Calling All ECGS / Yukon Bushing Install Experts

[Crocket]

Hi guys,

so I purchased the Yukon variant of the ECGS bushing for the front diff needle bearing replacement in my 2017 4Runner. Ran into a bunch of issues along the way as most do (free tip, don't make your own bearing extraction tool......lol), but got by. I have the new Yukon bushing installed now, and dammit I must of zoned out a bit while hammering it in as it's not flush with the carrier but recessed a bit (I was using a generic Amazon driver bearing driver....of course).

So, what to do? I was able to verify with a video inspection probe (bore scope) that the back of the bushing isn't contacting anything (although it's close, maybe 2mm (.08") gap from the spider gear). I can rotate the front prop shaft by hand and don't hear anything scary happening inside. So I'm thinking maybe I'm ok? I checked to see if I could pull it out a bit using the proper ECGS/Yukon extraction tool (yes I got one after the failed DIY attempt), and unfortunately the backing nut doesn't fit behind the bushing anymore. I could try grinding down the nut a bit so it's thinner.....but obviously this option is fraught with potential issues. I'm tempted to just put it back together as is and see what's what, but thought I'd chime in here first looking for some expert opinions.

Thanks guys.

S

P.S. Bonus question: After trying unsuccessfully for an hour or so, I ended up destroying the axle oil seal trying to drive it back in to the diff housing. It was waaaaaay too tight. I've ordered two replacement seals and am wondering the best way to approach this now? I noticed quite a bit of corrosion on the inside mating face, so I lightly wet sanded it smooth. I am also debating on using a seal that has been chilled in the freezer for a few hours hoping it might make it shrink enough where I can pop it in. Any advice on re-installing stubborn axle seals would be appreciated too. Thanks again.

 

[rdruss]

If you have the correct dif seal you need a socket, or tube, pipe, etc. that fits the seal flange so you can drive it in squarely. I wouldn't worry about the bushing depth, if heat causes the bushing and spider gear to contact each other the gear will machine it's own clearance (and hopefully not destroy itself doing so!). Drain your dif lube after 100 miles or so and check for metal, if none, hooray! If there is some, well they probably have clearance now. Or call Yukon before you finish, see what they say.

 

[Crocket]

Update

So an update to my post above. Thought it would be valuable info to share should someone else find themselves in a similar situation (in all my searching online I could not find any such posts, on here or the other 4Runner and Taco forums. Guess I'm the first.....:doh.

Regarding the bushing install: All seems fine! I took a quick measurement before bolting it all back together. The front of the bushing was between 4-5mm recessed (I know, I know......I'm still kicking myself). As mentioned in my post above, it does not make contact with the spider gear behind though, having maybe 2mm or so clearance. In fact the 4Runner drives so smooth now, it also got rid of an annoying shudder/vibration around 80kph. Drives almost like it was brand new :becky:. Having said that, I'm curious to know what a perfect "zero recess" install would of yielded? I assume a tad smoother since it would have a bit better leverage on the axle. Anyway, it's still way better than what it was so I'm actually quite happy here.

Regarding the seal install: I triple attacked this one. The first attempt above was not even close to fitting and I ended up destroying the seal in the process . This time around I lightly wet sanded (with WD40) the bore that the seal press fits into (first with 150 then 400 grit sandpaper) as it was badly corroded. Next I put the seal in the freezer to hopefully make it shrink a bit and make it harder (ie. less grippy). And lastly I lubed up the interface with bearing grease. These three things, and making sure I tapped lightly and evenly, had the seal go in quite easy this time around. I was quite surprised (and relieved) to be honest.

And that's about that. I've been driving it for a few days now and no issues or leaks. Just a reminder, these aren't recommendations or steps to be followed necessarily. These are just my observations and experience on a less than perfect install. Obviously for those doing it for the first time, go slow, look at lots of YouTube videos and forum posts beforehand, take lots of measurements and if you're getting frustrated.....take a break, move on to a different task and come back with a fresh mind. I'm a good example of what happens if you don't. Having said that, should things still go sideways, it might not be the end of the world (as I had feared). The main thing is that the bushing not make contact with anything behind it. One last thing to note, my approx. measurements above should be taken with a grain of salt too as in my research it seems the diff housings can vary slightly depending on what year vehicle it's from.

Thanks for reading and good luck to those attempting this maintenance challenge in the future!

 

[Crocket]

If you have the correct dif seal you need a socket, or tube, pipe, etc. that fits the seal flange so you can drive it in squarely. I wouldn't worry about the bushing depth, if heat causes the bushing and spider gear to contact each other the gear will machine it's own clearance (and hopefully not destroy itself doing so!). Drain your dif lube after 100 miles or so and check for metal, if none, hooray! If there is some, well they probably have clearance now. Or call Yukon before you finish, see what they say.

Thanks for the feedback [MENTION=101325]rdruss[/MENTION]. Appreciate it! What ended up working great was an exhaust coupler I had laying around. Just so happens it was the perfect diameter for taping the seal in. Talk about lucky lol