4RUNNERTMAN
New member
Great work here DustyRoads ( The American Dream for those who remember!) Also have this thread Bookmarked!
Toyota 3.4l V6 head gasket, timing belt, water pump Comprehensive Parts List
- Thread starter DustyRoads
- Start date
BrianSD_42
New member
New heads. Aftermarket JE.
I don't consider it a rebuild since just the top was touched.
DustyRoads
New member
I'm fully ready to tackle that if it needs to be done to freshen up the truck. Do you think new is the only/best option for replacing cracked heads? Or do you think junkyard/reman is an ok option. Like previously statedm, longevity and stoutness is the goal here. I don't want to rip this thing open again for at least 50-100k miles if i can do it right the first time.
DustyRoads
New member
Just called the shop. Leak down test only. Coolant flowing into cyl 3. Middle cylinders are typically at most risk for cracking the heads... bummer.
Was suggested to look at remanned toyoted heads (by local Yota shop) instead of new casting heads which might be a cheaper product to start with. This is if the heads are needed once torn down. They suggested Silver Head International and maybe ATK.
Any suggestions if i need to source new heads? Obviously a motor might be in the works if it's pretty bad but i'd like to weigh all the options for least invasive to most invasive and take the best route overall.
DustyRoads
New member
Man, this forum has so many great people and so much info. Glad to be able to put up something useful as a relative noob. :clap2:
Ol'Blue
New member
I'm starting my parts list now for this job. What is the General Take on Beck and Arn. I know I would use them but has anyone else or is it just best to just get the OE Gaskets? Is there a number to a OE Head Gasket kit from Amazon with true Toyota Parts? I'm still looking at possibly injectors also....
Blue
Blue
azcat90
New member
DustyRoads
New member
I'm using that video as one of my references! Such a great thing to have put that vid up for the community. Hopefully with that video series and the parts list constructed here in this thread, a lot of people will be successfully repairing these 3rd gens and keeping them on the road.
I'm all the way in to the timing pulley removal and i can't break the bolts loose. My buddy is coming down to help out with the job in about 10 days and he has the pulley holder tool. I'd like to keep the progress up though in the meantime. Any tips on stuck timing pulley bolts?
azcat90
New member
Cam shaft pulley or Crank?
Last edited:
DustyRoads
New member
Sorry my terms are shaky. I'm at the top two pulleys for the timing belt. Cam shafts.
azcat90
New member
Very beginning of part 2 video...
Last edited:
DustyRoads
New member
Tried it that way. Could not get the 10mm socket to stay in place stable enough to break the bolt loose. 24" breaker bar to the frame rail to keep engine from spinning? I've heard you can slip a belt if things are bound up... How critical is it if i slip a belt tooth in the removal process? Can i adjust everything to TDC upon the reassembly and be ok if that happens?
Last edited:
azcat90
New member
Should be - as long as the marks on the crank timing pulley and the cam pulleys are lining up with the replacement belt marks when you install it you're good I believe.
DustyRoads
New member
Thanks for that! Having answers to some of these questions before the problem arises will help save me from having a heart attack should i encounter some difficulty. Any tips on the cam pulley bolts besides using the inner timing cover bolts as a pulley stop?
azcat90
New member
Not from me - my goal was to change the cam front oil seals when I changed the TB but I could not get them off either so I gave up. I did not know about these videos at the time. Maybe if you used the exact same wrench worsethanchiggers used on the 10MM?
My timing belt was pretty tight so i held the crankshaft bold in place to prevent the cams from spinning while removing the cam bolts
DustyRoads
New member
Good idea. I only had a fat deep impact 10mm and a regular 10mm socket with a small extension. I really don't want to round off or damaging the heads on the rear timing cover bolts when attempting this and i can see that as a possibility already.
I put a socket with a 24" breaker on the frame to brace the crank bolt. Tried to turn the cam bolt with my socket and a cheater bar. I heard a crack but i'm not sure if it's slipping belt teeth or breaking the bolt loose. I need to go check the reference marks when i get back to it to try to find out which is the case. Or it might have been the ratchet breaking... I only had one breaker handy. The saga continues. I don't want to hurt anything with unneeded cranking on the bolt and I'm unfamiliar with how much force it should take to break it loose.
I might have to wait out the pulleys until my friend gets around with the proper tools and experience with the 3.4l. He just did his last winter and I think he's done a few. I could probably get intake and maybe exhaust all ready to go until then. Plenty of time for PB blasting exhaust nuts over a weeks time or so. Torch, vice grips, and chisel handy just in case.
azcat90
New member
TheDurk
Elite Member
One comment on the parts listing. I believe that Toyota includes the gasket with the water pump, so if you buy the pump AND the gasket separately, you might end up with two gaskets. The last Toyota pump I bought was a few years ago, so my memory may be deceiving me on this. Can anyone confirm one way or the other?
DustyRoads
New member
I'll make a note in the OP. Thanks for mentioning that.
Similar threads
