To switch or not to switch...

[barryhiram]

Which switch do you prefer AOB or Slee ?

Both brands work equally well and are basically the same quality, can't go wrong either way. My preference is AOB due to looks, options, and flexibility.

CON: both are not the same quality as factory Toyota switches.

Slee: offers only one switch, generic laser etched face plate, backlit color green. Switch is a latching switch on/off.




AOB: offers multiple switches with different laser etched face plates so you can match switch to component you are operating. Backlit options are blue/blue, red/green, green/green, amber/amber. Switches can be ordered as latching (on/off) or momentary operation.

 

[GoHerd]

Only one wire for illumination?

Help, please. Trying to sort this out. Please see photos.

I bought an LED grill bar from Rago Fabrication. Kit included the relay harness and the switch below, which I believe may be an AOB switch.

Harness had three wires running to a standard switch, and the "Toyota" switch came with a wiring diagram on how to attach to the relay's wiring. That leaves the one additional wire for the backlighting/dimming.

I figure I can use the wiper heater backlight wire, but which one is it? And why only the one wire? The other examples I've seen on the forum show using both wires from the factory switch.

Thank you for any assistance.

To whom this may concern...

Regarding the dashboard Illumination circuit: Your RSCA, Party-mode, Windshield wiper/mirror heater, Hazards, Temperature control and 120V Power inverter switches... these DO connect to the Dimmer dial (Rheostat) on the GND-side; the GREEN HOT (POS) DOES NOT!. The Gray wire behind those switches is the NEG (GND) wire which can be used to connect your illuminated switches (AOB, slee off-road, OTRATTW... etc) to the dimmer circuit.

But please be advised: This circuit is for Pilot duty ONLY i.e., no triggers, no accessory loads or any other high amperage drawing utilities! If more than 'Fractional' amperage is consumed here, you may cause damage to the Main body ECU COMPU or Rheostat 'BEFORE' you even blow the fuse! ...Okay so be careful.

Best to you!

 

[rigtec]

Help, please. Trying to sort this out. Please see photos.

Hi GoHerd,

Here are the switch harness wiring designations from the AOB diagram:

Reading from left to right: The BLK wire is ground (connecting it to the GRAY wire going to your courtesy circuit will enable the backlight to dim with the others). The RED wire next to the black is the dash light courtesy circuit backlighting.

The RED wire next to that is POWER OUT: trigger to the relay. And the GREEN wire on the extreme right goes to a power source e.g., cigarette lighter, battery... (HOT)! Hope this helps 'Best to you',

rig

 

[GoHerd]

Thank you so kindly for the quick response. I am so sorry but I am still a bit confused.

As I have the switch wired now, it is functional and turns on the light bar as expected (along with illuminating the switch when activated), but of course I have no secondary backlighting and it doesn't dim.

I have the three wires coming from the relay to which it is currently wired, leaving that fourth wire from the switch free (tagged with blue painter's tape). The instructions they provided suggest it connects to the dash light circuit to provide the backlighting.

Given the concerns expressed in this thread about screwing up the ECU by tapping in to the wrong wire, I'm gun shy.

So with your connection, I am unsure what to do with the three from the relay harness they provided. Is it possible that that fourth wire from the switch could tap in to just one of the wires from the wiper heater switch?

Ack. I am sorry if this question seems naive.

Hi GoHerd,

Here are the switch harness wiring designations from the AOB diagram:

Reading from left to right: The BLK wire is ground (connecting it to the GRAY wire going to your courtesy circuit will enable the backlight to dim with the others). The RED wire next to the black is the dash light courtesy circuit backlighting.

The RED wire next to that is POWER OUT: trigger to the relay. And the GREEN wire on the extreme right goes to a power source e.g., cigarette lighter, battery... (HOT)! Hope this helps 'Best to you',

rig

 

[rigtec]

"Thank you so kindly for the quick response. I am so sorry but I am still a bit confused.

As I have the switch wired now, it is functional and turns on the light bar as expected (along with illuminating the switch when activated), but of course I have no secondary backlighting and it doesn't dim..."

Hi GoHerd,

No, don't apologize... there's no need for that as we're ALL HERE TO HELP OUT whenever possible! Okay, the RED wire with the blue tape around it is the courtesy 'Back-lighting' circuit; so connect that to one of the other factory switches that glow when the parking/headlights are on... and that takes care of that.

You must have connected the BLK wire (GND) through the wiring harness that they sent you with the kit... it'll never dim that way. Ground your AOB switch to the Gray wire that's connected to one of the dash switches that are controlled by the dimmer dial; test your switch selection 'BEFORE' you make your connections just to be sure that the switch you're connecting to dims with the others.

Don't worry about hurting the 'Main Body ECU Compu Network' I still have yet to see one fry, lol! There are only four wires on the switch that you will need to make it work: Power in (from cigarette lighter or battery), power out to the relay 'or trigger' (#85, relay coil), the GND (Black wire #86 on relay coil), and the RED wire with the tape on it for back-light... that's it! Connect it this way and you're DONE!

EDIT: The AOB switch uses a gray wire in the dash to utilize the dimmer dial... The relay coil uses a different ground which comes from the battery through the LED harness.

rig, cheers

 

[rigtec]

I figure I can use the wiper heater backlight wire, but which one is it? And why only the one wire?

Oh, to answer this question...

You're not only using one wire; you're using two wires, the RED with the blue masking tape on it, and the black (GND) wire. You should test it; do this: Connect the switch to it's small harness (pigtail). Now, just touch the BLK wire to the negative battery terminal, and the RED wire next to it to the POS battery terminal... the back-light should light up.

...let us know what happens! rig