Too high of a CV angle after lift install

[royal T4R]

Yet another one of these threads but with pictures! I am looking for input on my set up and ideas on how to correct the issues I am having.

I get a front end skip when crawling slowly and a knocking sound from what i think is on the front passenger side. I replaced both OEM CVs with Cardone front CVs. The knocking got better on the passenger side but it still skips when I turn right. I think the CV angle is way too high.

• 2004 V8 SR5

• 
  Bilstein 5100s all around with fronts on the lowest setting

• 
  OME886 fronts

• 
  Toytec superflex rears

• 
  1/2 inch tophat spacer on both driver and passenger front

ground to fender hub to fender

Front Driver Before: 33' 19.75'
Front Driver After: 39.625' 25.875'

Front Passenger Before: 33.25' 19.25'
Front Passenger After: 40.5' 26.5'

Rear Driver Before: 35.75' 21.5'
Rear Driver After: 38.5' 24.25'

Rear Passenger Before: 35.75' 21.5'
Rear Passenger After: 38.125' 23.75'



I am going to start with removing the tophat spacer on both sides but that is just 1/2 an inch. My 155lb self standing on the bumper itself barley lowers the car at all, I am worried that the lower weight plate bumper wont do all that much either.

 

[royal T4R]

 

[riceandpho]

you sure your on the no lift setting on the 5100? seems like your on the 2nd clip setting or 3rd from the picture. no preload is all the way down.

also you are running lift springs so that might give you a higher lifted look. im no expert but you dont need both top hat spacer, i think its for driver side only, or dont run it at all.

 

[lidstrom]

Yeah I agree with what Riceandpho said. I would recommend taking off the spacers on each side and checking the clip positions on the 5100s. With it that high you will have major problems with the CV’s and alignment


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[royal T4R]

Clips are definitely on the lowest setting. I'll take the top hat spacers off shortly and come back with pics.


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[81runner]

Top hat with a longer shock AND lift spring=bad. The 5100 is considered an extended travel shock, adding the top spacer is going to cause binding at full droop. If necessary for driver side lean, only use the driver side spacer. Most important thing to check when you are done: before you lower the truck back to the ground, check your wheel spin. Straight, full left, full right. You should be able to spin your wheels.

 

[originalg00kster]

link for this 8 inch lift?? :lmao:

 

[phqduphead]

Get the diff drop kit and give the coils a few day to settle, it will come down .5-1”.


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[Mantilgh]

Wow, that’s a lot of lift for the front, and some recommend a diff drop starting with a 2” lift although it may not be necessary at that point. Looks good though!

I’m not sure the reason but I’ve read the top spacers actually raise the vehicle double the the height that they are. Unless I miss read it and they were talking about spacers that go in with the spring and not on the mount.

I’m not all that experienced and new to the forum and have been gathering info for my own 4th gen. It seems like 3” is the safe max for the front. I guess you’re supposed to go to body mount spacers after that.

I could be wrong, but that’s what I’ve typically seen when reading


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[hinmo24t]

looks aggressive for sure. the 886 are pretty beefy for no front weight v6 no?

 

[Mantilgh]

Looked for find were I saw the “double increase” for the front spacer.

Didn’t find it, but found this thread.

How thick is a 2.5" lift spacer?


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[RonJR]

Actual lift is indeed about 2x the spacer thickness. (Exact value is closer to 1.8x). That's due to the suspension geometry - the amount the wheel moves is 1.8x the amount the spring and shock move. Just a matter of the length of the lever arms. The wheel is 1.8x further out from the LCA pivot vs the shock and spring.

7-8" of lift is a lot. I'm not surprised you have CV problems. Spacers always cause potential CV problems at full droop. Get rid of those first. The OME886's are 2 inches longer than OEM plus 13% stiffer , which gives you about 5" lift at the absolute lowest Bilstein setting. That's about all your suspension linkage and CV's can handle without other special attention.

 

[blackoutt]

Yep I went down this rabbit hole and started gathering shock extended lengths here. 5100 is one of the long ones that won't accept top hat spacers before binding CV's.

Higher angle inner CV joint options for 4th gens?

 

[tay4R]

If you are still having issues, swap back in the OEM CV's. I've had issues with non-OEM binding at fool droop. OEM is the only way to go for CV's if you are going with that much lift.

 

[RonJR]

If you are still having issues, swap back in the OEM CV's. I've had issues with non-OEM binding at fool droop. OEM is the only way to go for CV's if you are going with that much lift.

True, the OEM's seem to have a bit more range than most of the aftermarket stuff. Plus, they're likely stronger as well.

 

[royal T4R]

If you are still having issues, swap back in the OEM CV's. I've had issues with non-OEM binding at fool droop. OEM is the only way to go for CV's if you are going with that much lift.

I'd have to rebuild the CVs. The driver side boot tire and the passenger side lost its grease when trying to remove it out of the housing.

looks aggressive for sure. the 886 are pretty beefy for no front weight v6 no?

I'm a V8 and the front plate bumper is going on tomorrow.


Here are pics of the clip setting. I'm sure I'm at the lowest setting unless there are 5 clips on the 5100.

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[riceandpho]

itll settled down after your bumper install.

OME-4R03F - Old Man Emu Front Coils (03-09 4Runner)



Fitment Notes:

OME front coils can only be installed with OME Nitrocharger strut and coil seats.
*Note: Lift amounts are based on average results.


as one of the guys said that ran the same combo you did, use a different shock.

also is the taper part of the coil at the top or bottom, i think the taper is the top and the rounded coil at the bottom.

if i used ome coils, i would use the 884 since i dont have the extra weight up front.
i would ditch the top hat spacer for now and see if anything changes.

 

[Fern]

I have 885's with a V8 and no bumper. 886's are for a couple extra hundred pounds hanging off the front of your 4R. You're over sprung.

 

[royal T4R]

Took off passenger side tophat spacer and a lot of the binding has gone away. Tacked up the coastal off-road front bumper but the boots still touch.

Still get a vibration at around 60mph.


I ordered this suspension set up after research on this forum and the drop down menus on YotaMafia.

It looks like I may need those 885s or a different spring all together

BEFORE PASSENGER

AFTER PASSENGER

BEFORE DRIVER

AFTER DRIVER

Before

After

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[royal T4R]

ground to fender hub to fender



Front Driver Before: 33' 19.75'

Front Driver After: 39.625' 25.875'



Front Passenger Before: 33.25' 19.25'

Front Passenger After: 40.5' 26.5'



Rear Driver Before: 35.75' 21.5'

Rear Driver After: 38.5' 24.25'



Rear Passenger Before: 35.75' 21.5'

Rear Passenger After: 38.125' 23.75'

/QUOTE]


All after numbers are after the bumper was installed and passenger tophat spacer removed.


Front Driver Before: 39.625' 25.875'
Front Driver After: 39.5' 25.5'

Front Passenger Before: 40.5' 26.5'
Front Passenger After: 38.75' 25'





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