Total Information

[Hebrew Hammer]

so I am new to this forum and as i see there are tons of builds, and even more threads than I can count.(between two jobs and family lol)

I have tons of questions which will be asked in due time or answered by having enough time to read through the massive amount of data on here.

here it goes

1.) I'm in need of new fuel pump and injectors i believe. when i start up it uses about 2-3 miles per start up. i've got an 05 v6 sr5 4x4 at 154,xxx. i stay in the h2 simply for gas and don't need 4 quite yet on streets of Houston(until the zombies come) so i'm wondering what is the best route to take. do i replace it with stock or aftermarket? if so where is pump located? is it better to just clean injectors or replace them? again stock or aftermarket?

2.) needing new braking pads and thinking of just starting fresh with rotors also. i live in houston so there is a lot of stop and go traffic but when i travel home(mountains of nc) i do take it off the asphalt.
suggestions?


3.) like a lot of other enthusiast, i want to lift and also change suspension to individual suspension. suggestions on all that


thanks again and feel free to drop links to other threads or quoting. either way helping me out greatly.


rock stead- roll ready

 

[NuclearN8]

[MENTION=119771]Hebrew Hammer[/MENTION] yakshemaaaaaaash and welcome!

1) what makes you think your fuel pump/ injectors are faulty? do you have codes/ CEL on, or obd2 hooked up to watch parameters on startup? My point here is I don't think there is a way to judge by sitting in the driverseat looking at the gauges how much fuel your truck uses on startup, your eyes are not that calibrated.

2) brakes are subjective to everyone but in general it just sounds like you'd be fine with some new pads, everyone has their preference in this regard. However, Lots of people replace the flexible lines with Stainless steel for firmer pedal feel (if you want that, you can do this). You can overhaul your calipers if you have the time for not a lot of money (to prevent a frozen caliper that seems to pop up from time to time on this Gen 4Runner, see this thread, http://www.toyota-4runner.org/maint...front-brake-caliper-rebuild-stuck-piston.html ). If the rotors aren't warped that's up to you if you have the money.... the ideal time for new rotors is when you do new pads as they'll burn in/ seat together...

3) Suspension can lead to a lot of other expenses... bilstein 5100's and some FJ or moog springs would be your best value most likely and give you an inch or so lift and level you out if you're looking for that (see the sticky on this topic)

Other items to consider on your Runner all of have DIY's on this forum just google it and it'll bring you back (search feature isn't the best on the forum)
Complete all your preventative maintenance (if not done so already at your mileage)
- differentials, transfer case fluids
- replace your pcv
- replace your serpentine belt
- replace your spark plugs
- run a fuel system cleaner through a full tank of gas, like Techron
- lube your driveshaft zerks
- flush your power steering fluid
- engine oil and filter
- coolant flush with new upper and lower hoses
- flush your tranny fluid (and if I lived in Texas I would add an aux tranny cooler to keep the temps in check, think B&M 70255, 70264, 70268 supercooler series.)
-replace your sway bar bushing to poly gresable ones
- replace your rear endlinks with poly

I'm sure there are other things that others will chime in with as well. hope this helps and good luck.

 

[TOY2G]

when i start up it uses about 2-3 miles per start up.

i want to lift and also change suspension to individual suspension. suggestions on all that

feel free to drop links to other threads or quoting

rock stead- roll ready

Just WHAT......

You start it and it uses 2-3 miles......????

Suggestions on suspension....given your don't use 4x4 and you want fuel mileage. I say stock.

Search function is on top of the page leading to thousands of build threads and product opinions.

 

[Hebrew Hammer]

Just WHAT......

You start it and it uses 2-3 miles......????

Suggestions on suspension....given your don't use 4x4 and you want fuel mileage. I say stock.

Search function is on top of the page leading to thousands of build threads and product opinions.

Yeah when it turns over it'll use 2-3 mph right then. For instance it's at 135till empty when I shut it off, next morning it starts but is at 132-133 every time.

 

[t-man]

Yeah when it turns over it'll use 2-3 mph right then. For instance it's at 135till empty when I shut it off, next morning it starts but is at 132-133 every time.

Don't look at that computer screen thingy. It is never right, and when you first start it is trying to calibrate itself. When mine says I have 0 miles left I can go 40 more miles minimum.

