they are a VERY tough tire. I ran them for about a year on my last build and I know a ton of guys here are running them and love them.

Any advice on how to clear 33's? I have a 2.5in lift, will they rub?

 

[CaboRunner]

Check out the Pro Comp Xtreme MT2 in 285/75/16. I’ve got 5 days on them of heavy off-roading/crawling and can’t say enough good things about them. Our terrain here has similarities to yours. Coming from the Cooper STT Pro I cant believe how good these work in sand and rocky hard pack desert. They are also “D” rated and under 50lbs per tire. Almost 15lbs less per tire than the STT and really noticeable with our motors. The only negative I have is they’re fairly noisy at highway speed. 4Wheel Parts usually has them at $250 off for a set.

 

[TonyB66]

Any advice on how to clear 33's? I have a 2.5in lift, will they rub?

If you are willing to get SPC UCAs, on the "G" setting, several here have stated that 33s can fit with no pounding. This is what I'm doing now...

 

[SeaDug]

If you are willing to get SPC UCAs, on the "G" setting, several here have stated that 33s can fit with no pounding. This is what I'm doing now...

Thanks, I hope they aren't too expensive lol

 

[TonyB66]

Thanks, I hope they aren't too expensive lol

Got them in a group buy (check that section) for $400 delivered. Part number 25460.

 

[Hopeless Diamond]

If you are willing to get SPC UCAs, on the "G" setting, several here have stated that 33s can fit with no pounding. This is what I'm doing now...

That's where I'm at and no problems. Using ~4.5" BS wheels with the STT Pro 285/75-16. Actually thinking I may back off the SPCs to "F".

Only rubbing I have is at the back on the stock mud flaps at full flex.

 

[TonyB66]

That's where I'm at and no problems. Using ~4.5" BS wheels with the STT Pro 285/75-16. Actually thinking I may back off the SPCs to "F".

Only rubbing I have is at the back on the stock mud flaps at full flex.

If you go the "F" route, please do share, PM me even, if you don't mind. Curious how that goes...

I have SCS wheels - 17 X 8.5 with 4.3 BS

Kings are settling now, adding a winch in the coming days. Will likely get an alignment later this month (don't need to drive it), allowing more time for the springs to settle...

 

[Hopeless Diamond]

Will do, may be a while though. I had them crank the LCA bolts so I got as much caster as possible (before tires and wheels), and am now borderline on camber, even with the SPC UCAs. My plan is to start backing off on the SPC caster settings and try and get the camber back to where I want it without having to resort to the BFH on the pinch weld. Might even be able to back it off to the "E" setting, but that may need some loving with the hammer. For now though, it's getting into play season so I'm gunna run what I brung until something breaks (or fires shut down the forest for the summer)

 

[Fishwerks]

due to being one of a kind... I'm a cross-road... stay on the size or go to more 'main-stream' size...

Option A.. 265/75r16... essentially 31.6x10.5r16
Option B.. 285/70r16... essentially 32.0x11.5r16 (current - unicorn tire)
Option C.. 285/75r16... essentailly 32.8x11.5r16

I'm leaning bigger, essentially the 33' I know I can clear current, I have plenty of room, Pinch has met the BFH and it's not in the way, I've trimmed my limited flares, I still have stock front bumper...

benefit would be more clearance... I would air down to 7.5-10 PSI on the harsh AZ rocks... my tires are now missing sections, not just chunks, all the way to the outer inner layer.

I love to explore abandoned roads, lots of over-growth and remote places. the rocks are sharp and take a toll...

I do have RR dif lock, and it helps ALOT.

the last question is MT vs AT... I know it's preference... but I'm looking at experiences for the sharp AZ rocks (or SW USA). if any have lasted longer vs the other...

I know the Nitto Trail Grapplers, but curious about the 'hybrid' Ridge Grapplers...

Your current tire is close enough in diameter to the 285/75/16 that I would just go for it and trim more if needed. You will gain 0.4" of clearance based on most tires specs. But that size opens up way more tire options which is the real benefit.

For some anectodal information on the Nitto ridge graps - I have them on my wife's 5th gen and they have been awesome on-road, in snow/ice/slush and in light off-road driving. Sounds like some other people here have liked them in the rocks too.

If you stick with 3-ply sidewall tires since you will be off-road a lot you really can't go wrong, all have their strengths and weaknesses and could still get holes popped in them.

 

[SnowLizard]

I feel like a pup that's been scolded...

so, I've gotten the ply all wrong, I was thinking I want a nice 'thick' 3 ply sidewall with a standard 10 ply tire... thinking sidewalls have a different ply than the tire (tread area) itself.

so, I need to stay with the 10 ply itself. and I need to make sure the sidewalls are protected enough...


that leaves me with less choices, but more educated choices.


now, what to get... I'm thinking an AT type tread... instead of the MT I have now... what are the thoughts on this? a 'harder' rubber vs the HOT sharp rocks of AZ trails... stay 10+ ply.

I'm leaning KO2's

 

[Fishwerks]

I feel like a pup that's been scolded...

so, I've gotten the ply all wrong, I was thinking I want a nice 'thick' 3 ply sidewall with a standard 10 ply tire... thinking sidewalls have a different ply than the tire (tread area) itself.

so, I need to stay with the 10 ply itself. and I need to make sure the sidewalls are protected enough...


that leaves me with less choices, but more educated choices.


now, what to get... I'm thinking an AT type tread... instead of the MT I have now... what are the thoughts on this? a 'harder' rubber vs the HOT sharp rocks of AZ trails... stay 10+ ply.

I'm leaning KO2's

Your original line of thought is correct. The number of plies in the sidewall and the tread are different. The sidewall of the tire will tell you how many plies the sidewall and the tread have.

FYI most LT "10-ply" tires don't actually have 10 plies in the tread anymore. It's just another way to look at the load rating. 10-ply rating = Load Range E. Load Range E tires I have looked at contain 5-6 tread plies and 2-3 sidewall plies.

Pick your favorite and have fun driving around!