Toytec ultimate coilovers installed

[Wssboard18]

Did anyone else get almost 4 inches of lift from their ultimate coilovers? I was told they come preset for 2 1/2" of lift? I know I can adjust them down, but why was it not 2 1/2"? I have 1 1/4" of thread showing, I thought that would equal 2 1/2" of lift. I have a 2013 SR5
My front fender from the ground was 34" before and now it's at 37 3/4" after. Stock rims and tires.
How many inches of thread showing do most people have for a 2 1/2 - 3" lift?

Btw the ride is great and I love the coilovers

 

[mace.]

Measuring from the ground is not a reliable measurement. Measuring from the the center of the hub to the top of the fender is the better way to do it. When I installed the Toytec Boss it was well over 3inches and had to be cranked down some. The spanner they supply isn't the highest of quality either. Mine broke after lowering one side leaving me to have to use a strap wrench to get the other side down.

 

[Wssboard18]

Thanks for the feedback. I remeasured from the center of the hub and the front driver side is 23 3/4" and passenger side is 24". I think that is still close to 4"? I don't know what stock height is from the center hub.

 

[bimrunner]

Did anyone else get almost 4 inches of lift from their ultimate coilovers? I was told they come preset for 2 1/2" of lift? I know I can adjust them down, but why was it not 2 1/2"? I have 1 1/4" of thread showing, I thought that would equal 2 1/2" of lift. I have a 2013 SR5
My front fender from the ground was 34" before and now it's at 37 3/4" after. Stock rims and tires.
How many inches of thread showing do most people have for a 2 1/2 - 3" lift?

Btw the ride is great and I love the coilovers

I can measure mine in a bit but the amount of thread showing will depend on a few factors. I probably have about what it comes from Toytec set at since I have a bumper and winch installed and it does tend to settle a little as well. You may find yourself adjusting a couple times to get it exactly the way you want it.

 

[eddiebx]

Thanks for the feedback. I remeasured from the center of the hub and the front driver side is 23 3/4" and passenger side is 24". I think that is still close to 4"? I don't know what stock height is from the center hub.

No offense, but are you sure you're measuring accurately? (ie. directly on center of the hub and straight up to the fender at a 90 degree angle, etc...)

I ask this because your numbers sort of don't add up, lol. Maybe it's just my memory, but I could've sworn my front fenders are ~36.5" from the ground and ~21.5" from the center of the hub (on stock sized tires). You on the other hand have only 1" higher ground to fender, but over 2" higher hub to fender...where did the extra inch fro the ground to the hub come from :tape:

What I am getting at is, maybe it's just your measuring technique? How do the CV angles look?

Check out this thread by [MENTION=55815]Okki[/MENTION], he has a super accurate and repeatable way of measuring all nicely laid out: http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/94578-okkis-build-thread-7.html#post1335626

 

[roktoy]

Can you post a picture.
Mine is a 2014, looks like its possible your stock springs sagged some. But based off a new 4runner, you got about 3" of lift, and it should settle some since those are new springs.

Here are my measurements with a 2.5/1.5 spacer lift.

Stock Suspension and Tires
Driver Front Passenger Front
34.75” 35.25”
Driver Rear Passenger Rear
37” 37.125”

First Day with Spacer Lift and Stock Tires
Driver Front Lift Passenger Front Lift
37.375” 2.625” 37.75” 2.5”
Driver Rear Lift Passenger Rear Lift
38.75” 1.75” 38.625” 1.5”

 

[Wssboard18]

I remeasured on a flatter surface and it looks like I got about 3 1/2" of lift up front. Our driveway is on a slight upslope so I think that raised the front a little when I was measuring last time. My CV angles aren't the worst I have seen, but they are more than I want for reliability. I guess I'll just have to adjust the coilovers down. I only have a 1" spacer in the back so I only wanted 2-2 1/2" of lift in the front.

