Bluesky 07
Senior Member
This article by people who tow a travel trailer with their 4th Gen V6 is a good read.
Towing with an Old 4th Gen?
- Thread starter woodman60
- Start date
ArthurKotb
Member
Hopefully you got the towing package. Among other things, it has the connector for the brake controller hidden behind the driver's kick panel. Get the Tekonsha brake controller (I have the P3) and it's just plug 'n play. Fully integrated into your 7-pin umbilical plug.
The package has the needed frame hitch, tranny cooler, larger alternator etc. I use an Equalizer weight distributing hitch, which does a very nice job of leveling and distributing the weight.
You can always get your T4R modified if you want to go bigger. Here's a link to a guy's 2011 V6 Sienna that tows a 28' Airstream International
The Toadmobile - THE TOADS OF TOWED HAUL
He's an interesting fellow with a lot of information about his rig on the site
Here's a pic from his site that leads to more pics.
Galleries - THE TOADS OF TOWED HAUL
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TheDailyDownshift
New member
I tow with my V6 2WD just fine.
I'm not sure exactly what this home-built trailer weight, but being all heavy steel I'm sure it's at least 2,000lb, and the Corolla on top of it is another 2,200. Add in an interior packed full of tools, spare parts, and camping supplies and you have a VERY loaded-down vehicle. However the V6 handles it just fine. I leave it in 4th and have to get a running start to go up some hills but overall it's just fine and it still gets 14mpg while hauling. All the mods I have done are to make it a better towing/camping vehicle.
Frame-mounted hitch
Trailer brake controller
Transmission cooler
AirLift rear helper airbags
Bilstein 4600 shocks
Goodridge stainless brake lines
Motul RBF600 brake fluid
PowerStop Z76 heavy-duty brake pads
Limited model "13WH" front brake conversion
CSF aluminum radiator
I'm not sure exactly what this home-built trailer weight, but being all heavy steel I'm sure it's at least 2,000lb, and the Corolla on top of it is another 2,200. Add in an interior packed full of tools, spare parts, and camping supplies and you have a VERY loaded-down vehicle. However the V6 handles it just fine. I leave it in 4th and have to get a running start to go up some hills but overall it's just fine and it still gets 14mpg while hauling. All the mods I have done are to make it a better towing/camping vehicle.
Frame-mounted hitch
Trailer brake controller
Transmission cooler
AirLift rear helper airbags
Bilstein 4600 shocks
Goodridge stainless brake lines
Motul RBF600 brake fluid
PowerStop Z76 heavy-duty brake pads
Limited model "13WH" front brake conversion
CSF aluminum radiator
WillisSauce
New member
The average weight of a tear drop trailer is varies quite a bit from 500 to 3200lbs.
If it’s closer to 3200 and at least over 1500lbs, , I’d definitely invest in a transmission cooler first if it’s a v6, then Airbags to help with MPG. Airbags helped me tremendously with stability and MPG. My 2wd v8 can can get up to 17mpg towing my 1850lbs dual axle trail without anything on it, and that includes going over big mountain passes. Loaded up between 4000 and 5000 lbs it’s more like 12 to 14mpg
The trans cooler will help give you peace of mind when you are going up big passes in summer driving conditions. Keeping up on the trans maintenance and following a severe duty maintenance schedule depending on how many miles and trips you are taking a year. Also make sure the cooling system is up to par.
This is the most I ever towed with my truck, as we made a big move in 2020. Towed in 100 plus degree weather over 150 miles. The 3600lbs Lexus was loaded up with personal belongings as well as the truck, on top of the 1850lbs car hauler. Probably just over 10,000 in gross vehicle weight and payload. You can see the rear squat is almost none existent with the air bags!
If it’s closer to 3200 and at least over 1500lbs, , I’d definitely invest in a transmission cooler first if it’s a v6, then Airbags to help with MPG. Airbags helped me tremendously with stability and MPG. My 2wd v8 can can get up to 17mpg towing my 1850lbs dual axle trail without anything on it, and that includes going over big mountain passes. Loaded up between 4000 and 5000 lbs it’s more like 12 to 14mpg
The trans cooler will help give you peace of mind when you are going up big passes in summer driving conditions. Keeping up on the trans maintenance and following a severe duty maintenance schedule depending on how many miles and trips you are taking a year. Also make sure the cooling system is up to par.
This is the most I ever towed with my truck, as we made a big move in 2020. Towed in 100 plus degree weather over 150 miles. The 3600lbs Lexus was loaded up with personal belongings as well as the truck, on top of the 1850lbs car hauler. Probably just over 10,000 in gross vehicle weight and payload. You can see the rear squat is almost none existent with the air bags!
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Drcoffee
Senior Member
To add to willissauce said, for stability, consider using polyurethane bushing on the Panhard bar. That will keep the rear of the truck more stable while controlling the heavy load behind. That was one of my pet peeves having the ass end of the truck feel like the tires were flat and one of my first mods.
Kept may Daystar rear lift in mine and took out the front.
I tow a 13 foot 2k lb trailer full time with my 2005 v6.
I have a $100 brake controller and new radiator and fluid swap before I did anything.
