Transmission fluid change

vicpick58

New member
I am rapidly approaching 60k miles and upon reviewing the warranty and maintenance guide, I noticed that it states under "special operating conditions" while towing, using a car top carrier or heavy vehicle loading to replace automatic transmission fluid (among other things).

Well I guess I would qualify under "heavy vehicle loading" for this service. Now I have no problem doing the differentials and transfer case myself, already done the rear diff twice and have the fluid for the front diff and fluid for the transfer case.

I do not have yet, but certainly could order some transmission fluid. However my question is how do you just change the transmission fluid on one of these?

Since there is no dip stick tube to refill it? There seems to be a drain plug on the pan, that is nice, but I don't know how to get the new fluid in and check it for correct level.

Or should I just take it to a shop or heaven forbid the dealer for this service?
It does not say anything about a filter, so not sure if dropping the pan is necessary.

What have you guys done about transmission service on your rigs?
 
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Transmission Fluid Change

This is from the Toyota on-line service manual, hope it helps:
 

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Thanks BobsTrail, That is very helpful in my understanding of how to get the fluid to the correct level after draining. However I still do not understand where to put the fluid into the transmission.

Is there a fill plug somewhere that I am unaware of?

I don't mean to seem stupid, I am 55 years old and have worked on cars since I was a kid, I have changed transmission fluid and filters on my Chevys Dodges and Jeeps in the past but am new to Toyota.
 
I did a full 14 quart flush on my 2009 4th gen 4runner with oem Toyota WS fluid.

I followed this procedure and it worked out great. I only had 50k miles on the fluid and the fluid that came out was brownish red.

Here is the link.

DIY: Full Flush for Automatic Transmission - Tacoma World Forums

After I finished the flush I than initiated the transmission temperature check mode in order to properly know when to check the fluid. You have to get the transmission in the correct temperature to properly check the level of the fluid with the overflow plug.

Here is a link with a you tube video.

How to Drain/Refill Automatic Transmission - Tacoma World Forums

His method to get his Tacoma into the AT temp check mode did not work in my 4runner. So I logged into the Toyota TIS site paid $10 bucks or so and downloaded the correct procedure.
 
BobTrail's image above REALLY helps. I used this along with my OBD-II bluetooth sensor to check my trans pan temp (Torque Pro app with the 4runner profile from here).

There is a fill plug on the transmission on the passenger side a little further forward than the drain and level plugs up on the silver portion. You need a 24mm socket or wrench for this. I have a wrench which is a pain, you can only get 1/4 turn each time, but there is plenty of clearance for a socket and ratchet. Just watch out for the exhaust pipes you will be sneaking your arms and pump hose past.

If you drain it flat and cold you only get about 2 quarts out, if you drain it on ramps you will get 4-5 quarts out in my experience.

I did my first drain/fill at 67K when i added a trans cooler, so i may have gotten that 4-5 out because of that as well. The trans fluid was already turning a lighter red/orange, and i know the previous owner was an older lady who drove to florida a lot and never towed.

-------------------
2012 SR5 w/ every option
- Trans Cooler
- Airlift 1000 (awaiting install)
- OBD-II bluetooth with Torque Pro
 
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If you drain it flat and cold you only get about 2 quarts out, if you drain it on ramps you will get 4-5 quarts out in my experience.

3-month-old thread bump!

Looking for additional confirmation as not to be left short on ATF! Found a good deal on a 4-quart pack of ATF-WS on Amazon - and would likely add 1 more quart (5 total) as I would probably plan on the "Ramp" method. Should I get 6 total quarts to be safe?

One Q - How/When do you drive off the ramps to do the actual level check procedure? It would seem the transmission fill plug would also be well below operating level while on ramps (meaning you cannot fill it anywhere near capacity while on the ramps - correct?)?

Is it safe to start & operate the tranny in a low-fluid condition (just those few feet off the ramp - move the ramps - then drive back into the level garage for the actual level-check procedure)?

Just rolled over 100K and will be doing transmission fluid, my 2nd round of diffs/transfer oil - then new spark plugs and PCV valve at my next OCI (5K away). Right before the OCI - maybe spray a little seafoam in the intake to clean up the butterfly and dry portions of the intake and some BG 44K in the gas (love that stuff!). Sounds like a fun project :) Love working on my trusty Yota!!!

:cool:
 
3-month-old thread bump!

Looking for additional confirmation as not to be left short on ATF! Found a good deal on a 4-quart pack of ATF-WS on Amazon - and would likely add 1 more quart (5 total) as I would probably plan on the "Ramp" method. Should I get 6 total quarts to be safe?

One Q - How/When do you drive off the ramps to do the actual level check procedure? It would seem the transmission fill plug would also be well below operating level while on ramps (meaning you cannot fill it anywhere near capacity while on the ramps - correct?)?

Is it safe to start & operate the tranny in a low-fluid condition (just those few feet off the ramp - move the ramps - then drive back into the level garage for the actual level-check procedure)?

Just rolled over 100K and will be doing transmission fluid, my 2nd round of diffs/transfer oil - then new spark plugs and PCV valve at my next OCI (5K away). Right before the OCI - maybe spray a little seafoam in the intake to clean up the butterfly and dry portions of the intake and some BG 44K in the gas (love that stuff!). Sounds like a fun project :) Love working on my trusty Yota!!!

:cool:

I did mine in the driveway this past summer and while there was some slope to it wouldn't be quite as much as on ramps. I did a rough measure on the drained fluid and found it was about 3.5L so I refilled the transmission with 4L and did the fluid check procedure on the flat ground of the street. No issues.

