To buy low mileage or high mileage, that is the question

[DDeezenuts]

Still on the hunt for 99-02 t4r. Have passed on several but a few have popped up here lately that have me scratching my head for some reason.

I have always said I wanted to buy the lowest mileage t4r I could find In excellent condition however nowadays with the Toyota tax being radically imposed on potential buyers there is a pretty large discrepancy in price ($3-5k) between higher (>200k) and lower mileage (<150k) t4r's depending on the seller.

For example, found the "holy grail" of t4rs the other day 1999 limited 4wd with 119k miles and RR diff lock for $9000 (not local). Then found a 98 limited 4wd (local) with 225k for $6000. While I know it's only $3000 difference the 99 limited is a 50% increase over the 98.

I will be driving quite a bit for work the next few years but I am anal about maintenance, etc. For the sake of discussion, Let's estimate 25k/year. Therefore for every 25k miles I save on the vehicle I am getting a year's worth of life out of the vehicle compared to a higher mileage t4r. So in theory the 99 limited has approximately 4 years of extra life on it that the 98 wouldn't because the 99 has 100k less miles. On the flip side, If I bought the 99 with as many miles as I drive I will definitely take a hit on the value of the 99 when I sell it because not only is it overpriced now but with the quick accumulation of miles The 99 will take a hit on the value at some point.

So here is the question, buy a lower mileage but more expensive t4r and take a hit on the value when I sell or buy a higher mileage t4r and potentially have less driving life out of it but take much less of a hit on value when I sell down the road because I bought it at a cheaper price? My practical side likes the idea of driving a car for "free" (minus maintenance) if you could sell for roughly what you purchased after driving for a few years. Not sure that would happen but just thinking out loud....

Yes I know the 3.4 will run forever if you take car of it but at some point these engines wear out and one must move on so I guess something else to consider is what is the max life folks are getting out of their 3.4? I have only seen a few go beyond the 300k mark.

 

[JayRolla]

The 3.4 is stout and can go well over 300k. Issue is high mileage everything will need addressed other than motor. Bought mine at 180k and ended up doing lots of work. All suspension needed replaced, brakes, radiator, all steering components including ball joints, itres, otres, steering rack, upper lower ball joints, rear axle seals, tcase seal, and lots of other stuff.

Always go low mileage if you can. Saves you not only money but time labor and headaches down the road.

 

[MCObray]

"1999 limited 4wd with 119k miles and RR diff lock for $9000"

Got a link?

I am in the same boat as you are, and am looking for '99-'00 with 100K miles - 160K miles. Everything in my area is absolutely inflated so i'll be definitely be paying in the 8K - 10K range. Maintenance is a pretty big deal to me... if the previous owner has a good track record than it's a go.

 

[DDeezenuts]

The 3.4 is stout and can go well over 300k. Issue is high mileage everything will need addressed other than motor. Bought mine at 180k and ended up doing lots of work. All suspension needed replaced, brakes, radiator, all steering components including ball joints, itres, otres, steering rack, upper lower ball joints, rear axle seals, tcase seal, and lots of other stuff.

Always go low mileage if you can. Saves you not only money but time labor and headaches down the road.

Thanks for getting me back on track. Agreed

 

[nissanh]

i DISAGREE!

Thanks for getting me back on track. Agreed

I bought mine at 176K miles and the things I did so far: (Now at 206K miles)
T-Belt/water pump
Radiator (just to avoid pink milkshake)
Fan clutch (for no reason)
Fan bracket
Coolant/Oil all around
Rear Drive shaft
CV boot
Fuel filter
Lower Ball joint (Just for the peace of mind)
Valve cover gasket
Spark plugs
PCV

That's about it.

Everything else in the truck is tight and firm.
I will buy a 4runner that has 230-240K miles without any doubt (with maintenance records). With 300K+ miles, yes, you will expect to replace, bearings/alternator/starter things like that.

 

[Ed_C]

Resale value wasn't even on my mind when I bought mine, I saw low-ish mileage (10-11k miles driven per year),clean chassis and everything else which sealed the deal. If you want to "flip" vehicles for a decent profit buy a compact import car like a Civic or Integra.

If those two you looked at are at about the same visual condition (chassis,paint,intereior) but the cheaper,higher mileage '98 had a lot of maintenance and mechanical repairs (like alternator,steering rack,etc) and the more expensive lower mileage '99 had nothing done, I'd go with the '98. That $3k saved could be used for upgrades/future repairs. If both had the similar maintenance/repair history go low mileage.

 

[Bstrom]

The 3.4 is stout and can go well over 300k. Issue is high mileage everything will need addressed other than motor. Bought mine at 180k and ended up doing lots of work. All suspension needed replaced, brakes, radiator, all steering components including ball joints, itres, otres, steering rack, upper lower ball joints, rear axle seals, tcase seal, and lots of other stuff.

