Toytec BOSS Lift

Sickoreo

New member
Please keep in mind that I am still learning about vehicles in general and am willing to learn but I am not understand some things.

Quick specs: 07' T4R, SR5, 2WD. No body lift (not planning on doing one).

So I am nearing to purchase the Toytec Boss lift for my T4R. And as I am nearing to the purchase point I am finding that I am asking myself more and more questions. The questions that are sticking out most in my mind are

1. is this kit all inclusive? Meaning does it come with all parts needed for the lift? I would thinks so but I can't seem to find a definitive answer.

2. Are there any parts that you, the people of the forum, would suggest to buy to add in while building, like different control arms, drop down sway brackets...anything that you wish you would have done when you installed the lift.

3. And only partially related to the lift, I want to put 275/70R17 on my vehicle and based off this Sticky doing 3'' in the front & 2'' in the back will allow this. However it also states that at 3'' other issues may begin to arise. So is it worth install additional parts to get 275's to fit and not cause any additional stress on the vehicle.

Thanks and ton in advance!:thumb:
 
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1. I don't own it but I believe yes, that kit has everything you need. As for things you might want but don't need, see 2.

2. 3" of lift will leave you with very little caster after an alignment; this can make the truck feel "darty" and less stable / respond more to road imperfections, but some people don't even notice the difference. (I sure did though!) Aftermarket upper control arms typically have a few extra degrees of caster built in to help you get steering stability back. Also, you may want longer rear brake lines or longer swaybar end links. Not necessary, but they both help make sure nothing gets pulled too far (particularly when articulating offroad). A differential drop will reduce your CV angles, but the general consensus around here seems to be "ehh, the angles aren't too bad"; your call.

3. "other issues may begin to arise" isn't referencing tire size, it's referencing lift height; see 2 above for recommended extras. 275s won't need any other parts installed to fit, but you will probably have to trim your fenders and remove the front mud flaps (although I don't think you'll need to chop your body mounts).

Hope that helps!
 
1. is this kit all inclusive? Meaning does it come with all parts needed for the lift? I would thinks so but I can't seem to find a definitive answer.

Toytec's kits are usually all inclusive. There shouldn't be anything else that you'll need to do the install as all you'll need are the pair of CO's and sway drop brackets.

2. Are there any parts that you, the people of the forum, would suggest to buy to add in while building, like different control arms, drop down sway brackets...anything that you wish you would have done when you installed the lift.

Results may vary, but UCA may be beneficial if you go to get your truck aligned and they can't get your caster back close to specs. Even if they do get it close your truck may become "darty" on the highway as mrpurplepenguin explained. I had these symptoms from the get-go in my early days of the spacer lift. Other parts like the sway drop brackets usually come with the kit and are pictured with the shocks on their website.

3. And only partially related to the lift, I want to put 275/70R17 on my vehicle and based off this Sticky doing 3'' in the front & 2'' in the back will allow this. However it also states that at 3'' other issues may begin to arise. So is it worth install additional parts to get 275's to fit and not cause any additional stress on the vehicle.

These tires should fit OK according to the guide. Mudflaps may need to come off and also a possible body mount chop. This is all dependent sometimes on the tire brand and model. I know with my 285's there is no way they would fit without the Spidertrax spacers on the stock wheels or without the bodymount chopped.
 
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so toytec offers lightracing uca's i would say pass on those and get some builtright uniball arms for a little more. that is the only thing i regret about it
 
Please keep in mind that I am still learning about vehicles in general and am willing to learn but I am not understand some things.

Quick specs: 07' T4R, SR5, 2WD. No body lift (not planning on doing one).

So I am nearing to purchase the Toytec Boss lift for my T4R. And as I am nearing to the purchase point I am finding that I am asking myself more and more questions. The questions that are sticking out most in my mind are

1. is this kit all inclusive? Meaning does it come with all parts needed for the lift? I would thinks so but I can't seem to find a definitive answer.

2. Are there any parts that you, the people of the forum, would suggest to buy to add in while building, like different control arms, drop down sway brackets...anything that you wish you would have done when you installed the lift.

3. And only partially related to the lift, I want to put 275/70R17 on my vehicle and based off this Sticky doing 3'' in the front & 2'' in the back will allow this. However it also states that at 3'' other issues may begin to arise. So is it worth install additional parts to get 275's to fit and not cause any additional stress on the vehicle.

Thanks and ton in advance!:thumb:

I just ordered/installed the base Toytec lift kit (the $900 one), but I think I can still confidently answer these questions.

