Transfer Case education

i think plasma is a better option lol here its 30 bucks a draw and you can go every 2 days. and best part is there open Saturdays!!! all you need to do is drink lots of water and life will be good. haha how else do you think i can keep up with these gas prices and still stay in college? lets see.... 30 bucks a draw and the t case is 900.... thats ten weeks for me to save up!!! :-D
 
Just something else to add. If you find a 4cyl turbo tranny (R151f) which is basically the same as yours, you put your bell housing on it and now have a 4.31 first gear instead of a 3.83 first gear. 2nd and up are all the same. But youd still have the chain case.

Some good info on this page. Toyota Pickup and 4Runner Drivetrain Specifications

Edit: SV- ad this thread and ^ That link to the stick page!
 
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Sorry I missed this. Been away for a while. I've been thinking about duals for a long time. It is expensive to do.

Need to get a gear drive T-case or two for dual, 23 spline input or 2 for duals, 4 cyl or dual case cross member, 4.7 gears, a rebuild kit, and maybe new 2.28 gears just to freshen it up, V6 adapter and dual adapter if you go duals, and you will want the ultra cool twin sticks. Then you need longer front drive shaft, and shorter rear drive shaft.

You will then have the potential for loads of torque that other weaker stuff can start to break. Therefore my road towards this, has begun with 4.88's in the diffs, and I just ordered longfield axles and hub gears. But in the end I may withdraw from duals and just do single with 4.7 gears. I did 3 trails over the past weekend. And the stock 2.56 gears did fine, it even went through deepish spring mud without gas pedal input, slow, but it did it. The only issue I have is going downhill, in first gear under engine compression no brakes, it is too slow, and in 2nd gear it is too fast.

If you go one of these routes it will be exciting for sure and I will pay attention, and you will pay for lots of parts.... LOL....:jump:
 
Sorry I missed this. Been away for a while. I've been thinking about duals for a long time. It is expensive to do.

Need to get a gear drive T-case or two for dual, 23 spline input or 2 for duals, 4 cyl or dual case cross member, 4.7 gears, a rebuild kit, and maybe new 2.28 gears just to freshen it up, V6 adapter and dual adapter if you go duals,

You have the option to have the 4.7 gears come in a 23 spline. So if you put the 4.7 case infront, it still has a 21 spline out put that fits up to the second , a 2.28 case. Sure, it creates a minor weak spot, but unless youre crawling super sticky rocks with 40" tires I doubt youll have a problem.

But you still need 2 adapters and new cross members, drive line etc.

But with the single 4.7 case youre looking at one adapter and the gear them selves and a top shift case. It still lines up with the stock cross member and drive shafts.

Check out that link I posted on the other page theres videos of the different gearing combinations and how they crawl.
 
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You have the option to have the 4.7 gears come in a 23 spline. So if you put the 4.7 case infront, it still has a 21 spline out put that fits up to the second , a 2.28 case. Sure, it creates a minor weak spot, but unless youre crawling super sticky rocks with 40" tires I doubt youll have a problem.

But you still need 2 adapters and new cross members, drive line etc.

But with the single 4.7 case youre looking at one adapter and the gear them selves and a top shift case. It still lines up with the stock cross member and drive shafts.

Check out that link I posted on the other page theres videos of the different gearing combinations and how they crawl.

I've read that page several times. V6 transmission and transfer case - YotaTech Forums It is one of the best info threads I've found too. But no matter how you slice it, it costs money.

One way that could give many benefits but keep costs down is just a single case with 4.7 gears for very low range and easier bolt up, or dual cases with 2.28 x 2.28 gears which give the option of normal low range and very low range when combined, a good way to build in stages.

So my shopping list has one top shift transfercase checked off.

Ultimately one 4.7 geared case for me, will probably be enough. Besides the added low range power I want it for the control it brings. Being leaf sprung all around, if I'm able to keep it going slow on the rocks things are fine, and I don't feel like a milk shake. But if you advance too fast it is not very forgiving, or if you hit a bump too fast and your foot jerks forward on the accelerator it bucks like a bronco. Having 4.7s or dual would make it so that less accelerator input would be required and you could keep you foot further away from the pedal. Well that is how I see it to be useful. But already now with the stock gearing, the more I wheel the truck the more I get used to it, and find that the stock gearing is pretty adequate and I don't need to give accelerator input as much as I thought.
 
All V6s have chain driven t cases. Bonus, we get the awesome r150f, downside we get the chain. Haha.

You need to get a top shift case to drop in. I have a killer thread in mind that will explain everything pretty well. Ill see if I can dig it up.