Always go low mileage if you can. Saves you not only money but time labor and headaches down the road.

On the flip side, my '99 had 184k (11k miles/yr avg) when I bought it in late October 2015 for $6200. In relatively perfect condition - no maintenance required, no oil consumption, excellent fuel mileage and exceptional body condition. Michelin LTX tires had 70% tread. So, no additional funds needed to bring it into proper condition. Will need a new TB in 20k miles - maybe.

I won't put 10k miles a year on mine so am calculating adding 120k (300k mile target) in about 10 years - that's just a $620/yr. amortization with a 25 year potential lifespan. Dirt cheap.
For a 25k mile per year requirement, what is each year worth to you?

Here's a simple breakdown for four years of ownership:
At $6000 cash, it's just $1500/yr. Pretty cheap ride.
At $8000 cash, you're still only paying $2000 per year.
At $30,000 for a late model 'runner, you would spend $7500/yr - plus interest!

That's how I determine my decision - mileage vs. usable years. Maintenance is the real intangible - one serious repair can elevate all these costs but for a $6-$8000 investment it still beats buying a newer vehicle every time. If my '99 ever blows its engine or tranny beyond repair, I'll just part it out and start over.

 

[Ol'Blue]

I own two 3rd Gens and this is what I looked for in both truck. Maint Records!

My 99 had 198 on the clock but it had every single oil change record in it. hell it even had the shipping invoice from Japan.

My 01 was from a member on the forum. Enough said about that. It was a 137,000 mile truck.

In reality I really have not done much to either truck other than personal stuff I like and Mods.

A new battery here and Alt in one of them. the older one I did lower intake gaskets and valve cover gaskets on etc. Also replaced a Radiator. Its all easy stuff.

Just look for a truck that has been cared for and not beat to piss and you will be good.

Blue

 

[white_n_slow]

When buying a toyota, maintenance history and condition trumps mileage. I'd buy a high-mile truck with the options I want without hesitation as long as I have some evidence or at least a strong suspicion that it was well cared for. My current beater has 310k miles and runs like a top.

 

[St Runner]

I am a firm believer in owning multiple vehicles. Buy a higher milage 4runner and put most of your milage on a high mpg commuter car. You will pay a little more up front for 2 vehicles, but your gas cost will make up for it and your flexibility with having another vehicle is a great thing. If you are going to put 25k miles a year on a vehicle do it to one you don't have an attachment too.

 

[Bstrom]

If you are going to put 25k miles a year on a vehicle do it to one you don't have an attachment too.

This is the ideal situation...you like Civics?

 

[Beaumont67]

.............For example, found the "holy grail" �� of t4rs the other day 1999 limited 4wd with 119k miles and RR diff lock for $9000 (not local). Then found a 98 limited 4wd (local) with 225k for $6000. While I know it's only $3000 difference the 99 limited is a

These gen3's are 15 years old now - how often does one find the holy grail in 4x4's, with the big bonus of low mileage ??
^^ Not often - so a 50% $$ premium, is chicken feed...in the grand scheme of SUV ownership.
- if you purchase the high mile cheaper one & save $3,000 / you will always regret it

I just bought a one owner/rust free/factory paint, 2000 4Runner, 4x4 auto (SR5, no E-locker) with 80,000 original miles (129,500 Km).
- and gladly paying 50% over book value / still a 20 cents on the dollar purchase, compared to buying brand new / with zero interest payments
- fully maintained at a Lexus/Toyota dealership
- I live in a Canadian rust belt, up here its a once in a life time find locally / without searching out of province or state side

Pistons, cylinder walls, cams, crankshaft, valves, etc. all wear with added miles / always go with low miles, and pay the price...cheaper in the end.
- that's why I also run AMSOIL true synthetic, when I get a vehicle I'm keeping, for a long time & wax-oil spray undercoat, with Fluid Film

 

[cashmoney]

Y'all are way over thinking this. It's a 16yr old mass produced vehicle. Paying more than $5000 is a waste of money. These aren't collector cars. I bought mine with 218k miles for $3700. I drive 20-25k miles a year. Buy it cheap, do maintenance, save the money. It's as simple as that.

 

[Buck208]

So, basically what the consensus is if you can't or don't want to afford a secondary daily driver car (think camry/ civic) and the 4RNR is your daily driver (which is a good daily driver) buy one with the most maintenance records available that fits your budget. These are lifestyle vehicles so we often pay more than we should due to the numerous reasons listed throughout the forums. Enjoy your search but don't let the search for the holy grail consume you......

