Toytec now selling 1" body lift for 5th gens
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dylan_n_00
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Toytec now selling 1" body lift for 5th gens
How are these installs? Easy?
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How are these installs? Easy?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
deedubb
New member
Install is about 5 hours as I recall. Basically need to remove all interior door/side panels
mwray8909
New member
So you're saying seats and all the carpet and such have to be removed?
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DeepSea
New member
No just the bottom plastic panels at the door jams. Took me about 4 hours. There is another Post here about the 1" from Fat Pats. They are near identical kits but Pats cost less:
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/sale-suspension-wheels-tires/174587-fs-4th-gen-body-lifts-just-like-my-3rd-gen-page.html
jdtaylor42
New member
Very interesting. I like the body lifts don't mess with the suspension angles but I wonder about gaps. With rock sliders being mounted to the frame and the bumper shroud being attached at the front suspension cross-member and also at the bumper I wonder how all that would look with the body lifted. Would love to see one in person. Maybe now that Toytec is selling them they will become more commonplace
wfo9
New member
You don't want a body lift unless you need it for tire clearance... It raises the center of gravity with no other benefits besides tire clearance. Unlike a lift.. No improvement in approach/departure/break over.... Just a loss in stability. Worth it for more tire though. Would only consider for 35s....
tristero
New member
check out [MENTION=76550]cbielat[/MENTION] build thread. There's some work involved mounting armor, etc. after the 1" spacer. Last I saw he was working on the sliders, but where the truck sits now is beautiful.
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/195701-cbielats-2011-sr5-build-thread.html
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/195701-cbielats-2011-sr5-build-thread.html
Inv4drZm
Senior Member
You could technically lower your suspension lift to around 2" and use a 1" BL for extra tire clearance. You would gain some downtravel over a 3" suspension lift, gain tire clearance over a 3" suspension lift, and would have the same CG as a 3" suspension lift. (actually a hair lower CG)
But yeah, most people, me included, stack it with a 3" suspension lift.
Also, a body lift does gain you approach angle if you mount your bumpers higher or weld sliders higher. More noticeable with a larger 1.5"-2" BL of course, if you can still mount your bumpers that high.
wfo9
New member
You could technically lower your suspension lift to around 2" and use a 1" BL for extra tire clearance. You would gain some downtravel over a 3" suspension lift, gain tire clearance over a 3" suspension lift, and would have the same CG as a 3" suspension lift. (actually a hair lower CG)
But yeah, most people, me included, stack it with a 3" suspension lift.
Also, a body lift does gain you approach angle if you mount your bumpers higher or weld sliders higher. More noticeable with a larger 1.5"-2" BL of course, if you can still mount your bumpers that high.
You would gain in some areas if you somehow designed the bumpers for a body lift, but that won't happen in the rear unless you cut the frame cross member/factory bumper out since it very much limits how high the bumper cover can mount for departure. Also on the 5th gen the biggest clearance challenges (in terms of approach, break over...) is the front radiator support (really not a big limit) and the rear lower control arm mounts (huge limiter). A body lift will not raise these or provide any improvements at all. A lift will.
A body lift would not be a gain in down travel (at least not in my definition of down travel). I think you mean it lowers your ride height and increases sag. In my book... down travel is measured at full droop from full stuff, not relative to ride height. You need a little sag in the suspension to get decent performance, but not much. I would take 3" suspension lift and 0 body lift any day over 2" lift with 1" body lift. I'm not against a small body lift, but A much better approach is fender modifications... but I understand why people don''t want to do that on a 5th gen....So the technique makes sense to run 35s... But 33s or 34s just fit without it.
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jdtaylor42
New member
If I ever installed one it would definitely be for tire clearance. I would love to run 35's down the road but I would not make that upgrade until I was also ready to re-gear and buy some beadlocks. If I didn't like the gap I suppose I could weld a new set of rock sliders but they were a pain to design the first time around with KDSS and that's not a project I look forward to doing again.
Jetboy
New member
How does it work with the front bumper? It must raise the mounting set with a plate of some sort, but then the attaching flanges would not line up with the holes on the frame end. And if you added enough spacer to make it fit, the bumper would stick out and body lines wouldn't match. Are they just relying on using only 2 of the 4 bolts on each side? or is there some special adapter plate that works? And wouldn't that kinda defeat the crush zone engineering now that the bumper is offset from the frame rail ends? (My OEM internal bumper parts are all in my garage so I don't really have a huge issue with this - but I am curious about how it works.)
One other alternative to a big body lift would be a smaller bracket lift. They are generally about a 2.5-3" lift for just the brackets in the front. Something that I've thought would be a functional alternative for 35" tires would be a 2" bracket lift plus a small additional spring lift. The combo would only ride about the same height as a 3" lift, but by changing the lower pivot points it would allow clearance from the body mount and keep more flat control arms for better ride quality.
One other alternative to a big body lift would be a smaller bracket lift. They are generally about a 2.5-3" lift for just the brackets in the front. Something that I've thought would be a functional alternative for 35" tires would be a 2" bracket lift plus a small additional spring lift. The combo would only ride about the same height as a 3" lift, but by changing the lower pivot points it would allow clearance from the body mount and keep more flat control arms for better ride quality.
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There's also other issues you can run into. Prime example is TheWraith and his build, where he tried to pair up an Icon Stage 7 lift and then do a body lift to fit bigger tires. Long story short, he found that he would need additional parts to link the shifter and the transfer case, among other issues. Definitely worth the read, as he details the issues well.
toku58
New member
Is it the same as Fat Pat's? I believe Fat Pat's is cheaper also.
Jetboy
New member
No. Same control arms = same clearance to the body mount with no lift or 3" of lift. And body lift does not move the body mount.
DeepSea
New member
Very similar but Toytec comes with a radiator bracket but I'm not sure why because I didn't have to touch mine nor the fan shroud using the Fat Pats.
DeepSea
New member
It wraps around it. I Had a very slight gap so I moved the actual aluminum bumper up exactly one inch. The 8-bolt OEM mount allows you to do so.
DeepSea
New member
Honestly the gap is barely noticeable and a 1" higher center of gravity is minor. I honestly haven't noticed mine feeling "top heavy" or less stable since I did it. I won't be going 35s unless I re-gear but will be going with the 285/75 Nitto Ridge Grapplers soon
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