1. Yes it should come with everything. My $900 lift kit came with the front coilovers, the rear shocks, the rear springs, and a diff drop kit. The front coilovers have new bolts built in (pretty obvious), and new nuts for the tops of them. The rear shocks are similar. They have fresh rubber spacers and nuts for the install. Some 4runners have bump stops in the rear springs, and if you pull your old ones out and they are there, you should reuse them with the new ToyTec ones.

2. So I don't know about everyone else, but I knew I wasn't going to be doing anything too krazy with my build, so I decided against new UCAs since I didn't really feel like spending the cash and I figured I could do it later if I needed to. My kit came with a diff drop, and since I am a broke college student and I need this car to last me as long as possible, I figured better CV angles would be nice. I also got a free sway bar relocation kit from a friend and installed it as well, for pretty similar reasons as the diff drop. I wasn't crazy about how close the sway bar was getting to the rest of the coilover and everything around it, but the relocation kit puts my mind at ease. Again, I have done things a lot of people probably wouldn't do, but then again I am being more cautious than needed.

3. I also put 275/70R17 tires on my car. Some BFG KO2s. There was a bit of rubbing. I had to cut about 1/3 of the stock mudflaps and a bit more of the inner wheel well fender liner thingy. I had to cut more of the drivers side than the passengers side. On the passengers side, there was almost no rubbing except for when flexing a bit, so I trimmed a small amount.

Let me know if I can help with anything else.
 
I have the boss lift and yes it comes with everything. No you don't need anything else with it like control arms. Don't get the Hd rear springs unless you plan on an off-road rear bumper cause it's stiff in the back. I have 285's so the wider tires make me feel more balanced on the road so I don't feel like I need anything else. Any other questions feel free to ask
 
It seems as though the general concensis is that the kit comes with all parts needed. UCA's are suggested by some but not necessary.

I have the boss lift and yes it comes with everything. No you don't need anything else with it like control arms.

2. So I don't know about everyone else, but I knew I wasn't going to be doing anything too krazy with my build, so I decided against new UCAs since I didn't really feel like spending the cash and I figured I could do it later if I needed to. My kit came with a diff drop, and since I am a broke college student and I need this car to last me as long as possible, I figured better CV angles would be nice. I also got a free sway bar relocation kit from a friend and installed it as well, for pretty similar reasons as the diff drop. I wasn't crazy about how close the sway bar was getting to the rest of the coilover and everything around it, but the relocation kit puts my mind at ease. Again, I have done things a lot of people probably wouldn't do, but then again I am being more cautious than needed.

3. I also put 275/70R17 tires on my car. Some BFG KO2s. There was a bit of rubbing. I had to cut about 1/3 of the stock mudflaps and a bit more of the inner wheel well fender liner thingy. I had to cut more of the drivers side than the passengers side. On the passengers side, there was almost no rubbing except for when flexing a bit, so I trimmed a small amount.

So I re-read the description for the kit and it includes a sway bar relocate bracket. And since my vehicle isn't a 4WD I dont need the front diff drop. So with this in mind would getting UCA's be beneficial on the safe side? And any other recomendations as far as UCA's go? I am in a similar situcation as krayziekid in that I am broke and still new to adult hood & am planning on having this vehile for a while. :cry2::cry2::cry2:

Glad to hear from someone that put 275's on and that it was just minor trimming. As with my inexperience a body mount chop was not something I am willing to take on. I am planning on getting the KO2's as well.
 
It seems as though the general concensis is that the kit comes with all parts needed. UCA's are suggested by some but not necessary.

So I re-read the description for the kit and it includes a sway bar relocate bracket. And since my vehicle isn't a 4WD I dont need the front diff drop. So with this in mind would getting UCA's be beneficial on the safe side? And any other recomendations as far as UCA's go? I am in a similar situcation as krayziekid in that I am broke and still new to adult hood & am planning on having this vehile for a while. :cry2::cry2::cry2:

Glad to hear from someone that put 275's on and that it was just minor trimming. As with my inexperience a body mount chop was not something I am willing to take on. I am planning on getting the KO2's as well.

[MENTION=119241]Sickoreo[/MENTION]

I do not completely agree with some of the other posters on this thread. Yes, the Boss kit will come with everything you need for the "kit", in and of itself. However, there are several other things that you are going to have to replace to have a viable, confident suspension.

I purchased and installed the Toytec Ultimate kit on my '05 SE, and am very happy with it. One thing that I discovered, as I was installing it (I did all of the work myself), was how bad of shape my Runner's ancillary suspension was in, at 95k miles. I'm not sure what your mileage is, but if you are near, or surpassed the 100k mark, your SWAY BAR BUSHINGS, SWAY BAR END LINKS, CONTROL ARM BUSHINGS and even your BALL JOINTS are probably on their last legs. When I discovered this on my rig, I knew that I was going to have to replace these items immediately, or I would not feel the true potential of my new suspension.

