Transmission not shifting when cold

[murderface]

Having exact same symptoms as this thread here: https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-...ting-when-cold-yes-i-know-its-normal-but.html . I've read the entire thread and saw he needed a trans replacement. First test I ran was unplugging the solenoid and it shifted manually. Based off this info, what would need to be done to fix it? Replace solenoids?

 

[jgue467]

Have you tried new fluid yet?

When my trans wouldn't do the 1-2 shift without me letting off the throttle, a full flush did the trick. Luck.

 

[RadMan69]

I too am having this delayed shift on my rig, I have been planning to get a flush soon anyway, but definitely after reading this!

 

[thegipper]

Gipper here, author of said post.

It's a good thing that it shifts manually, that leads me to believe that you may just have a faulty solenoid and not the failure I had.

Do the easy/obvious stuff first, check the level of your fluid and the condition.

I would then drop the pan, replace the filter, inspect/test the solenoids and replace the fluid. There are three tests that need to be done for each solenoid:

1. 12v power to the solenoid checking that it opens and closes
2. Ohm test (should be between 11-15 ohm)
3. Pressure test, solenoid should be able to hold 71 psi of air pressure and not leak

If they fail any of these tests, replace them.

And just to be clear, it is 100% normal for the transmission to not shift from 2nd into 3rd gear until the truck warms up a bit. It is NOT normal for it to not shift out of 1st gear no matter how cold it is, that's what mine was doing.

Bad solenoids won't always throw a code, keep that in mind.

 

[jross20]

Gipper here, author of said post.

It's a good thing that it shifts manually, that leads me to believe that you may just have a faulty solenoid and not the failure I had.

Do the easy/obvious stuff first, check the level of your fluid and the condition.

I would then drop the pan, replace the filter, inspect/test the solenoids and replace the fluid. There are three tests that need to be done for each solenoid:

1. 12v power to the solenoid checking that it opens and closes
2. Ohm test (should be between 11-15 ohm)
3. Pressure test, solenoid should be able to hold 71 psi of air pressure and not leak

If they fail any of these tests, replace them.

And just to be clear, it is 100% normal for the transmission to not shift from 2nd into 3rd gear until the truck warms up a bit. It is NOT normal for it to not shift out of 1st gear no matter how cold it is, that's what mine was doing.

Bad solenoids won't always throw a code, keep that in mind.

My girl has a delay shifting into 3rd when she is cold. The first shift into 3rd is also a pretty strong bump (but not a violent jerk). She also makes a semi loud (but not violent sounding) noise when I am slowing to come to a stop. I think it is when she shifts back into 1st.

Is there anyway to test solenoids without dropping the pan? I feel like if I am going to drop the pan I might as well replace all of them if they are not too expensive... A 20 year old solenoid is pretty old I reckon.

 

[phattyduck]

My girl has a delay shifting into 3rd when she is cold. The first shift into 3rd is also a pretty strong bump (but not a violent jerk). She also makes a semi loud (but not violent sounding) noise when I am slowing to come to a stop. I think it is when she shifts back into 1st.

Is there anyway to test solenoids without dropping the pan? I feel like if I am going to drop the pan I might as well replace all of them if they are not too expensive... A 20 year old solenoid is pretty old I reckon.

The delayed shift into 3rd when cold is NORMAL. 100% as designed. It helps both the engine and trans head up.

Check rear driveshaft lube for the clunk when coming to a stop (slip joint splines, specifically).

-Charlie

 

[gamefreakgc]

My girl has a delay shifting into 3rd when she is cold. The first shift into 3rd is also a pretty strong bump (but not a violent jerk). She also makes a semi loud (but not violent sounding) noise when I am slowing to come to a stop. I think it is when she shifts back into 1st.

Is there anyway to test solenoids without dropping the pan? I feel like if I am going to drop the pan I might as well replace all of them if they are not too expensive... A 20 year old solenoid is pretty old I reckon.

You just described my 4Runner from 3 years ago!

Two separate things. The hard shift into 3rd is completely normal. If it bothers you, switch to full synthetic trans fluid and that goes away. The delay is just because of fluid temp and it needs to warm up more.

Slowing to the stop, it's like a humm/grind/whirr coming from the rear correct? Most likely it's your rear diff bearings on their way out. Not an urgent fix, just an annoying one. You only hear it when you are slowing down with 0 throttle right?

 

[jross20]

You just described my 4Runner from 3 years ago!

Two separate things. The hard shift into 3rd is completely normal. If it bothers you, switch to full synthetic trans fluid and that goes away. The delay is just because of fluid temp and it needs to warm up more.

Slowing to the stop, it's like a humm/grind/whirr coming from the rear correct? Most likely it's your rear diff bearings on their way out. Not an urgent fix, just an annoying one. You only hear it when you are slowing down with 0 throttle right?

Ah okay as long as my 3rd gear is fine I'm happy.:naughty:

Well I don't think that is the same kind of sound. This is a quick "shift" kind of sound vs a long drawn out sound if that makes any sense. Like a clunk sound maybe? I'll try to get a recording of it. She does not always do it.

 

[Satter]

Some of y’all are recommending a tranny flush. I thought a flush in old transmissions was a big no no?