I will go back to 265 65 17 tires next time because I lost torque at 55mph in 5th gear and it seems to hunt in headwinds or slight hills.
18mpg in the Rockies, and average 14 or 15 in the plains and east coast.
I tow a 13 foot 2k lb trailer full time with my 2005 v6.
I have a $100 brake controller and new radiator and fluid swap before I did anything.
I will go back to 265 65 17 tires next time because I lost torque at 55mph in 5th gear and it seems to hunt in headwinds or slight hills.
18mpg in the Rockies, and average 14 or 15 in the plains and east coast.
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RBLACAUSA
Member
Question about towing with a lift
Hopefully not too late to ask for advice in this thread vs starting a new one.
Vehicle is 2004 4Runner SE V8 4WD and it has the OEM heavy-duty hitch. I'm original owner.
Currently has an Icon lift. I had the Icon Overland 2-stage rear springs but replaced them with the less-stiff Icon 2" rear springs. I want to buy a Casita trailer.
My question is, for towing, would I be better off to go back to the Icon OVerland springs for their higher capacity, to offset the tongue weight, or keep my Icon "regular" 2" rear springs and add airbags?
Also, please recommend me a brake controller. An '06 4Runner V8 2WD that I also own, bought used, had one installed by prior owner, but I removed it. Has brake controller technology changed much the past 15 yrs to where I shouldn't consider just using that one?
TIY for any advice offered.
Hopefully not too late to ask for advice in this thread vs starting a new one.
Vehicle is 2004 4Runner SE V8 4WD and it has the OEM heavy-duty hitch. I'm original owner.
Currently has an Icon lift. I had the Icon Overland 2-stage rear springs but replaced them with the less-stiff Icon 2" rear springs. I want to buy a Casita trailer.
My question is, for towing, would I be better off to go back to the Icon OVerland springs for their higher capacity, to offset the tongue weight, or keep my Icon "regular" 2" rear springs and add airbags?
Also, please recommend me a brake controller. An '06 4Runner V8 2WD that I also own, bought used, had one installed by prior owner, but I removed it. Has brake controller technology changed much the past 15 yrs to where I shouldn't consider just using that one?
TIY for any advice offered.
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ArthurKotb
Member
I pull a 6500 lb. Airstream and the 4Runner handles well. I still have the X-REAS shocks which are great for handling. Air bags do nothing for you in the way of support. You don't say what the size/weight of the Casista is. I use an Equalizer weight distributing, anti-sway hitch. It keeps my rig level. In the driver's kick panel there should be a connector for the brake controller (since you have the OEM frame hitch I assume you got the towing package). I use a Tekonsha Prodigy P2. Check their website if you're looking for something more current.
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Lots of great info in this thread. I figured I would bump it back up rather than to start a new one.
I just finished my first major tow in a 2006 Ltd V8, 126K. I'm pulling a 19' Passport Ultra Lite that's 3840 lbs dry. Mileage was not great going up to the mountains, ~8-9 MPG, but I wasn't going in with high expectations. My transmission temps were way high, so I've already ordered a Hayden 698 to install this weekend and will be replacing my transmission fluid as a precaution. The factory one doesn't seem to perform very well, at least for me with these factors.
Ive got a few questions for other folks that tow mid to heavy trailers:
For anyone using a WDH, are you having to raise up the tongue really high to get the sway bars connected? In my case, I'm having to lift the car up pretty high when connected to the hitch ball just to wrestle them in place. The previous owner installed oversized tires (32.6" - Destination AT P65/70R18) and didn't modify the suspension. Is it possible this is part of the issue? I don't love the tires - noisy and they rub the wheel well.
Should I be changing these, or doing something else to get this to be a more tow-ready ride. I've got a break controller and the Equalizer anti sway. I believe my Xras is still working so I'm not if I'll benefit from bags - I've seen comments that with the WDH they won't help much, but I'm open to advice.
Are there any other suggestions for easy items, short of upgrading my suspension so I don't run this thing into the ground?
I just finished my first major tow in a 2006 Ltd V8, 126K. I'm pulling a 19' Passport Ultra Lite that's 3840 lbs dry. Mileage was not great going up to the mountains, ~8-9 MPG, but I wasn't going in with high expectations. My transmission temps were way high, so I've already ordered a Hayden 698 to install this weekend and will be replacing my transmission fluid as a precaution. The factory one doesn't seem to perform very well, at least for me with these factors.
Ive got a few questions for other folks that tow mid to heavy trailers:
For anyone using a WDH, are you having to raise up the tongue really high to get the sway bars connected? In my case, I'm having to lift the car up pretty high when connected to the hitch ball just to wrestle them in place. The previous owner installed oversized tires (32.6" - Destination AT P65/70R18) and didn't modify the suspension. Is it possible this is part of the issue? I don't love the tires - noisy and they rub the wheel well.
Should I be changing these, or doing something else to get this to be a more tow-ready ride. I've got a break controller and the Equalizer anti sway. I believe my Xras is still working so I'm not if I'll benefit from bags - I've seen comments that with the WDH they won't help much, but I'm open to advice.