Let me also state that you really should reconsider getting longer, aftermarket UCA's. As soon as your Runner approaches the 3"-over-stock-lift mark, getting the alignment (specifically caster) to spec is almost impossible. Yes, you can go without the UCA's, but you will notice, at high speeds, that your vehicle will not steer as confidently as it should and will have a tendency to "drift". I figured, since I needed new ball joints and UCA bushings anyway, I'll bite the bullet and drop the extra $450.00 for the UCA's. I'm very happy that I did as my suspension feels awesome! All new bushings, end links, UCA's, in addition to my Toytec kit make for a ride that feels like a brand new truck. I'm telling you, save up the money to get the extra parts, and you will be much happier (not to mention these are things that are going to have to be done in the near future anyway).
 
I purchased and installed the Toytec Ultimate kit on my '05 SE, and am very happy with it. One thing that I discovered, as I was installing it (I did all of the work myself), was how bad of shape my Runner's ancillary suspension was in, at 95k miles. I'm not sure what your mileage is, but if you are near, or surpassed the 100k mark, your SWAY BAR BUSHINGS, SWAY BAR END LINKS, CONTROL ARM BUSHINGS and even your BALL JOINTS are probably on their last legs. When I discovered this on my rig, I knew that I was going to have to replace these items immediately, or I would not feel the true potential of my new suspension.

Let me also state that you really should reconsider getting longer, aftermarket UCA's. As soon as your Runner approaches the 3"-over-stock-lift mark, getting the alignment (specifically caster) to spec is almost impossible. Yes, you can go without the UCA's, but you will notice, at high speeds, that your vehicle will not steer as confidently as it should and will have a tendency to "drift". I figured, since I needed new ball joints and UCA bushings anyway, I'll bite the bullet and drop the extra $450.00 for the UCA's. I'm very happy that I did as my suspension feels awesome! All new bushings, end links, UCA's, in addition to my Toytec kit make for a ride that feels like a brand new truck. I'm telling you, save up the money to get the extra parts, and you will be much happier (not to mention these are things that are going to have to be done in the near future anyway).

So with this being said I can say that I am nearing 105k miles on mine and that makes sense about the wear on the vehicle.

So which parts would you suggest getting? I can simpathize with getting the suggested parts replaced but like I said I am new to this whole area and am still learning.
 
I haven't gone down this path yet, but based on my research and when my time comes... I would at the very least do the upper control arms.. most come with the bushings and balljoints/uniball (whichever you choose).. After that see what's needed. Sway bar bushings can be found on amazon relatively cheap.
 
Suggestions & Thoughts

I have been reading many topics in this forum since I am considering building a 4Runner my self.

Here is my thought.
Boss Suspension System (TTBOSS-FJ3K)
Boss Suspension System for 03-09 4Runner, 07-09 FJ

Camburg Toyota Upper Control Arms. (Cam-310036)
Camburg Toyota Tacoma Pre/4wd 05-15 1.25 Performance Uniball Upper Arms

http://camburg.com/store/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/05_Taco_1.25_uca.pdf


Regardless of the conditions of the end-link or sway bar bushings, I would replace them. So buy the Toytec Sway Bar and Endlink bushing set.

Rear 17mm Sway Bar Bushing Kit

Also, Call Camburg or Toytec and find out if you can use the stock brake-lines or will you need a longer replacement for front and back.
I would think Toytec might have a better understanding for this. :noidea:

While your talking to Toytec, find out if you should use suspension Limit Straps also?

Don't for get to post Before, during and after pics.
 
I haven't gone down this path yet, but based on my research and when my time comes... I would at the very least do the upper control arms.. most come with the bushings and balljoints/uniball (whichever you choose).. After that see what's needed. Sway bar bushings can be found on amazon relatively cheap.

I have been reading many topics in this forum since I am considering building a 4Runner my self.

Here is my thought.
Boss Suspension System (TTBOSS-FJ3K)
Boss Suspension System for 03-09 4Runner, 07-09 FJ

Camburg Toyota Upper Control Arms. (Cam-310036)
Camburg Toyota Tacoma Pre/4wd 05-15 1.25 Performance Uniball Upper Arms

http://camburg.com/store/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/05_Taco_1.25_uca.pdf


Regardless of the conditions of the end-link or sway bar bushings, I would replace them. So buy the Toytec Sway Bar and Endlink bushing set.

