TOTAL CHAOS Long Travel *Discussion* Thread

Just because
 

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1.) Marlin Crawler is working on a steering rack kit, Solo Motorsports has what might be a reworked Tundra rack that requires some fabrication to mount. With 35's the stock rack will last a while, you can always increase the reservoir capacity and throw on a cooler and that should get you pretty far with the stock rack.

2.) Not sure you need a front sway bar with a proper set of heavier coils and a sway bar in the back. Weld on a panhard correction kit if you are lifted a bunch.

3.) Your front diff is more than strong enough for 35's, if anything you should be looking at strengthening the axle shafts, though as long as you don't wheel like a crazy person the stock axle shafts should last too. Solo Motorsports, RCV, and Lotus all have upgrade options for CVs.


Inv4drZm,

Thank you for the feedback.

1) On the rack - I reached out to Solo last year and if memory serves they were offering (or getting ready to offer) a modified Tundra rack. I have read up on the Marlin Crawler rack but no response when I emailed or left them a message. FWIW no issues yet but my 4Runner is lighter than the build I was planning...

2) I have driven Jeeps on and off road with sway bars disconnected or removed and while I think a well valued setup can make up for a lot, on the highway and side hill/off camber on trails I have always felt better wheeling with a Curry antirock versus disconnected. Maybe less of an issue for an IFS rig like the 4Runner vs a Jeep?

3) I appreciate the feedback on the front differential. I was going to order the lotus shafts but after chatting with a distributor I understand they have an upgraded outer but a factory shaft and inner. Not a bad option but I would probably stick with either the factory shaft (easier to replace than a diff on the trail) or go straight to RCV’s as long as I had (or rather continue to have) faith in the clamshell differential housing up front.
 
I didn't see it posted earlier (so forgive me if I missed it), but I wanted to see if you have a list of what else is needing to be purchased to completely install LT on a 2016 4R. I have been interested in LT, but it's difficult to know everything needed in order to accomplish. Also, would I need a +2 or +3.5 kit to have 35s?
 
Question for TC

I have the King / Toytec setup KS4R10, with adjusters and HD springs.

Do I have to re-valve my Kings (remove a spacer maybe) before going LT? Is that a big deal?

2nd Question, I understand you all now have stock length lower control arms. What is the advantage of these?
 
I didn't see it posted earlier (so forgive me if I missed it), but I wanted to see if you have a list of what else is needing to be purchased to completely install LT on a 2016 4R. I have been interested in LT, but it's difficult to know everything needed in order to accomplish. Also, would I need a +2 or +3.5 kit to have 35s?

Please email us and we'll put together a complete parts list with a few recommendations. [email protected]

We've seen customers run 35s with +2" and +3.5" but additional clearance is typically required. A body mount chop and possibly fiberglass trimming would be required

TOTAL CHAOS
 
Question for TC

I have the King / Toytec setup KS4R10, with adjusters and HD springs.

Do I have to re-valve my Kings (remove a spacer maybe) before going LT? Is that a big deal?

2nd Question, I understand you all now have stock length lower control arms. What is the advantage of these?

You won't be able to run the Toytec King Setup (KS4R10) with a Long Travel System. Our LT kits require a completely different coil over shock. You, unfortunately, can't modify your existing setup

The Stock Length Control Arms is ideal for those wanting maximum strength and performance without gaining additional width. Sometimes the trails are already narrow and the additional width would cause a problem. You can also run an additional shock up front with our Expedition Series and Race Series LCAs:)
 
After 6 months of 25,000 miles, 2 trips up and down the Baja peninsula, and 2 trips back and forth across the western US, running the Total Chaos Sway Bar with the +2” Race Series Kit on my 2014 4Runner I want to share my feedback and findings:

1. Immediately after install, the truck was more enjoyable to drive on pavement. The body movement was drastically reduced and steering inputs were exceedingly quicker and firm. The truck takes far less effort to drive on long highway trips, which is even more evident in the case of a cross wind.

2. In the dirt, it’s like driving an entirely new truck. The truck is planted through corners, more predictable at speed, and instills confidence.

3. I was most impressed by the steering response. It’s common knowledge that Toyota trucks/SUVs have a tendency to push in corners at speed, in other words, understeer. However backwards it may sound, there is a severe decrease in understeer with the addition of the sway bar.

My final conclusion is that the front sway bar is worth its weight in gold. It takes an extremely capable truck and makes it exceptionally more enjoyable to drive.

TOTAL CHAOS FABRICATION
 
After 6 months of 25,000 miles, 2 trips up and down the Baja peninsula, and 2 trips back and forth across the western US, running the Total Chaos Sway Bar with the +2” Race Series Kit on my 2014 4Runner I want to share my feedback and findings:

1. Immediately after install, the truck was more enjoyable to drive on pavement. The body movement was drastically reduced and steering inputs were exceedingly quicker and firm. The truck takes far less effort to drive on long highway trips, which is even more evident in the case of a cross wind.

2. In the dirt, it’s like driving an entirely new truck. The truck is planted through corners, more predictable at speed, and instills confidence.

3. I was most impressed by the steering response. It’s common knowledge that Toyota trucks/SUVs have a tendency to push in corners at speed, in other words, understeer. However backwards it may sound, there is a severe decrease in understeer with the addition of the sway bar.

My final conclusion is that the front sway bar is worth its weight in gold. It takes an extremely capable truck and makes it exceptionally more enjoyable to drive.

TOTAL CHAOS FABRICATION

We really appreciate the feedback. It's great to hear how much the sway bar has improved your driving experience. Thanks for posting up!

TOTAL CHAOS
TOTAL CHAOS FABRICATION
 
We really appreciate the feedback. It's great to hear how much the sway bar has improved your driving experience. Thanks for posting up!

TOTAL CHAOS
TOTAL CHAOS FABRICATION

Apparently adding a normal sway bar doesn't work on a KDSS frame truck.....I'm sure its doable though with some fabricating. I wonder if you guys know of anyone who ditched the front kdss but left the rear attached? And how that works or if it even does?

Eventual goal is the +2 kit. at which point kdss specific LT kit isn't something i care about. Seems like hudson loves the traditional style paired with his LT kit....or torsion style sway bar setup would be fun:guitar2:
 
Apparently adding a normal sway bar doesn't work on a KDSS frame truck.....I'm sure its doable though with some fabricating. I wonder if you guys know of anyone who ditched the front kdss but left the rear attached? And how that works or if it even does?

Eventual goal is the +2 kit. at which point kdss specific LT kit isn't something i care about. Seems like hudson loves the traditional style paired with his LT kit....or torsion style sway bar setup would be fun:guitar2:

Some customers do maintain the rear sway bar and pull the front

You don't have to pull both :)
 


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Failure of the tie rods

Do you have a beefed up tie rod to go with the long travel setup? My friends running long travel suffer from CV boot failures and tie rods bending. How should we address the CV boot failures? Do you have an upgrade kit for the CV boots?
 
Do you have a beefed up tie rod to go with the long travel setup? My friends running long travel suffer from CV boot failures and tie rods bending. How should we address the CV boot failures? Do you have an upgrade kit for the CV boots?

We don't offer a beefed up tie rod, only the tie rod extensions. We've found that the OEM tie rods last the longest and hold up the best. Anything stronger and the steering rack becomes the weak link.

We've noticed similar results with CV boots, OEM is one of the best options. The Napa, Autozone, Oreilly, etc. options just don't hold up. RCV makes upgraded axles and boots but they come with a hefty price tag.

TOTAL CHAOS
TOTAL CHAOS FABRICATION
 

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