The fluid fill hole is way up on the side of the transmission so filling it shouldn't be an issue unless the truck was upside down.
 
I had Blackstone perform an oil analysis on my trans fluid at 46,xxx miles. I'll dig for the report and upload it later on.
 
To avoid concerns about running engine on ramps with low fluid in transmission, use a floor jack to elevate the front of the vehicle. If you are uncertain where to lift the front of the vehicle, see Antman's comments/photo in this thread - post #5:

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/214611-front-jack-location.html

Fast forward to 12:00 in this video below for a view of fill plug area and an idea of what the overfill tube looks like inside the pan. While this person knows more about transmissions than I ever will, you might want to disregard his comments about "driving it around" to warm up. You either need to jumper ports 4/13 on DLC3(OBD-II connector) or use techstream/scanner to ensure the fluid temp is at a specific spot. Failure to do this will result in an underfilled/overfilled transmission. The jumper technique is discussed in the Tacoma threads above.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P1XdzmjdsPo

In the video you'll see the fill plug is located on the passenger side of the tail. I've seen some A750E/A750F doc on the web showing it to be on either side. You'll have to look around. A 24mm socket is used to get the fill plug off.

Most recently I've found a couple of ebay sellers of Toyota WS fluid that ship to your front door for about $2-$3 a qt. less than dealers sell for.
 
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Thanks all - I will check the videos later. Jacks/jack stands would make more sense - and likely what I'll use. Already read up on the fluid check procedure and also have the techstream doc ready to go!

FWIW - Here is the link to the Amazon ATF-WS 4-pack for $36.80 shipped ($9.20/quart):
Amazon ATF WS 4-Pack

Anyone seen cheaper shipped in the USA?


Thanks all! :cool:
 
Anyone seen cheaper shipped in the USA?

Best deal on ebay now - seller by the name of partscontainer

12 qts. WS shipped free - comes out to about $8.66 a qt., but some states charge tax.

Even though mine is not near 60K, I did a pan change for grins. Drained with engine cold. 3 qts. in pan. Elevated with floor jack as far as it would go. Drained another qt. - 4 qts. total drained - 4 qts. refilled.

You might want to order an extra qt. just in case. I suspect everyone's WS qty. might vary a bit.

All kinds of variations seen in 2nd Gen tacomaworld.com forum.
 
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BobTrail's image above REALLY helps. I used this along with my OBD-II bluetooth sensor to check my trans pan temp (Torque Pro app with the 4runner profile from here).

There is a fill plug on the transmission on the passenger side a little further forward than the drain and level plugs up on the silver portion. You need a 24mm socket or wrench for this. I have a wrench which is a pain, you can only get 1/4 turn each time, but there is plenty of clearance for a socket and ratchet. Just watch out for the exhaust pipes you will be sneaking your arms and pump hose past.

If you drain it flat and cold you only get about 2 quarts out, if you drain it on ramps you will get 4-5 quarts out in my experience.

I did my first drain/fill at 67K when i added a trans cooler, so i may have gotten that 4-5 out because of that as well. The trans fluid was already turning a lighter red/orange, and i know the previous owner was an older lady who drove to florida a lot and never towed.

-------------------
2012 SR5 w/ every option
- Trans Cooler
- Airlift 1000 (awaiting install)
- OBD-II bluetooth with Torque Pro

Did you remove your overflow plug? There shouldn't be a requirement for lifting the truck to get everything to come out. When you remove the drain plug, there is another plug inside that is the overflow plug. It is a little tube that is about an inch and a half long. It removes with an allen wrench if I recall correctly (on the U660/U760 transmissions, anyway). The height of that little tube sets the level.

Also, FYI to everyone, if the ATF fill is the same as the U660 and U760 (it very likely is since the plant that builds the Tacoma 5AT also builds those transmissions), it is a pinkish/red color from the factory. I wouldn't use color as a judge of good or bad, either.
 
As promised, here's my blackstone results. I submitted an engine oil sample at the same time so disregard the start of the opening sentence.

lilsid112-albums-stuff-picture39624-a.jpg
 
Did you remove your overflow plug? There shouldn't be a requirement for lifting the truck to get everything to come out.

The overflow plug is used to set correct fluid level once the fluid is at the correct temp.

There's no requirement to lift the truck in the FSM, but those who've done transmission fluid changes on 1st/2nd Gen Tacoma's know from experience that lifting the front of the vehicle drains most of what's on the other side of the filter.

I found out today this holds true for the 5th Gen 4 Runner. No surprise to me as the T4R uses either an A750E(2WD) or A750F(4WD) - same as 2nd Gen Tacoma. 1st Gen Tacoma 4 bangers drained about half a qt. lifting the front end.

Repair shops use a lift, so angling the front end upwards is out of the question.

Use whatever method you prefer.
 
As promised, here's my blackstone results. I submitted an engine oil sample at the same time so disregard the start of the opening sentence.

lilsid112-albums-stuff-picture39624-a.jpg

on any vehicle a transmission will have manufacturing debris metals. I always drop the tranny pan on the first fluid change. some vehicles it is clean on others too much metal sludge.. no pan drop replacing fluid does not help if you have a lot of particles floating around. the filter is a screen so small particles will over time wear out the internal components.
 
Anyone know what the Check temp should be?

104 to 113 degF. But if you put it in temp check mode, you won't need to measure it, it will be indicated by the 'D' indicator in your dash. While in temp check mode if 'D' is off, you're too cold, if 'D' is flashing, you're too hot, if 'D' is solid, you're just right. See the link in my sig for more info and some links to other helpful threads.
 

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