 

[Hebrew Hammer]

Don't look at that computer screen thingy. It is never right, and when you first start it is trying to calibrate itself. When mine says I have 0 miles left I can go 40 more miles minimum.

How do I calibrate it?

 

[Martinjmpr]

How do I calibrate it?

You don't. You ignore it. Seriously, we call that thing the "lie-o-meter" for a reason. :

If you really need calibrated fuel data or real time MPG get a Scangauge II or similar OBD-II reader. I use the SGII because I can also monitor transmission temperature (important to me because I do a lot of towing.)

Another nice thing about SG and similar tools is that if your engine throws a code you can find out what it is right away and you can usually reset the code as well (i.e. turn off the CEL.)

 

[BlackWorksInc]

How do I calibrate it?

You can't, at best its a good guideline to go by; but its often more optimistic than anything else.

 

[Hebrew Hammer]

You don't. You ignore it. Seriously, we call that thing the "lie-o-meter" for a reason. :

If you really need calibrated fuel data or real time MPG get a Scangauge II or similar OBD-II reader. I use the SGII because I can also monitor transmission temperature (important to me because I do a lot of towing.)

Another nice thing about SG and similar tools is that if your engine throws a code you can find out what it is right away and you can usually reset the code as well (i.e. turn off the CEL.)

Okay so how do I get an sg2 and such and how much it cost

 

[wadle5]

Okay so how do I get an sg2 and such and how much it cost

I recommend this as a cheaper and larger version of the sg
UltraGauge OBDII Scan tool & Information Center

 

[AZ4]

-replace your sway bar bushing to poly gresable ones
- replace your rear endlinks with poly

When I installed my suspension, my rear endlinks seemed beat up. I'd like to do this. Is this preventative maintenance, or do the poly bushings improve handling somehow? Have a link to parts or a thread?

 

[NuclearN8]

When I installed my suspension, my rear endlinks seemed beat up. I'd like to do this. Is this preventative maintenance, or do the poly bushings improve handling somehow? Have a link to parts or a thread?

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/34115-swaybar-bushing-upgrade.html
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/137840-need-end-links-new-lift-sway-bars.html
Extended rear sway bar links install - Toyota 120 Platforms Forum
Prothane Greaseable Sway Bar Bushings - Free Shipping on All Orders @ JEGS

just search dude... lots of links on all the 4runner forums... theres a guy that sells homemade ones in the classified section as well... pricy but nice. you can make your own set also with heim joints from mcmaster carr for about $60...
Custom(ish) Extended Rear Sway Bar Links Write-up - Page 3 - Toyota 120 Platforms Forum

I also have a set in my basement I'm not using... When I made the ones for my 4Runner I had enough materials I also made a set for my wife's 4Runner in case I ever lift it but that seems doubtful before she gets bored with it and wants a new ride.. so if you want these, PM me and they'll cost you what the parts cost me... these are the heim enlinks as linus describes in the link above on 120...

 

[Martinjmpr]

I recommend this as a cheaper and larger version of the sg
UltraGauge OBDII Scan tool & Information Center

I've posted this before but I may be the only one here who uses both so I can speak with some experience about the difference between the SG and the UG.

FWIW, my DD Mazda B2300 has the UG in it, and before I got that, I had it in my previous DD which was a 1997 Protégé sedan. It should be mentioned that both Mazdas were manual transmission models.

The UG is cheaper, and it's easier to read because it has a bigger display. It's easier to calibrate and it can be calibrated more precisely. The "fillup drill" (that is, the sequence of events you have to do when filling your tank to maintain accurate information) is a little more complex on the UG than it is on the SG.

The SG is smaller and easier to mount because the cable detaches from the back whereas on the UG the cable is permanently attached to the display unit and cannot be separated.

The SG allows you to choose what color you want, whereas with the UG, it comes in any display color you like as long as you like blue.

The Biggest difference between the SG and UG in terms of what they show is that the SGII can be programmed to show TFT - Transmission Fluid Temperature, and the UG Cannot.

Since I pull a trailer with my T4R quite a few miles (over 10,000 miles last year alone) and since I cross a lot of mountain ranges, it's important for me to monitor the transmission temp. That's the main reason I use the SGII on the 4runner.

So, to the OP, yes, you can certainly get the info you need on things like Distance to Empty with an Ultragauge, if you need or want to monitor transmission temps you will need the SGII.