Torn UCA bushing

[AntleredRuin]

I pulled out of the parking lot at work today and felt a crazy clunk going over some bumps. I could tell it was the driver side, so I looked under and saw this.

I've seen differing opinions on replacing the entire UCA or just the bushing. Which is best/possible?

Am I even using the proper terminology? (Ha)
What is the name for that bushing? I'm a suspension dummy.

Also, can I drive on this? I'll borrow my wife's car tomorrow, but she really needs a vehicle on Monday for an appointment. Not a far drive, maybe 8 miles total.
She works from home, so other than that, she can be homebound if need be.
No time this weekend to fix it, if I can even source the parts.

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[flipty]

Just to be more clear, this is not a UCA bushing, this is a UBJ (upper ball joint) boot.

That means it's time to replace your upper ball joint. It's really not all that hard. Several how-to's on youtube and on this forum on how to do it. The UBJ itself (which of course comes with a new boot) is not very expensive.

Will you be safe driving on it this way? I would say yes. But might as well get on the replace-train. Also check the other side, it could easily be in the same shape. The clunk is probably not even from this, but you never know.

Edit: It IS hard to replace the UBJ, but not if you've done other work on cars before. You will have to partially take the entire steering knuckle off (the big metal thing that the UBJ is attached to...the big steel thing that goes DOWN, not on the nut-side)....

Here's basically the how-to if you're interested: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p7GRR1PhwV4

 

[Unner]

I also doubt your clunk is from this. Most likely something else. I think you'll be fine to drive for awhile. Just think that most people are totally unaware of the vehichle they are driving and they don't take it in for repairs until it is disabled or something is very obviously wrong. We are more aware than the average owner. Upper ball joints don't fail catastrophically like the lowers and you still have grease in there and it looks clean. I say keep driving, but have a plan to replace sometime soon and do it when you have time. I also wouldn't say that it is an easy replacement. It will require pressing ball joint out in some manner and if you would like to replace the bushings those will need to be pressed out too. It's not a bolt on and off like the lower ball joints.

 

[AntleredRuin]

Ok UBJs then.
Thanks for the video and the quick replies, guys!
Do these NEED to be OEM (like the LBJs)?
I replaced the LBJs with OEM 20k ago.
What would your suggestions for the clunk be? It's a pretty good clatter when going over bumps. I had to take the freeway home, and no more play than usual, just the clatter.
I'll get under there and start shaking shit around, but any ideas what to look for?

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[Unner]

Clunk could be lower control arm bushings, lower control arm bolts not tight enough, sway bar bushings, sway bar end links and bushings, strut loose or bad bushing, the list is pretty long. Start shaking things and trying to diagnose it.

You don't HAVE to go OEM on uppers like you do lowers, but you might as well. Your originals made it that long and new ones are only like $30-35 a side I'm pretty sure. It's not a job you want to do twice either if a non oem part fails. Do it once and never worry about it again.

 

[AntleredRuin]

Ok, so update.
I was poking around this morning. Everything feels very tight, but that doesnt say much. A 2 ton truck puts more umph on suspension parts than I can, even with the front end lifted. I think the lower control arm bushings are shot /nonexistent. A couple other bushings are slightly cracked, but still solid.

I have a valve cover gasket leak (was next on my to-do list before this). Looks like the leak caused this gasket to swell and tear though. Steering rack?

Also (slightly unrelated), tranny mount shot?

Biggest update is that I now can't go in reverse without something binding. (Maybe this was on friday, too, but I pulled full through the parking spot; no reverse engaged since Friday morning) Forward works great, I made a few loops around the neighborhood. This says u-joints to me. I am at 170k on the originals. It binds, then give it enough gas, and it catches and lurches reverse. It's not a shifting issue; something is catching. I was watching underneath as my wife rolled forwards and back a few times, but still couldn't get the exact location. I would swear it still sounds front-end related, but that makes no sense to me (not that I'm an expert).
They feel solid to me, but that says little.
Could this be the clatter?

I'm not confident the clatter is from the driver side anymore.

BTW, this is a 2WD.

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[AntleredRuin]

Success!
So other bushings should be replaced soon, yada yada.
The culprit, though, was this:

Passenger side lower caliper bolt fell out

This would clatter the caliper against the wheel over every bump. In reverse, it'd 'grab' the wheel.
Simple enough fix, right? Take the other bolt out, go to HD and get a matching one. Hahaha if only. Lowes and HD didn't have a size match for it. The parts department of the local Toyota dealer is closed sundays. Advance auto, autozone, and napa didn't have one. I was at least able to get a size match at the local Napa.
M12x1.25 x 35mm.
Then I called an Ace Hardware a few mile away. They had a few in stock, but 45mm long. **** it. Grabbed one and a few washers.

I'll get a proper one from the dealer soon, but this'll work for now.
So 6 stops for 1 bolt. I need a drink.

I thought I said I was busy this weekend...

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[JohnOfTheJungle]

You could also cut the bolt shorter with a hacksaw...but that'll probably work fine for now


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[flipty]

Holy crap, hope you got a new bolt. Whatever that was from the hardware store is not gonna cut it for holding that caliper on in the long run.

 

[JZiggy]

That missing caliper bolt is one of the scariest 3rd-gen related thing I've seen.

Mental note: next time I have access to the caliper, reinstall bolts with medium-strength thread locking compound and torque to spec!

 

[octanejunkie]

I lost a lower caliper bolt on a work truck once after a brake job at a shop in the SFV. It was so noticeable you'd think the world was being torn apart when you stepped on the brakes at freeway speed. Needless to say I turned around and limped back to the shop.

OP, that grade 5 bolt with those washers will not fare well to the stopping force of a 5000# truck. The stock bolt is grade 9 and costs about $4, get one, stat. If you can't roll by Orchard Supply Hardware and buy a Grade 5 bolt - at least that will hold longer and you can torque it closer to spec - but get the OEM bolt.

EDIT: 91 ft lbs of torque