 

[jeremyc74]

For example, found the "holy grail" &#55357;&#56860; of t4rs the other day 1999 limited 4wd with 119k miles and RR diff lock for $9000 (not local). Then found a 98 limited 4wd (local) with 225k for $6000. While I know it's only $3000 difference the 99 limited is a 50% increase over the 98.

.

There's a lot of factors that come into play here. Unless the 98 has already had a lot of things done to it, you'll likely burn through a lot of the $3k getting it back into shape. At 225k you're going to want to do a full suspension overhaul (shocks, struts, springs, bushings, tie rods, and ball joints), and then flush all the fluids.

Now, if you're planning on lifting it no matter which one you buy, that negate some of that.

Personally I'd go for the lower mileage. There's just that much less history that you need to worry about. These are great trucks, but they're not indestructible. I'm looking at having to tear the rear end apart on mine right now to replace a pinion bearing, or swap the whole third member.

If you pick one up with 225k on it, you may get another 100k out of it before something major happens, or you may not. If you pick one up with 120k on it, you'll almost certainly get another 100k out of it before something major happens.

 

[Utopia]

I too am in the same boat. I have been looking for a 2000-2002 limited and wondered if I should look for 180k or a 100k t4r. I already have plans to replace the known issues, radiator , plugs, fuel filter etc.n. So for me it's a matter of color but do you same the money and buy the higher mileage one or spend more and get a lower one? I am in northern Iowa, so rust is also an issue.

 

[Bstrom]

There's a lot of factors that come into play here. Unless the 98 has already had a lot of things done to it, you'll likely burn through a lot of the $3k getting it back into shape. At 225k you're going to want to do a full suspension overhaul (shocks, struts, springs, bushings, tie rods, and ball joints), and then flush all the fluids.

If you pick one up with 225k on it, you may get another 100k out of it before something major happens, or you may not. If you pick one up with 120k on it, you'll almost certainly get another 100k out of it before something major happens.

This is the right idea - pay up and get a few years of use before heavy maintenance comes along that would negate any savings with an older model - unless your high mileage gem is road ready with no immediate needs to attend to, like mine is. I'll have $7-8000 in my '99 eventually but that expense will be spread out over about 3-5 years - an easier pill to swallow.

As mentioned, reliability is not guaranteed in spite of the Toyota name. My '99 has had tranny and rear end work that was a tad premature but I am banking on all that wrenching for some serious longevity. Current maintenance and Michelin tires should carry me to the 200k mile mark - at that point a suspension refresh will be in order. If I can get five years or more out of this vehicle with typical maintenance and no serious issues I will be pretty tickled.

 

[RPS99SHO]

I'm in the same boat. More upfront for fewer miles or save the overage from a higher mileage rig for repairs and maintenance...

 

[Mozambique]

Hi Guys,

Where I live a truck that has done 150k miles is really beat.
Almost never been maintained and certainly bled for every mile it can push out without having a dime on maintenance spent on it.
For me low millage is paramount. I plan on having this car for the next 25 years at the very least. I am 38 years old and waited 7 years to be able to afford my own truck.
4 Runners were never sold by Toyota here, too much competition for their local market model trucks that were sold here. Sad really ...... if you see how many Surf's ( Japanese version of the 4 Runner) are here from Japan as imports I recon Toyota will be kicking them selves.
I really wanted a V6 and more important than anything - a manual version. Manual anything in Japan is hard to find - I thought that would be the case States side as well and am very surprised to hear you have many V6 Manual versions there!
I can tell you from experience as a bush mechanic (we re-purpose everything we can as there is no where "locally" you can get anything at all and I mean that. Even good quality motor oils are hard to come by out here) that 99% of the Japanese imports I have seen have been 99% rust free and impeccably maintained in Japan.

Not sure how an import effects you guys over the pond - My 3rd Gen, auto, 2.7l 3RZ with 75000km's (45000miles ish?)on the clock cost 6000$usd. If I had had more time and a bigger budget I know I could have gotten something much newer -mileage wise, but doubt better condition as they are all pretty tidy over there on the auction sights. I went for the 2.7 as that motor is in a truck that was sold here by Toyota called a Prado so spares will be easier to find.
Landed here, registered in my name keys in hand we are looking at 8500$usd
Downside is ...... every thing that I would like to do to my ride that I will have for many many years will cost me at the very least 150% more than what you would pay states side. Suspension lifts and any mods you can think of.
Genuine Toyota parts too are going to be a hell of a nightmare to get but I will find a way.
Moz.

 

[amalik]

Personally I'd go for the lower mileage. There's just that much less history that you need to worry about. These are great trucks, but they're not indestructible. I'm looking at having to tear the rear end apart on mine right now to replace a pinion bearing, or swap the whole third member.

Jeremy,

Let me guess -- Rear pinion seal that keeps leaking?