Transmission Issues (Clunk and Reverse issue)

[levee-11]

Hey everyone. Couple problems...

Problem 1:

Today I started my 4Runner in my garage and it was probably 55 degrees in there so not cold. I gave it a couple seconds to idle and then put it in reverse and took foot off the brake and no movement. It was still in park. I put it back in park, back in reverse and nothing again. Then back in park and there was a loud clunk coming from transmission area. Put it in reverse after that and it worked fine. What do you think this is? Could it have just been stuck trying to get out of park? It’s an auto and I always pull my parking break before taking my foot off the break so there’s never any stress on the parking pawl. Transmission has 230k but shifts great in drive and it’s very well maintained, new fluid about 15k miles ago. Would just like to know if it could just be a one time thing that just happened or a sign that there’s gonna be more problems.


Problem 2:

When it’s cold and I shift from park to drive or reverse, it clunks. Don’t think it’s my u-joints. I greased them not to long ago but I might have missed some of the zerks. It won’t do it when I shift when it’s warm and been driven only when it’s cold

Any help for any of these problems would be great. Mostly worried about the reverse thing that happened today. Thanks.


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[spartacus]

Hey everyone. Couple problems...

Problem 1:

Today I started my 4Runner in my garage and it was probably 55 degrees in there so not cold. I gave it a couple seconds to idle and then put it in reverse and took foot off the brake and no movement. It was still in park. I put it back in park, back in reverse and nothing again. Then back in park and there was a loud clunk coming from transmission area. Put it in reverse after that and it worked fine. What do you think this is? Could it have just been stuck trying to get out of park? It’s an auto and I always pull my parking break before taking my foot off the break so there’s never any stress on the parking pawl. Transmission has 230k but shifts great in drive and it’s very well maintained, new fluid about 15k miles ago. Would just like to know if it could just be a one time thing that just happened or a sign that there’s gonna be more problems.


Problem 2:

When it’s cold and I shift from park to drive or reverse, it clunks. Don’t think it’s my u-joints. I greased them not to long ago but I might have missed some of the zerks. It won’t do it when I shift when it’s warm and been driven only when it’s cold

Any help for any of these problems would be great. Mostly worried about the reverse thing that happened today. Thanks.


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When it's cold and on startup the rpms are higher to warm up the vehicle thus more force exerted on the drive shafts making the u joint clunk, fairly normal if you've already greased the joints. I would still check the atf level at operating temp to make sure it's not low. Sometimes you have to put your foot on the gas pedal just a tiny bit to get it moving from a cold start. Normal idiocyncracies of an old truck.

 

[plcfcng]

I would also look at the fluid color you may need to service the Transmission. If you have no history on this it would be a good idea to pull the pan clean the pan and look at whats in it. I do a compete purge of the fluid doing Tim's Method.:artist2:

 

[phil777]

When I was having issues with clunking I greased all the joints underneath (which it sounds like you did but just in case there are some good posts that outline where everything is and which grease to use as well as how to grease the slip yokes safely). The clunking continued for awhile after greasing but eventually went away, I assume it just took time for the grease to work its way out of the slip joints. You might be in a similar situation depending on when you greased them but either way I would follow the other recommendations for your ATF etc. as well.

 

[levee-11]

I would also look at the fluid color you may need to service the Transmission. If you have no history on this it would be a good idea to pull the pan clean the pan and look at whats in it. I do a compete purge of the fluid doing Tim's Method.:artist2:

Hmm okay. I have all the history and checked the atf not too long ago. It’s got pretty fresh fluid in it and was maintained super meticulously for its 21 years when I bought it last year. That’s why I’m wondering why this happened. Transmission has had no problems before in its lifetime.

 

[plcfcng]

Now a question is this a one time event or something that can be repeated? If it did not move at start up and the clunk should be looked at as two diffrent items. I agree with the above grease the U joints if you can if you can not check each one. The best way to do this is chalk any drive wheels or lift them off the ground have some one shift it from park to Rev and then to drive to locate the noise. The not moving maybe early signs of a problem maybe not. Start by checking tire pressure and while the wheels are up check for brake drag. if the fluid level is correct just keep and eye on things and plan as need for replacement if it comes to that. Good Luck:yo:

 

[mtbtim]

I think there's a chance your rear brake shoes aren't automatically separating from the face of the drum after you release your parking brake. Your shoes might have been contaminated with gear oil due to your rear axle seals leaking and the shoes have swelled a bit from absorbing the gear oil. Jack up the rear end, remove your wheels, remove your drums and check it out. You'll know right away once the drum is off if gear oil has contaminated your shoes.

This video will help you out.

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/IJkVEBYSecs" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>

 

[levee-11]

I think there's a chance your rear brake shoes aren't automatically separating from the face of the drum after you release your parking brake. Your shoes might have been contaminated with gear oil due to your rear axle seals leaking and the shoes have swelled a bit from absorbing the gear oil. Jack up the rear end, remove your wheels, remove your drums and check it out. You'll know right away once the drum is off if gear oil has contaminated your shoes.

Thanks, I just replaced the rear axle seals, and redid the rear brakes, and theres been no leaking since, but could something else be causing the brake shoes to stick?

 

[JROTN]

Trans. issue

When you put it in reverse with your foot on the brake and the truck didn't move did you notice the RPM's drop?

Is this the only time it happened?

How long did the truck sit prior to trying to back out of garage?

 

[levee-11]

When you put it in reverse with your foot on the brake and the truck didn't move did you notice the RPM's drop?

Is this the only time it happened?

How long did the truck sit prior to trying to back out of garage?

This is the only time it happened. The truck was sitting for about a minute, and I did not notice a change in RPM's. When I shifted it I remember thinking, "oh that was a smooth shift." But that's because nothing happened. It wasn't until I took my foot off the brake and it didn't move when I realized it didn't engage reverse.

 

[JROTN]

Transmission issue

Maybe I should have worded one question differently.

How long was the truck sitting in the garage prior to starting it, to back it out when this happened?

If the RPM's didn't drop the transmission was not engaged.
mtbtim had a good point about brake shoes. If they are hung up the truck wouldn't move, but RPM's would drop when reverse engaged.

make sure you check the fluid level correctly when it is hot and look at both sides of the stick when checking the level. Sounds stupid but that's a long filler tube and has a bend in it. I've seen a lot of transmissions when you check fluid level you need to look at both sides of the stick to get a correct reading.

 

[Gen2truckGen5glock]

My 1995 4R with the 3.0 and automatic is having issues now. I went to leave, put it D but it’s actually in 3rd gear it feels like. Bringing the shifter straight back to L (1st) works good so does 2nd and reverse. I find this odd I don’t think it’s the shift linkage to from what I’ve been reading it might be the throttle position sensor but my engine revs up fine. I also heard it may be the vehicle speed sensor not telling the transmission what to do? Any help would be appreciated

 

[Toy2play]

Thanks, I just replaced the rear axle seals, and redid the rear brakes, and theres been no leaking since, but could something else be causing the brake shoes to stick?

When was the last time you checked to see if the axle seal was leaking? Just because you havent noticed any leaks doesn't mean it wont start eventually. It may not be a bad leak, just enough to get the shoes to swell up. I agree with mtbtim, I've had similar symptoms of this and it was contaminated brake shoes on one side of the axle. I've also had a seal last only 6 months and started leaking again. It's worth checking it off the list, it's easy and free to check.