Tranny swap has begun!

thegipper

thegipper

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Fellas,

I started to pull the tranny out of my donor vehicle. I got everything removed minus a couple things (two final bolts on crossmember, kick down cable and the the lower two bell housing bolts).

I'm waiting for a day this week when my buddy can bring by his tranny jack and give me a hand pulling it out.

Here are my impressions so far:

This job sucks, especially doing it on the ground by yourself. It seemed easier to not even jack it up since the jacks would be in my way at times.

The inspection plate bolts are a nightmare to remove. I really needed a long ratcheting 12mm, I only have the standard length and swivel head (think I'll order one though). I have NO idea how on earth I will ever get the bolts back in, my hand does not fit through the opening.

Removing the flex plate bolts were actually pretty easy, even by myself.

The top two bell housing bolts were a total pain in the ass, even with a million extensions and swivel. I again, have no clue how I will ever get them back in. You guys all must have hands the size of 12 year old girls...lol JK

One tranny line fitting didn't want to come off, 5 minutes of MAPP gas fixed that.

Some of the electrical connectors were a pain to get to, I think I got them all, we'll see when I slowly lower it.

The rest of it was pretty straight forward, my only question, is how do I remove the kick down cable? Should I just disconnect it at the TB and fish the cable back? It looks like it just snaps in place and runs down the engine. Otherwise, I dont know how it comes off the tranny.

I'm hoping this week to get it pulled. Then I get to do it all over again! FML

Then install it!
 
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Hey Mike, I hope you're using the video [MENTION=102606]infamousRNR[/MENTION] and I made for this job.
 
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Not an automatic but I replaced my clutch today solo and feel your pain! I put my jack stands all the way up front on frame cross member just behind radiator. This happened after I was starting to pull trans and realized that where I initially had them wasn't going to work. That sucked. The inspection plate suck , yep. I ended up using a flex head short 1/4" ratchet and short socket. That seemed to work best. For the upper drivers side one I went through wheel well. I waited until I lowered trans a bit for the 2 upper bellhousing bolts. They are a ***** too. My impact running at 150psi wouldn't budge them. Had to get out the big 26" snap on 1/2" ratchet ! Even then I didn't think they were coming out. Best of luck to you!
 
I forgot to mention, I watched Tim's video like 3 times. It's been a huge help!

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thegipper said:
I forgot to mention, I watched Tim's video like 3 times. It's been a huge help!

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

That's what [MENTION=102606]infamousRNR[/MENTION] (aka Sean) and I like to hear. No doubt about it, it's a big job but it's well within the ability of DIYer Mechanics if you take your time and can hopefully get a friend to help you.

Good luck and let me know if you run into any snags and have questions.
 
Hey Mike, you just disconnect the kickdown cable at the throttle body. Sean's 2002 transmission didn't have the kickdown cable so we didn't have to deal with that. When I looked at my 2000 FSM doing research for Sean's trans replacement, I read you have to take off pan and some other stuff to remove that cable from the transmission.
 
One trick I use for the top bell housing bolts is plastic wrap. If you wrap a layer or 2 around the hex head of the bolt and then jam it into the swivel socket it stays put while you feed the bolt and extensions back up. Works like a magnet socket without a magnet.

Also, to make a more agreeable angle, take cross member out and use a standard floor jack on the tail end with a block of wood. You can lower the rear quite a bit and give yourself a shit load more room to feed the top bolts. But obviously be careful.

Average joes tackle this job all the time, so go for it. Just remember gravity sucks and shit is heavier than it looks.

Good luck
 
Yeah I think the FSM has you disconnect the kick down cable from inside the tranny pan. I'm thinking I'll just disconnect it from the TB, seems easier to me.

to remove the pan just to unhook the cable, then put the pan back on so you can get the tranny jack on it seems like a waste of time.

In theory I have two crossmember bolts, kickdown cable and two bell housing bolts left and the tranny *should come out.
 
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Just removed the kickdown cable at the throttle body. It is held in place by metal clip retainers that run down the drivers side of the engine, you simply pull the cable out from the retainers. There is one metal bracket that holds the cable to the tranny housing but there is no need to remove that bracket, it can all come out when I yank the tranny (that came out weird..lol).

