Transfer Case stuck in 4wd, dont believe its shifter related

YotaLac

New member
Hey whats goin on. Finally got the truck in decent enough shape for me to be comfortable doing some light off roading. Been in the dirt since i could walk, but wanted to get a feel how this truck reacts off the beaten path. Locked the hubs, put the transfer case in 4H, and started down the path. Wasnt really muddy, ground was covered in wet leaves and what not. Started going up a hill, almost immediately lost momentum. To make a long story short, my front wheels werent getting power. First thing i thought, hubs (aisin) arent working. Went to take them apart today, and instead of a snap ring like i've read about and watched on videos, i've got a zinc bolt and a big flat washer? And absolutely no grease in the hubs. No biggie, i'll remove the bolt, and see what i've got. No bueno. I turn the bolt, one cv axle spins one way, the other opposite. Forgot to lock it into 4wd. Move the shifter to the 4L position. Axles still spin. Driveshaft will not spin. If i get a pry bar and put a little pressure on the front driveshaft, the rear wants to spin. This tells me the transfer case is locked in 4wd, but something in the front diff isnt working. I removed the 4wd shifter, and can manually move the pieces to the desired position (2/4H/N/4L) If the axles are spinning opposite, that sais my ring and pinion are atleast working right? Could the pinion gear inside the front diff have sheered off? I would imagine its unlikely, since a pinion gear's shaft is a pretty thick piece of steel, but I could be wrong. Now a little background on my transfer case. At 3am one morning after a night at the bar and a little detour to pound town, im on the interstate doing 70 and outa no where the engine rpms wind up rapidly. Look under the truck, every bolt holding the transfer case to the tranny had fallen out. I know, shoulda checked everything over when I bought the truck, but I didnt. There were present mechanical issues that i was focused on, 4wd wasnt on my mind at the time. Regardless, they seperated. I get towed home, get the bolts replaced, truck runs and drives. I did notice a drop in gas mileage, but what the hell, it was moving and I could get to work. So here's what im wondering. When I put the transfer case back together, the shift selector was bound up. I pulled it out and reset it after putting everything back together and it moved freely as it should. I dont know what position the actual transfer case was when i put it back together. Should it have been in N before i mated it back to the tranny? If it was in 4wd, and now is in a position where it can disengage itself? And why the heck do I have a bolt in my hubs instead of a snap ring? Im telling ya, whoever worked on this truck previously shouldnt be able to assemble bicycles at Toys R Us. I've done some redneck engineering, but some of the shit I've found done to this truck as a "fix" is mind boggling. I've searched the forums, searched google, searched pictures, and im kind of lost. If this issue has already been addressed i apologize, and ask to be pointed in that direction. I'll put a picture of the bolt in my hub that im talking about as well. Thanks for reading.

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Good deal. I'm guessing im gonna have to seperated the transfer case again, and see if there is something i boogered up when i put it back the first time
 
Ok, now that I'm not on my phone - you're a 22RE/W56, right? There's really nothing to bugger up between the transfer case and the transmission, just the splined shaft themselves. I don't remember if the '88 trucks are forward shift or top shift, if they're forward shift then there's a little bit of linkage on the top that ties into the transmission shift base, but you can't really mess that up either, it's gonna be connected or it isn't. Here's a pic of what the forward shift stuff looks like:

83B5BC84-260E-4C09-991C-E5EEBCD5EB71-11163-00001430B3310A62_zps71c8f124.jpg~original


Is that like yours? I've never had a forward shift but it looks like it'd be pretty hard to put that back in wrong. If you wanna test it, put the transmission in neutral and the 4wd selector in 4wd. Now drop the rear driveshaft (or lift the rear tires off the ground) and spin the rear flange. The front flange should spin 1 to 1 with the rear. If it doesn't, you aren't in 4wd and you probably have the selector put back in wrong. With the j-shifter, the right (passenger) shift rail controls 2wd/4wd, and when the rail slides all the way back you're 2wd. The left (driver) shift rail controls high or low range, and when the rail slides all the way back you're low range. It's pretty easy to see how the selector pivoting on the shifter base is the mirror/reverse of those positions, so when it's pushed forward driver you're in 2wd - pull it back and you're in 4wd, shove it to the passenger side and forward and you get 4wd low range. If you don't have both transfer case output flanges spinning together when the selector is in 4wd, you probably missed a slot in the shift rail when you put the transfer case back on. In the picture above, the shifter rails are in the 4 low position.

Now about your front diff and the axle/driveshaft behavior. With the hubs unlocked/not working, rotating a wheel should rotate just that wheel and nothing else. The CV shaft won't turn if the hubs aren't locked, because that's what the locking hubs do, lock the axle shaft to the wheel hubs. The CVs are connected to one another and to the driveshaft in the differential, so once you lock the hubs in and spin the wheels, everything is tied together. Now if the rear wheels were on the ground, they can't spin. If they can't spin, the rear driveshaft can't spin. If the rear driveshaft can't spin and you're in 4wd, then the front driveshaft can't spin either (it'll spin freely if you're in 2wd). So if you've got the hubs locked and and the front in the air and the truck in 4wd and you spin one wheel, it's going to try to spin the driveshaft along with it, and when that doesn't work it's going to spin the opposite wheel in the opposite direction, because that's what differentials do.

Which is a really long way of saying that if I'm understanding what you tested and what the results were correctly, I don't think anything is broken. I think everything is working correctly. If you want a conclusive test, put the truck on four jackstands, stick it in 4wd and put it in gear and see what happens. If all four wheels are spinning, great. If the fronts don't spin, find out what is spinning - if you've got the CVs working but not the wheels, trouble in the hubs. If the driveshaft is spinning but not the CVs, trouble in the differential. If the driveshaft isn't spinning, then you've got trouble in the transfer case or you're not really in 4wd, so check the linkage and shifter like I said above.
 
Thanks for the Reply Kid, looks like my original thread title was wrong, im guessing it was in the selector. My transfer case looks similiar, has selectors like that. I disconnected the driveshaft at the front diff, and had my brother working the selectors as I was attempting to turn the front driveshaft. Finally got it to sping with the selectors in 2wd, but I think for the past couple of months, the transfer case has been bound in 4wd. I didnt really change anything, greased the hubs, but after fiddling and putting it back together, everything seems to be working perfectly. Put it on jackstands, and when in gear, when i turn the back tire, the whole drivetrain turns in synch. :confused: Oh well, rather be lucky than good anyday! Thanks again for the help, really lookin forward to seeing how deep in the woods this thing will go stock!
 
that bolt/washer is OEM.

they are easily removed with a ratchet, and just hitting it quickly, or use an air ratchet. you cant slowly turn it, as you noticed, the axle just spins.

if the hubs arent used often enough, they can get stuck UNLOCKED. regardless of selector position.

had the same thing you described happen. thought i was in 4wd, attempted a small snow covered hill. made it part way and spun out. WTF!

i got out and locked/unlocked the hubs a half dozen times quickly, and it finally locked.

i believe that is what happened to you. the hubs were stuck in the unlock position from lack of use/lube.
 
Yeah it looked like the Sahara desert in there! The passenger side was a real pain in the ass to lock/unlock. After taking the cap off, greasing it up, and turning it 1000 times by hand, its alot easier. I locked it into 4L, and as I let the clutch out I could see the front driveshaft turn as that little 22RE lunged her forward. I'm going camping in a couple weeks on my property, i'll try it again then. Thanks for all the help.
 

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