 

[Wssboard18]

How do my CV angles look?

 

[cbielat]

How do my CV angles look?

Fine

 

[shaneotool]

I'd measure the ground to fender in the rear, then adjust the front accordingly.

 

[endupzhukaf]

I think that is still close to 4"? I don't know what stock height is from the center hub.

 

[RaginTxn84]

Sooo...I haven't seen anyone post to this for a while - but thought I would throw my numbers up as well (yes, unfortunately my measurements are from the ground):

DF: 38.75
PF: 39.25
DR: 39.25
PR: 39.25

Installed toytec boss with saw rear springs and 5100s - so from roktoy's post - it looks like I also got a 4" lift? sounds like I will need to lower the front a bit - my CV's (mostly the inside one) are really jammed up :shocked:

 

[shaneotool]

Sooo...I haven't seen anyone post to this for a while - but thought I would throw my numbers up as well (yes, unfortunately my measurements are from the ground):

DF: 38.75
PF: 39.25
DR: 39.25
PR: 39.25

Installed toytec boss with saw rear springs and 5100s - so from roktoy's post - it looks like I also got a 4" lift? sounds like I will need to lower the front a bit - my CV's (mostly the inside one) are really jammed up :shocked:

I like measurements from the ground. Seems like they are more repeatably consistent than trying to hold the end of the tape somewhere close to the center of the wheel..

Stock front height is right around 35". You could lower yours down to 38.25" and have about a 3" lift up front and an ideal IMO 1" rake. I wish I got adjustable front coilovers, would make things much easier..

 

[LandCruiser]

Did anyone else get almost 4 inches of lift from their ultimate coilovers? I was told they come preset for 2 1/2" of lift? I know I can adjust them down, but why was it not 2 1/2"? I have 1 1/4" of thread showing, I thought that would equal 2 1/2" of lift. I have a 2013 SR5
My front fender from the ground was 34" before and now it's at 37 3/4" after. Stock rims and tires.
How many inches of thread showing do most people have for a 2 1/2 - 3" lift?

Btw the ride is great and I love the coilovers

I had a true 3.5" in the back, but that quickly subsided.

 

[Japes]

The lift on mine was quite drastic as well. I'm hoping it settles a bit more. if it's still huge I might bring it down a bit. Just not sure how much clearance I need for the 255/80s

 

[96r50]

I like measurements from the ground. Seems like they are more repeatably consistent than trying to hold the end of the tape somewhere close to the center of the wheel..

Measuring from the ground allows for more variations since that measurement is affected by tire size, wear, pressure, and wheel width. It also doesn't allow you to directly compare measurements with other vehicles since they might have different tire and wheel combinations. Hub to fender measurements are no more difficult and are not affected by any of the above issues. You get a true, repeatable, and directly comparable measurement of your new suspension.

 

[RaginTxn84]

Update

Update:

So, after getting the wheels taken back off, the "waa waa" sound after the lift, I did a little bit of investigating. My assumption for this:

That the stock height measurements for 5th gen 2010-2013 models will be within 1/4" +/- for error - so I have been using roktoy's stock height measurements - with my post earlier, this gave me after install ~4" of lift up front and ~2" out back.

With that - I went back and measured from the bottom thread of the COs to the bottom of the bottom disc. This measured to 1.25" - doing the conversion from TT's instructions with 1/4" = 1/2" lift - this gets me to the 2.5" lift that I requested from TT when I ordered the BOSS COs. However - I would think/assume that the measurement should be take from the bottom thread of the COs to the TOP of the bottom disc as this is where it comes into contact with the top disc which controls the actual height from the CO. The disc itself is 1/2" thick - which would equate to 1" lift - thus, the whole lift would be ~3 1/2".

IF that is not correct, and the measurement should be take from the top of the second disc (the one in contact with the spring), then just add another inch of lift, and the total lift would then be 4 1/2" of lift - which seems to be closer to what everyone is experiencing (at least in this thread).