I fished the cable from above and is now laying next to the tranny.

Just need the jack and a friend, she'll be out very soon! Hopefully mine comes out a little faster/easier since now I have experience with this.

To be continued!
 
thegipper said:
Just removed the kickdown cable at the throttle body. It is held in place by metal clip retainers that run down the drivers side of the engine, you simply pull the cable out from the retainers. There is one metal bracket that holds the cable to the tranny housing but there is no need to remove that bracket, it can all come out when I yank the tranny (that came out weird..lol).

I fished the cable from above and is now laying next to the tranny.

Just need the jack and a friend, she'll be out very soon! Hopefully mine comes out a little faster/easier since now I have experience with this.

To be continued!
Click to expand...
Just remember, when telling your non car friends about this, never mention that you blew a tranny...

As you have figured out, keep the kickdown cable with the trans. You have to remove the transmission pan to remove it from the transmission...

Ih31GXi.jpg


I don't remember the inspection plate cover being that big of a hassle... but my truck was up on a lift. Also, for those top bolts, you should be able to start them with your hand reaching up, then put the long extension on them to tighten them up. That's what I remember, at least!

-Charlie
 
I only put 3 inspection plate bolts back in. Screw that upper drivers side bolt! I also installed all bell housing bolts by hand.


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Wow, thanks for the tips guys.

I'm hoping by the end of this weekend I'll have my donor tranny pulled.

Here is my dilemma though, my donor vehicle is at work and I'll have the help of a buddy and his tranny jack to pull it. Once it is out, I can use our fork lift at work with straps to put it on a pallet so I can strap it down for transport. It needs to come back to my house where I will be removing my tranny and swapping in this one.

I can bring the donor tranny home on my small trailer (strapped to a pallet) but do I need to support it any certain way for the 10 mile trip or just strap it down good? I'm assuming I can just lay it on the pan?

Also, once I get the trailer home with the tranny on it, can two guys lift it to put it on a tranny jack? Keep in mind the transfer case is still on it. I'm 6'4 280 and can lift a fair amount. My neighbor who could help is 5'4 maybe a buck fifty soaking wet.

Thoughts? Tips?
 
19963.4lsr5 said:
I only put 3 inspection plate bolts back in. Screw that upper drivers side bolt! I also installed all bell housing bolts by hand.


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Click to expand...

Yes that bolt is a total pain in the ass to get to, actually they all are. I did buy some more tools to help when I pull my tranny out.

I bought a 3/8" Milwaukee cordless ratchet, a couple more flare nut wrenchs (didn't have a 17mm) and a couple extra long, swivel head ratcheting wrenchs. That will help with a few of the bolts and stuff.
 
Laying in on the pan is fine, just try and disperse the weight, I.E. Use a few 2x4's laying down so the entire pan is supported, not just one spot. Also support the transfer case as well.

And yeah, 2 guys should be able to pick it up. They are heavy but it can be done. You can also slide it on the pallet pretty easily or get a flat 4 wheel moving dolly to roll it around. Or a chain and an engine hoist. Think smarter not harder! And be f*ckin careful, cause again, they're heavy.
 
4Reak Show said:
Laying in on the pan is fine, just try and disperse the weight, I.E. Use a few 2x4's laying down so the entire pan is supported, not just one spot. Also support the transfer case as well.

And yeah, 2 guys should be able to pick it up. They are heavy but it can be done. You can also slide it on the pallet pretty easily or get a flat 4 wheel moving dolly to roll it around. Or a chain and an engine hoist. Think smarter not harder! And be f*ckin careful, cause again, they're heavy.
Click to expand...
I agree with all this.

If you can use an engine hoist though... that would save some hernia risk. :faint:

Also consider removing the transfer case if things are too heavy as one unit. It may help with re-install...

-Charlie
 
One assumption to be made here is that you need a new neighbor. At 5'7" and 150 I know the pain.

Good luck with it. More leverage equals less pain.
 
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