Are there any other suggestions for easy items, short of upgrading my suspension so I don't run this thing into the ground?
Casita is relatively light, you'll be fine. A brake controller is fine even if a basic model. It takes a minute to find the correct plug under the left kick panel, but they just plug in and also have a ground wire. The brake controller makes a huge difference even on flat slow stops. No trailer clunk or push. Use whatever springs you want but nose up hauling might make steering light.
ArthurKotb
Member
I pull a 23' Airstream. I get 9-11 mpg, depending on if there is a headwind or tailwind. I'm very pleased with the way it handles.
My trans temp warning light has never come on
I have original size P265/65R17. I do have to raise the rear end up high to connect to the Equalizer L brackets but I can get it high enough to just slide them on. When you have everything connected, road ready, is it level or is the trailer nose up? It's important to be level. Maybe your Equalizer ball is too high off the ground???
I have the original X-REAS shocks; no leaks and control is very good. Bags do not increase your bumper or towing capacity. They will level the rig but if you use the instructions in your Equalizer owner's manual, you can level it that way.
I have not altered my suspension in any way. It's possible the tires are causing your problems. SUVs are already top heavy and you have better control when you're closer to the ground; lower center of gravity.
Do you have the manual? I can attach a pdf if you need it.
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Mine did not, but I was pulling temps as high as 250 using the Car Scanner app. That being said, I just pulled all the service records and I saw that the previous owner replaced the radiator with an aftermarket "performance" one, and I'm wondering if that didn't have some impact on the efficacy of the ATF cooler or something got messed up in the install
I'm level - I went through hours of adjusting and tweaking this to get it to where it is. My tires have 8 years/50k on them and I hate the road noise so I'm planning to change them to the smaller size, then I'll redo the setup.
What's the weight on the Airstream? Beautiful trailer.
Thank you for all the feedback.
ArthurKotb
Member
From a lifetime ago I learned the last thing fixed is the first thing broken. Meaning, always suspect the last repair/modification that was done to anything to be a prime suspect for any problems. I found that the normal operating temp of a T4R transmission is 175-220, but 190 is optimal. Over 200 it's getting hot and at 220 you need to stop and cool down. Over 240 and you've damaged it. The article didn't say what year this was for or which engine, transmission.
I don't have a scanner. I had a very small leak in the transfer case in 2017. My trusty, Toyota certified local repair shop said it would take a long time to drop the oil level. I waited until 2019 and told him to fix it. Other than that I've never experienced any transmission issues.
The AS is about 6,500 lbs. when it's loaded. the unloaded tongue weight is 730. It rides very nicely, very good in the turns. Original X-REAS shocks still holding steady. I've been 4900 miles to Oregon and back, Dumfries, VA 1K miles, and down to FL, LA, MS, AR, TX; no problems.
My oldest son has a 2006 SE V8. I think he's around 178K now. He has the exhaust header noise that is loud for a couple miles, then stops. He has a rust spot in rear hatch. He pulls a 2600 lb. boat with his. We exchange issues and concerns but they have both been good tow vehicles.
BTW, 6 years is considered the life of trailer tires. It's because they sit so long before being moved. I've read about a lot of old tires disintegrating on trailers and causing thousands of dollars of damage.
I don't have a scanner. I had a very small leak in the transfer case in 2017. My trusty, Toyota certified local repair shop said it would take a long time to drop the oil level. I waited until 2019 and told him to fix it. Other than that I've never experienced any transmission issues.
The AS is about 6,500 lbs. when it's loaded. the unloaded tongue weight is 730. It rides very nicely, very good in the turns. Original X-REAS shocks still holding steady. I've been 4900 miles to Oregon and back, Dumfries, VA 1K miles, and down to FL, LA, MS, AR, TX; no problems.
My oldest son has a 2006 SE V8. I think he's around 178K now. He has the exhaust header noise that is loud for a couple miles, then stops. He has a rust spot in rear hatch. He pulls a 2600 lb. boat with his. We exchange issues and concerns but they have both been good tow vehicles.
BTW, 6 years is considered the life of trailer tires. It's because they sit so long before being moved. I've read about a lot of old tires disintegrating on trailers and causing thousands of dollars of damage.
I brought my ride in for a checkup and to see if the transmission fluid needed to be changed and just a general checkup prior to my next tow. It's a reputable shop but I still left with a list of items that needed attention. Lower control arms, wheel bearing, and sadly, the xreas is failing.
Now I'm looking at an "opportunity" to get the suspension updated. Does anyone have thoughts on what I should be installing? The likely choice is the Bilstein 5100s, and that's what they priced. Full quote for all the work is $4,100...tough to swallow so I'm looking to make the most of the labor. May piece it out so lessen the blow.
Any better option that the 5100's that may improve the towing ride when towing?
Now I'm looking at an "opportunity" to get the suspension updated. Does anyone have thoughts on what I should be installing? The likely choice is the Bilstein 5100s, and that's what they priced. Full quote for all the work is $4,100...tough to swallow so I'm looking to make the most of the labor. May piece it out so lessen the blow.
Any better option that the 5100's that may improve the towing ride when towing?
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