To Repair, Replace or Retire?

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ErikZ1220

New member
Hey everyone, I'm new to the forum, but NOT new to owning a 4Runner. I had a '99 Sport, and Currently an '04 Sport..

I've seen the thread regarding blown gaskets on the 4G 4runners, and I have found myself victim to this..138,000 miles, and the gasket(s) have failed....and of course, I found this out EXACTLY 1 week after paying it off. :frusty:

My question is.. How did it work out for everyone that has had the head gaskets repaired? or the engine replaced? I'm nervous to say the least..

Also, Does anyone know of a repair shop in Massachusetts that they trust(ed) to do this job? How much should I 'expect' to pay?

Other than the gaskets, my truck has been fairly 'repair free', so I really don't want to see her go... Winter is coming, and I want my baby back.
 
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If you haven't damaged the engine and/or overheated the engine yet; then you should be good to just repair it.

I would recommend if you can spend the money to have a Toyota dealership (preferably) or an independent shop you trust (if you go this route, make sure they document everything and such so you can provide it to Toyota) verify the headgasket has failed so you can file a report/claim to Toyota on the issue. I am recommending all members with this issue to pile it on Toyota so they actually do SOMETHING about this because there IS an updated headgasket design for the older 1GR-FE 4.0L engines.

That being said, if you haven't damaged the engine in terms of overheating, hydraulically locking it up, and/or blown it to smithereens; replacing the head gaskets with new factory gaskets will fix the issue perfectly fine. However it is not an inexpensive repair and does require a bit of coin, but if you can afford to fix it the truck should last you a long while.
 
BlackWorksInc said:
If you haven't damaged the engine and/or overheated the engine yet; then you should be good to just repair it.
Click to expand...

My truck has never overheated, but there was a time last year that my thermostat was reading rather high, and then I had the radiator replaced.. But this was long before the Head Gasket issue.. Should that matter.. like is said, it never overheated, but I think it got pretty close...

I don't really have the coin to go to a Toyota Dealer, and the mechanic I trust doesn't do 'large jobs', whatever THAT means..

Looking for a solution...
 
I was reading on the V6 HG repair the last few days...seems like folks were quoting 10 hrs min for the job...prices were high $2000's to the $3's

sorry your rig is on the rocks...feel ya...gotta throw $1200 of rubber on mine this week and have another timing belt water pump job coming up around the corner...so that puts me into another $1500....then a year ago A/C went out for $2000....its all worth it in my book...good luck
 
Where are you in Mass? I know of a few good shops depending on your location. Personally I'd fix it as the truck should go another 100k plus with out issue and it beats a car payment.
 
My feeling is that since you said the vehicle is paid for, then it's worth fixing. Even if you have to borrow money to get the job done. 3-6 months worth of payments is better than buying another truck and having years worth of payments. I think I'd get it fixed at a Toyota dealership so you know it's done right.
 
THANKS GUYS! I really would love to have my truck repaired and back in action for sure.

I'm in Auburn,Ma (just south of Worcester)..

but I have AAA Plus, so I am prepared to have it towed up to 100 miles for the RIGHT mechanic.
 
I know a mechanic (since he was a little kid riding a CR80 dirt bike) that works at Acton Toyota that would do a good job but you are looking at dealer flat rate price. If you decide to go to them let me know I can PM you his name and mine for a reference.
 
ErikZ1220 said:
THANKS GUYS! I really would love to have my truck repaired and back in action for sure.

I'm in Auburn,Ma (just south of Worcester)..

but I have AAA Plus, so I am prepared to have it towed up to 100 miles for the RIGHT mechanic.
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No problem..... I'm in Quincy and have had good luck with the mechanics at Tufjankian over here in Braintree.... I do most of my own service but at the time was reluctant to do the 90K timing belt service so took it to them.... While it was in the shop I also had them remove a number of broken/rusted bolts (I broke them while trying to remove my armor) and replace my spare tire carrier that had rusted solid.... I had a chance to go on the service floor and talk to the mechanic that did the work.... The service floor was immaculate and the mechanic was very knowledgeable.... Price was pretty typical for a dealer but based on what I saw and the quality of the work they are now my dealer for anything beyond my normal "shade tree mechanic" comfort zone.....
 
So, brought the 4Runner in for a second opinion and for repair..

Not only did they confirm that the Head Gasket is blown, but they also said that I have 1 or more axles that will need to be replaced...