So with those assumptions, I went and adjusted accordingly, and my measurements are not sitting as follows:

DF: 37.75
PF: 38.25
DR: 39.25
PR: 39.25

The "waa waa" has gone away, and the boots look much more relaxed (although I still think the inner boot - closer to the drive train - seems squished in, probably still gonna stretch that one about 1/4"), and I have a my "normal" rake back. I've got close to 500 miles on the new set up - gonna remeasure everything this weekend, and then take it in for a "final" alignment.

Hope this helps or provides some good discussion - the only other thing that I can think of is that the 1/4" = 1/2" lift is a bit off.

Trail on~

 

[shaneotool]

Update:

So, after getting the wheels taken back off, the "waa waa" sound after the lift, I did a little bit of investigating. My assumption for this:

That the stock height measurements for 5th gen 2010-2013 models will be within 1/4" +/- for error - so I have been using roktoy's stock height measurements - with my post earlier, this gave me after install ~4" of lift up front and ~2" out back.

With that - I went back and measured from the bottom thread of the COs to the bottom of the bottom disc. This measured to 1.25" - doing the conversion from TT's instructions with 1/4" = 1/2" lift - this gets me to the 2.5" lift that I requested from TT when I ordered the BOSS COs. However - I would think/assume that the measurement should be take from the bottom thread of the COs to the TOP of the bottom disc as this is where it comes into contact with the top disc which controls the actual height from the CO. The disc itself is 1/2" thick - which would equate to 1" lift - thus, the whole lift would be ~3 1/2".

IF that is not correct, and the measurement should be take from the top of the second disc (the one in contact with the spring), then just add another inch of lift, and the total lift would then be 4 1/2" of lift - which seems to be closer to what everyone is experiencing (at least in this thread).

So with those assumptions, I went and adjusted accordingly, and my measurements are not sitting as follows:

DF: 37.75
PF: 38.25
DR: 39.25
PR: 39.25

The "waa waa" has gone away, and the boots look much more relaxed (although I still think the inner boot - closer to the drive train - seems squished in, probably still gonna stretch that one about 1/4"), and I have a my "normal" rake back. I've got close to 500 miles on the new set up - gonna remeasure everything this weekend, and then take it in for a "final" alignment.

Hope this helps or provides some good discussion - the only other thing that I can think of is that the 1/4" = 1/2" lift is a bit off.

Trail on~

I don't think you can use the 1/4" of thread equals 1/2" of lift to figure the total lift that will be given based on the total amount of thread showing. I think with even no thread showing, you still get about an inch of lift or so.
So you dont start off with zero lift as a baseline.

Where the 1/4" thread equals 1/2" lift could be useful is in fine tuning the lift after your initial install. If your front is at 39" and you want it to be 38.5", measure your thread showing and say if it is 1-1/4", lower the coil to 1" of thread showing.

 

[RaginTxn84]

I don't think you can use the 1/4" of thread equals 1/2" of lift to figure the total lift that will be given based on the total amount of thread showing. I think with even no thread showing, you still get about an inch of lift or so.
So you dont start off with zero lift as a baseline.

Where the 1/4" thread equals 1/2" lift could be useful is in fine tuning the lift after your initial install. If your front is at 39" and you want it to be 38.5", measure your thread showing and say if it is 1-1/4", lower the coil to 1" of thread showing.

It actually might - if your measurement should be from the bottom thread to the top of the bottom disc, then putting the bottom disc all the way to the bottom would be 1/2" (the width of the disc), cause if you went past the bottom thread, the disc would obviously fall off - so with the disc at the bottom thread, with 1/2" width disc, that would give you the 1" lift that you mentioned.

The only thing I know is when I went with those assumptions and measurements, it added up to the extra lift I was getting, adjusted, and now I'm sitting at about 3" of total lift...again, assumptions (then again, you know what they say about assuming... :laugh: )