Trailer wiring 4 pin help- 3rd gen

[Juliadeer]

Converter box

So I had the same issues my trailer lights work but not the blinkers and I took out the black converter box and tested the six wire harness and it all works but if I plug that in the six wires from the truck into black converter box and test the 4 coming out it's the same problem, no blinkers. So my black box is bad also. Toyota said they don't make it anymore. I have a 98 base model with factory tow hitch. The box was under the panel by the 12v plug on the passenger side. My question is if I buy the Hopkins 43415 how will I plug thus all in? Do I cut the 6 plug off the truck and wire it to the hopkins one? Seems strange to cut when there is a nice happy plug on it.

 

[Lug1]

Confirming OP's message, the Hopkins solution works

Bad converter here, same story as most of you.

Using this:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002Q7ZLO/ref=cm_cr_ryp_prd_ttl_sol_0

Was all that I needed. I was a bit worried with all the wiring mess that the product seemed to have, as I only need the converter box replaced. If Hopkins would have just made the box, it would have been awesome, being the box can be completely removed from the truck by unplugging two connectors, but they don't ..

So this was the next best thing. There are no extra cables or connectors to be worried about.
The kit conatins a 1:1 replacement and nothing else, anything you remove gets replaced, and no wires left with a "where the hell does this go to then.." look on your face.

The kit cables stretch all the way to the right rear side of the car, and replace the connectors arriving from the right rear lights. Again, in my case this was not needed, but it was much easier to replace it all, rather then to start messing with the new Vs. old cables, splicing, etc.

It basically sounds much more complicated than it really is, for $25 and a couple of hours, you'll have a working trailer lights solution.

 

[yella]

Same when I bought mine, my box was tucked up in the passenger side frame rail. I re located it into the passenger side rear storage compartment; along with the trailer connector. It gets tucked away when not in use


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[@jhcamacho]

I just got the Hopkins 43415 kit in the mail hopefully it fixes my trailer light situation.

 

[LightningMan]

Eliminating trailer 4 pin wiring black box?

turns out I wired my brake lights to the parking lights.

When I step on my brakes now I light up my parking lights as well.

Turns out the purpose of the taillight converter box is to allow electric current flow out of the 4Runner to the 4 pin connector and not backwards up to the 6 pin connector.

I'll update again when I am sure I am fixed. The 4 pin is working great ....

Hi,

I know this is an old post but could not find the answer.

Can you just wire the brakes and running lights together and eliminate the black box?

I installed a curt 4 pin version adapter with black box and it must have been shorting out, (for a brake controller install). Been driving me crazy. I was blowing fuses on my running lights. Took it out and all works well with the 1997 4runner and back to normal. I would have returned it but I had to splice to get through holes and under the bumper.

Was thinking of just cutting the black box out and eliminating it and just wiring the brake and running lights together. Does this blow fuses? OR does it work? Again it is for a brake controller install so I do not want to take chances of something happening coming down a Colorado canyon.

Thanks for any help.

 

[Ron Helmuth]

Sorry I am just catching up to old emails now LightningMan. I am terrible about watching my personal emails.

I bet you have already figured this out, but wiring your brakes to your running lights causes the dashboard instruments to light up whenever you press the brakes.

Additionally it's likely illegal to leave it that way.

 

[JamesDZ]

If this topic still has life...

Does anyone know if the 7-pin and 4-pin route to the same fuse? I have a common problem, the 10AMP mini-fuse that runs the dash lights keeps blowing out when wet. I tow nothing and wish I could unplug both of 'em (they came with the used truck).

I can sort of follow the 4-pin to the passenger side tail light (I have a 1998 SR5), I think. But the 7-pin - which is pretty destroyed - seems to route to... both sides?

If I could, I'd like to unhook 'em both and remove them.

 

[fourwd1]

Depends in part if these connectors were factory or added on by previous owner.

The 4 pin doesn't connect to a 12V source like the 7 pin does, just L + R turn, brake, and ground.

The 7 pin usually goes to battery via it's own fuse (should be a black wire, with ground wire being white).

 

[fourwd1]

Oh yeah, if these were added by the PO he may have tapped into the rear lights for L + R turn, brake, and back-up.

 

[JamesDZ]

Depends in part if these connectors were factory or added on by previous owner.

The 4 pin doesn't connect to a 12V source like the 7 pin does, just L + R turn, brake, and ground.

The 7 pin usually goes to battery via it's own fuse (should be a black wire, with ground wire being white).

Thanks for this! So the 10A fuse that keeps blowing is in the "4 pin & taillight" eco-system, separate from the 7-pin install, correct?

I think this narrows it down to the 4-pin or the converter box...

 

[Ron Helmuth]

I'd go for replacing the converter box and all wiring rearward to the hitch area. Even though you may never tow, it's not an expensive fix. I'm a bit confused why your vehicle would have both 4 and 7 pin connectors at all....but then again I'm not a regular tow guy either.

 

[fourwd1]

If the wiring for either is not stock and added on by the PO, your best bet is to tear it all out and put in new.

These aftermarket converters are a big source of problems when they get old.

 

[rmartin929]

Would this converter only, option work?

This option looks a little simpler if you just need the converter. For those that have done this, does it look like a fix for just a bad converter?

Amazon.com

Update: I used this part successfully. Just a little wire cutting and splicing. Tips: The car side of my wires were all green/striped - only 4. Use the 5 wire side to connect to the car side - the fifth wire is ground. Since I installed without a trailer attached, I used a multi-meter to determine what wire was blinker, brake, etc. And then connected per the color guide of the converter. On the trailer side of the converter (4-wire), I just matched the colored wires (they were the same colors on my '99 LTD). Last tip. On the side panel (driver side) that needed to be removed (actually just pried open) there is a plastic latch in the middle of the panel connected to the body. This latch needs to be lifted a bit to remove/pry the panel. Worked perfectly!