Rear 17mm Sway Bar Bushing Kit

Also, Call Camburg or Toytec and find out if you can use the stock brake-lines or will you need a longer replacement for front and back.
I would think Toytec might have a better understanding for this. :noidea:

While your talking to Toytec, find out if you should use suspension Limit Straps also?

Don't for get to post Before, during and after pics.

Thanks for the input. I think I am going to start getting everything together as far as what I am going to purchase and make the purchase. I won't actually be putting anything together until September ish time frame as I will be going on a trip.

And I will post pictures as they come along.

Thanks again for all the help. I will probably add the pictures to this post once I get started on it.
 
How does that kit get rid of the 4Runner lean - if you adjust the shock to level it out, won't the left/right have different compression/damping characteristic to it?
 
How does that kit get rid of the 4Runner lean - if you adjust the shock to level it out, won't the left/right have different compression/damping characteristic to it?


Idk how but my car is level side to side. However front to back its not but I have a shrockworks bumper so that's definitely the issue
 
How does that kit get rid of the 4Runner lean - if you adjust the shock to level it out, won't the left/right have different compression/damping characteristic to it?

Most of us simply install a DAYSTAR rear 1.5" spacer on top o the rear driver side coil. This levels it out PERFECTLY!
 
Regardless of the conditions of the end-link or sway bar bushings, I would replace them. So buy the Toytec Sway Bar and Endlink bushing set.

Rear 17mm Sway Bar Bushing Kit

[MENTION=119241]Sickoreo[/MENTION] and all others about to replace your REAR sway bar bushings: Toytec sells 17mm poly bushings for the 4th gen rear sway bar. HOWEVER, not all 4th gens have a 17mm diameter rear sway bar! I purchased Toytec's 17mm bushings, but went to install and discovered that they were TOO SMALL. I put a caliper on my '05 Sport Edition's rear sway bar, and it turned out to be a 21mm diameter rear sway bar. I called Toytec and they confirmed that Toyota used different diameter REAR sway bars on on the 4th gen. So, the lesson here is to put a caliper on your rear sway bar and measure the diameter! I ended up purchasing some 21mm poly bushings from Jegs.

The front sway bar, however is indeed 29mm on ALL 4th gens.
 
[MENTION=119241]Sickoreo[/MENTION] and all others about to replace your REAR sway bar bushings: Toytec sells 17mm poly bushings for the 4th gen rear sway bar. HOWEVER, not all 4th gens have a 17mm diameter rear sway bar! I purchased Toytec's 17mm bushings, but went to install and discovered that they were TOO SMALL. I put a caliper on my '05 Sport Edition's rear sway bar, and it turned out to be a 21mm diameter rear sway bar. I called Toytec and they confirmed that Toyota used different diameter REAR sway bars on on the 4th gen. So, the lesson here is to put a caliper on your rear sway bar and measure the diameter! I ended up purchasing some 21mm poly bushings from Jegs.

The front sway bar, however is indeed 29mm on ALL 4th gens.

I completely agree with Preacher. Measure what you have before you order.

Oh, to correct what I said about "Regardless" the condition of the bushings. If new then leave them or if you would like another "type" other than rubber then change them. If slightly warn or worse then replace them.
Also, (my opinion) Energy Suspension has the better bushings.
 
[MENTION=119241]Sickoreo[/MENTION] and all others about to replace your REAR sway bar bushings: Toytec sells 17mm poly bushings for the 4th gen rear sway bar. HOWEVER, not all 4th gens have a 17mm diameter rear sway bar! I purchased Toytec's 17mm bushings, but went to install and discovered that they were TOO SMALL. I put a caliper on my '05 Sport Edition's rear sway bar, and it turned out to be a 21mm diameter rear sway bar. I called Toytec and they confirmed that Toyota used different diameter REAR sway bars on on the 4th gen. So, the lesson here is to put a caliper on your rear sway bar and measure the diameter! I ended up purchasing some 21mm poly bushings from Jegs.

The front sway bar, however is indeed 29mm on ALL 4th gens.

So I went out and measured the rear sway bar in different areas along the bar and it measured from 18mm-19mm in different areas with it usually being 19mm. Thoughts?
 
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Xreas/Lift question

I'm browsing thru threads and this one seems to address much of what my son is wanting to do on his 05 SE 2WD current stock 4R (wants a cosmetic lift, larger tires, beefier look), but is there any issue with the changes creating "limp" mode? That's what my local lift guru is concerned about before starting any mods to this Xreas suspension. Maybe there's a better thread on this issue.
Thanks for the help.
 

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