Transmission drain pan threads stripped

T

Treestand_Twerkers

New member
Whilst changing all fluids on 2000 Limited, 3.4L, tranny plug was adequately tough to remove, and upon new oil, with new crush washer, won't tighten to spec. MAFIA says try thread tape and another new washer, other option perhaps drop pan and re-thread a larger hole. (I do have 2 front dif drain plugs coming in about a month, -one will replace existing dripped plug, bought 2 b/c I also have a 2000 SR5- perhaps use one of those?)
Just tackling plethora of issues previous owners leave ya with vehicles.

any other options in mind?
leaking is drip here, drip there. not sure on longer trips, just finished VCG replacement on this rig.

thnx
 
Register to hide this ad
Best to just change the pan for safety. That's a lot cheaper then a transmission...:)

Sent from my SM-A536V using Tapatalk
 
Had that happen to me a few months ago. Dealer was the last to change the fluid and probably screwed up the threads by over tightening or cross threading. When I tried to remove the bolt it was very hard to turn and came out mangled. Tried a new OEM bolt and would not thread. Followed someones advice on this board and rented for free a thread restorer kit from O'rielly's with a 10x1.5 bit. These do not cut new threads but straighten out the existing ones if they are salvageable. Carefully thread in the bit with constant, even pressure making sure it is centered in the hole until the threads catch. Then screw in the rest of the way and unthread. If the pan threads weren't too bad, the new bolt should screw in easily. You can flush with a quart of transmission fluid to catch any debris (I did not) and use a little FIPG or liquid gasket in addition to the crush washer and tighten to 15 lb-ft which is just enough to compress the crush washer, no more. Mine has been fine since I fixed it with no leaks. I'll be interested to see how the bolt comes out for the next fluid change. Changing the pan is probably the safest way to go but you might be OK with this fix. Good luck.
 
There is nothing wrong with chasing down threads if you have enough left.

I would probably try it. The good news is that the pans are not horrible to change. Thankfully, it's not a terrible job either way.




Sent from my SM-A536V using Tapatalk
 
maxthebird said:
Had that happen to me a few months ago. Dealer was the last to change the fluid and probably screwed up the threads by over tightening or cross threading. When I tried to remove the bolt it was very hard to turn and came out mangled. Tried a new OEM bolt and would not thread. Followed someones advice on this board and rented for free a thread restorer kit from O'rielly's with a 10x1.5 bit. These do not cut new threads but straighten out the existing ones if they are salvageable. Carefully thread in the bit with constant, even pressure making sure it is centered in the hole until the threads catch. Then screw in the rest of the way and unthread. If the pan threads weren't too bad, the new bolt should screw in easily. You can flush with a quart of transmission fluid to catch any debris (I did not) and use a little FIPG or liquid gasket in addition to the crush washer and tighten to 15 lb-ft which is just enough to compress the crush washer, no more. Mine has been fine since I fixed it with no leaks. I'll be interested to see how the bolt comes out for the next fluid change. Changing the pan is probably the safest way to go but you might be OK with this fix. Good luck.
Click to expand...

Ok. I have a tap/die set. need an extension for a tap (should get one anyways, have needed on in the past) and ran my m10x1.5 tap in there and heard minimal manipulation. I'll stick a magnet stick up in there and try to catch anything before I run some fluid down to help flush if needed. I dont have a repalcement bolt, but I do have a longer, like 1" m10x1.5 bolt 8.8type hardened steel as a replacement bolt/plug. I don't have the round type crush washers, but instead a bunch of the oil drain washers avaiallbe. thinking I'll go with that route.... wjill the blue oil pan washers do their job like they do the engine oil pan ya think? can't see why not.. and the longer bolt should be ok in there, huh? ..... keep an eye on it.. make sure not leaking, worst case, remove pan, use bigger bolt or replace pan... i mean shit, can't see how this won't work...?
 
A crush washer is a crush washer. Heck, I would try it. What's it going to not work, then you replace the pan...:)

Sent from my SM-A536V using Tapatalk
 
Treestand_Twerkers said:
Ok. I have a tap/die set. need an extension for a tap (should get one anyways, have needed on in the past) and ran my m10x1.5 tap in there and heard minimal manipulation. I'll stick a magnet stick up in there and try to catch anything before I run some fluid down to help flush if needed. I dont have a repalcement bolt, but I do have a longer, like 1" m10x1.5 bolt 8.8type hardened steel as a replacement bolt/plug. I don't have the round type crush washers, but instead a bunch of the oil drain washers avaiallbe. thinking I'll go with that route.... wjill the blue oil pan washers do their job like they do the engine oil pan ya think? can't see why not.. and the longer bolt should be ok in there, huh? ..... keep an eye on it.. make sure not leaking, worst case, remove pan, use bigger bolt or replace pan... i mean shit, can't see how this won't work...?
Click to expand...

After cleaning up the threads, if you can get the replacement bolt in there and it will actually get tight, you're good. If not, replace the pan.


<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/tuGazNhuEtM" title="YouTube video player" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture; web-share" allowfullscreen></iframe>
 
thanks

ok, finally got replacement tranny bolt with crush washer delivered and added a little FIPG. not leaking so far since yesterday. I did take a stick magnet to get out any small pieces of metal from the threading up in the pan.
when need to change again, we'll see how it goes. may have to drop and drill new hole or replace it at that time. figure i've got 30K miles at least to find out.

kinda tough to figure out volume of fluid via dipstick, hope I didnt overfill it too much.

onto other problems, i'm sure ya'll be hearing about them soon on here and see what the smartasses and shamers have to say on mafia
 
The stick is fussy. Just get it close and call it good.. ;) Well that's what I do. In the range is close...;)

Sent from my SM-A536V using Tapatalk
 
yeah thanks.

Next is T belt kit and I might as well replace the whole AC system while I'm in there it seems like. AC hasn't worked in the 2 yrs of ownership. Just checked High Pressure for a quick test and it seems to hold pressure. Need to check electrical, trying to find fuse/relay for it right now. maybe a new thread I'll have to start after some initial investigations based on search here and Utube. Totally ignorant on AC systems, again, a whole new thing to learn. I only know what I've done like most folks I suppose. Of course, going to add in the bypass tranny cooler as well while doing T belt so if I'm a little over on fluid, might be about right after adding extra line and the cooler... this thread could turn into a smorgasbord. lots of problems to fix on this thing.
 
By this time. Most ac condensers are oxidizing and not cooling as well.


Mostly I have to do at least 3 components to fix ac systems.

The Condenser, Drier, and Compressor.

Occasionally, a line as well.

Some folks like to clean and replace the evaporator as well. I mostly replace those when they leak. :]

Sent from my SM-A536V using Tapatalk
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Members online

Total: 168 (members: 1, guests: 167)

Forum statistics

Threads
278,309
Messages
3,554,071
Members
248,016
Latest member
Advally Service

Share this page

Trending content

Back
Top