AND to add to my frustration... They said that they won't even take the head gasket job... Which kind of pisses me off since I told them before I brought the truck there that I was bringing it there FOR A GASKET REPAIR!!! :wtf:

They pretty much said to sell it or trade it...(after I pay them for their diagnostics)

:noidea::mad2:
 
sorry man that sucks! In the grand scheme of things, would it really make sense not to make another tow to a different shop? Or depending on your mechanical skills you may be able to find a local junk yard for an engine transplant. Also to be completely honest a head gasket isn't terribly difficult to do. There are a ton of videos, DIY threads between 4tr, 120, TW, or any other toyota websites that have lots of threads to take the engines apart. The only thing I would recommend is to have the heads machined and the block measured and or machined flat as well. Even if it takes 3 weeks to complete the job and maybe 2k you now have a lot of new knowledge of your vehicle and you would feel confident in its ability to go another 100-150k plus without major issues
 
Depends on the damage. The axle, I am assuming we are talking a front half axle since the rear is a single and pretty hearty. The rear diff is usually what goes.

1. The front half shaft is an easy fix. If they mean a boot rip, which is fairly common on a vehicle with miles; that is also an easy fix and I wouldn't hesitate to have it done.

2. The issue with a blown hg is how long as it been? What happens is coolant seeps in the cylinders and if left like this for long, starts to do serious internal damage since it destroys the lubrication of the impacted cylinders, as well as destroying the lubricating effects of the oil. It doesn't destroy the cylinders instantly, as it is usually a small leak. If it has done damage to the engine, then you are talking rebuild or other labor intensive project.

If not, say fairly early on and no damage has been done to the block; then just the HG replacement would be cheaper.

Get some quotes and come back. If we are talking 3k, as some have suggested, on a vehicle with around a 7-9 private and 5-7 dealer trade in; then I don't know if it is worth it.

If the car runs and you disclose the HG issue; you can probably still get 5-7k out of it from someone willing to do the work on its own. I don't see a HG replacement getting you more bang for buck.

But, if you intend to keep it bc you like it; then go for it. The 2004 (which I have) is now at the point where it is at the price point where massive repairs no longer have a huge impact on the sales.

Just food for thought.
 
UPDATE;

Had the head gaskets done - new water pump, pulleys, and other assorted 'while we were in there' kinda stuff...

She's running great, sounds good and strong - but with one side effect..

Oil light comes on at idle, and only at idle... The motor is still getting oil pumped through it and has plenty of it... I've wiggled the sensor while the light was on and it went off, however, when I start the truck cold, I can hear that the oil needs to work its way through..

Thoughts?
 
Does it seem that the engine is idling lower than it used to? If not I would replace the oil pressure switch and see what happens if the light still comes on bring it back to the shop who did the work. Was the oil milky before you had the hgs done?
 
ErikZ1220 said:
UPDATE;

Had the head gaskets done - new water pump, pulleys, and other assorted 'while we were in there' kinda stuff...

She's running great, sounds good and strong - but with one side effect..

Oil light comes on at idle, and only at idle... The motor is still getting oil pumped through it and has plenty of it... I've wiggled the sensor while the light was on and it went off, however, when I start the truck cold, I can hear that the oil needs to work its way through..

Thoughts?
Click to expand...

There should be a check valve in the system to keep oil on the pressure side. Typically the oil filter has a check valve too. Maybe swap out the oil filter and see if it goes away. Otherwise take it back and let them know of the problem.
 
Not to hijack this thread but is the head gasket issue more common to v6's or v8's....or both?
 
satanos6668280 said:
Does it seem that the engine is idling lower than it used to? If not I would replace the oil pressure switch and see what happens if the light still comes on bring it back to the shop who did the work. Was the oil milky before you had the hgs done?
Click to expand...

The engine is idling normal... I'm not sure about the oil being 'milky' but I was told there was coolant in the oil, so I'm assuming that answer would be 'yes'..

I will give the oil pressure switch replacement a shot though.
 
450exc115 said:
There should be a check valve in the system to keep oil on the pressure side. Typically the oil filter has a check valve too. Maybe swap out the oil filter and see if it goes away. Otherwise take it back and let them know of the problem.
Click to expand...

I did swap out the oil filter already.. that didn't change anything..

Is the other check valve difficult to get at?
 
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