 

[19963.4lsr5]

The only time I have the delay shift into third with a cold trans is if I’m driving below 35mph. If I leave my house and hit the main road (422) it will go into overdrive with lockup right away.

My Cummins on the other hand will not engage overdrive until the fluid hits 40 degrees. And it won’t lock up the torque converter until 50 degrees.


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[tvpierce]

Some of y’all are recommending a tranny flush. I thought a flush in old transmissions was a big no no?

I've posted this before, but here it is again.

This comes up a lot, and there seems to be confusion surrounding the word "flush". Let's see if we can add some clarity.

For starters, some definitions:

1) Drain & fill: as simple as it gets. Remove the plug, most of the contents of the transmission pan is drained, re-install plug, and refill with the same amount of fluid that was drained. This replaces about 1/3 of the total capacity of fluid in the transmission.

2) Flush: remove the output/return line from the transmission cooler, run a piece of vinyl tubing from the cooler output to a one gallon container with quart markings, start the engine and run it until 2 quarts of fluid is pumped out (about 10 -15 seconds), turn off engine. Add 2 quarts of ATF through the dipstick tube, and repeat until the fluid coming out of the cooler looks as clean as the new fluid going in. This is generally done following a drain & fill.

3) Power Flush: this is a service sold at some repair facilities and dealerships. It requires special equipment that connects to the tansmission cooler lines, then draws old fluid out of the transmission and pumps new fluid in.

The Power Flush (#3) is the service that's frequently warned against that can apparently have some ill affects -- although I have no first hand experience with the process or any resulting problems.

The Flush (#2) is perfectly safe and will give you the best results for replacing the fluid in your transmission. It operates the transmission exactly as it operates whenever the engine is running. The only difference is that instead of recirculating old fluid, you're removing it, and replacing it with new. It will take a lot of fluid -- 20+ quarts -- to do completely and properly. But you'll know you're starting with a transmission full of clean, new fluid. Follow up with your periodic drain & fill (#1) and your transmission will last a long, long time.

This process has been done for decades with RWD Volvo cars which use a similar Aisin Warner transmission (in fact the later model 960s and V90s used this exact A340 transmission). Automatic transmission failures are virtually unheard of in those vehicles even with many hundreds of thousands of miles.

 

[brillo_76]

I've posted this before, but here it is again.



This comes up a lot, and there seems to be confusion surrounding the word "flush". Let's see if we can add some clarity.



For starters, some definitions:



1) Drain & fill: as simple as it gets. Remove the plug, most of the contents of the transmission pan is drained, re-install plug, and refill with the same amount of fluid that was drained. This replaces about 1/3 of the total capacity of fluid in the transmission.



2) Flush: remove the output/return line from the transmission cooler, run a piece of vinyl tubing from the cooler output to a one gallon container with quart markings, start the engine and run it until 2 quarts of fluid is pumped out (about 10 -15 seconds), turn off engine. Add 2 quarts of ATF through the dipstick tube, and repeat until the fluid coming out of the cooler looks as clean as the new fluid going in. This is generally done following a drain & fill.



3) Power Flush: this is a service sold at some repair facilities and dealerships. It requires special equipment that connects to the tansmission cooler lines, then draws old fluid out of the transmission and pumps new fluid in.



The Power Flush (#3) is the service that's frequently warned against that can apparently have some ill affects -- although I have no first hand experience with the process or any resulting problems.



The Flush (#2) is perfectly safe and will give you the best results for replacing the fluid in your transmission. It operates the transmission exactly as it operates whenever the engine is running. The only difference is that instead of recirculating old fluid, you're removing it, and replacing it with new. It will take a lot of fluid -- 20+ quarts -- to do completely and properly. But you'll know you're starting with a transmission full of clean, new fluid. Follow up with your periodic drain & fill (#1) and your transmission will last a long, long time.



This process has been done for decades with RWD Volvo cars which use a similar Aisin Warner transmission (in fact the later model 960s and V90s used this exact A340 transmission). Automatic transmission failures are virtually unheard of in those vehicles even with many hundreds of thousands of miles.

This is 100 correct. I do the exchange fluid and pump the fuild back in instead of pouring it in the dip stick hole with a small oil pump.


I use graduated 5 gallon buckets. So I can match what came in with what came out and it works. Very well for exchanging [flush] the fluid.


Those other machine flushes I would never do as it's always best to keep the fluid flowing in the directions it always goes and at the normal pressures.

That's why I call this method exchanging fluid. Not to confuse this with powerful flush machines.

All the methods listed above with work. Just stay away from the machine flush at all costs.

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[3bears]

if you don't want to do the "flush", you can just do a drain and fill a few times. Some people, drain and refill, just start, go through the gears, shut off and re-drain and fill. Some people will drive a few miles and then redo drain and fill and ive read that some people do it on engine oil change for a few times.
what your basically doing is getting all the fluids that wont drain right away..esp that held in torque converter.
where as a flush gets it done at one time and I assume does not cross contaminate new and old fluid as easily.

Have a new crush washer on hand for drain pan, and do NOT over-torque drain pan bolt...they do strip...and its not a fun repair....

and of course many will drop the pan on the first time, ( I did) clean or change the filter and clean all the gunk out of pan and fuzz off magnets

for me, with a remote magnafine filter and cooler set up, its no big deal to pull a hose and do a flush