Edit: found it,

V6 transmission and transfer case - YotaTech Forums

I know this is an older thread but thank you so much for posting this. This was so friggin helpful in understanding the Crawlbox theory and setup.
 
i know this is an older thead but,


i didnt see it mentioned anywhere, IF you're going to run dual case, and 4.0-4.7 gears, make sure and run them in the REAR case.

when used in the front case, they put too much torque on the rear case, and you start busting input shafts.


also, i suggest only running 4.0-4.7 if running dual cases.
they are mostly TOO low if they are your only option, i/e regeared single case.
also, i noticed someone above mentioned twin sticks.
twin sticks are NOT needed when running dual cases. you already have the option of 2wd low, the only thing you gain with a twin stick on dual cases is 2wd low low. kind of pointless.
 
buy a gear driven t case. if you really want 4.7 buy a used 4.7 gear driven t case.
than buy one of these to bolt up a gear driven t case
Toyota, Suzuki Samurai, and Jeep Off Road Parts

imo its best to go with dual case. i would start with two stock 2.28 case and see how you like it. you will need to shorten and lengthen your drive-shafts. should also look into another front drive shaft to be used in the rear so you have a CV rear drive-shaft (helps with vibrations and extreme angles)
oh you will need and want a dual case cross-member, this will give you even more clearance as the Toyota one hangs way to low and is a eye sore imo

once you have dual 2.28 case. look into re-gearing 3rd members and lockers would be a good time. most the time with dual 2.28 and re-geared 3rd members, it might just be slow enough for you. 4.7 gears is $$.

heck i rather do 3 2.28 t case. yes i said 3 t case which is possible
at this point i think you just have to swap the front and rear drive shafts around to be correct length lol
 
A single 4.7 modified case along with proper gear i the diffs, and a locker will get you just about anywhere. Advantage of the single case is that no other changes to driveshafts, etc are required. Then if you really get into it, add a 2nd stock case, (and modify the drv shfts and case mount)
Don't worry about gearing the 2nd case or adding a 3rd case, that's totally unneeded by that point.
 
A single 4.7 modified case along with proper gear i the diffs, and a locker will get you just about anywhere. Advantage of the single case is that no other changes to driveshafts, etc are required. Then if you really get into it, add a 2nd stock case, (and modify the drv shfts and case mount)
Don't worry about gearing the 2nd case or adding a 3rd case, that's totally unneeded by that point.

the problem i have noticed with just 4.7 single case is that when on the trail inbetween where you dont need 4.7, you ended just going really slow to get to the next spot or run your revs high to go faster. sure you can drop out of 4.7 and go 4HI but than your under geared and burn even more gas to maintain power band, end up going to fast. again this is what i have heard from people with just a single 4.7. i guess as long as you can do the trails your on in 4HI than a single 4.7 should be perfect. i know i cant do a single 4.7 but im not in the same boat as you guys. i have an automatic and i can go as slow as i want with just stock t case. regeared diff helped
 
Maybe a dumb question, but does changing the transfer case to a 4.7 only effect 4 low? Does it do anything to 4HI or 2HI?
 
Maybe a dumb question, but does changing the transfer case to a 4.7 only effect 4 low? Does it do anything to 4HI or 2HI?

like kid said.

when you select 4 low, it changes to a low gear. at the same time allows power to go to the front driveshaft
when you select 4 high, it only allows the front driveshaft to be powered

2hi and 4hi is the same gearing which is 1:1
so when you change to 4lo with your current set up, that is 2.28, you will loose that when you change to 4.7 gearset. as long as you wont miss the original 4lo than 4.7 gearset will be perfect.
 
So if I am understanding all this (and that is debatable) all I have to do is to buy a set of 4.7 gears and I can drop them in with no other modifications.

To do duals, I would need a crawl box with the same 2.28 gears from an identical transfer case, adapter plate to mount the two crawl boxes together and a modified rear drive shaft, right?

To do duals with 2.28x4.7, I would mount the 2.28 crawl box in front of the one with 4.7?
 
Despite my fears, it turns out that unlike most V6 2nd gens, I do indeed have a gear driven case!!! Just randomly looking.

wot

So if I am understanding all this (and that is debatable) all I have to do is to buy a set of 4.7 gears and I can drop them in with no other modifications.

To do duals, I would need a crawl box with the same 2.28 gears from an identical transfer case, adapter plate to mount the two crawl boxes together and a modified rear drive shaft, right?

To do duals with 2.28x4.7, I would mount the 2.28 crawl box in front of the one with 4.7?

Pretty much yeah. There's some grinding and such on the inside of your case to fit the 4.7s, it's not completely bolt-in. To go duals you'll need to modify both driveshafts, and unless both cases are top-shift you'll have to put them in the right order. And obviously there's tunnel mods to mess with to make room for the extra shifter.

But are you sure you're sporting a gear drive case already? What transmission is it?
 

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