transmission issues

[sidneyhop]

ugg...having some transmission issues.

v8 4x4. Around 200k miles and for a year or so Ive been having a delayed shift from R and N into D. I replaced the drive shaft and it seemed to help a little, but the delay was still there from time to time. (I also flushed the trans fluid and replaced the filter about a year ago but the delayed shift was still happening before the flush. Fluid level is correct)

A month or so ago it started delaying the shift from 1st to 2nd occasionally, and when it did shift it was a hard shift.

Within the past week or so that delay has increased with higher rpms and seemed to be from 1st to 2nd and maybe 2nd to 3rd. Sometimes it wont shift and I have to bring the rpms down and up until it catches the next gear. Occasionally it throws me into limp mode now too.

Pulled a code P2714 Pressure control solenoid D stuck off. (SLT Solenoid) so I replaced that. Tested the old one and it was fine (5.6 ohms and worked with 12v applied)

No improvement with the shifting. Then threw another code.. P0771 solenoid E stuck off as well as the P2714 again.

I pulled valve body and installed a full transgo rebuild kit as well as an accumulator piston and a pr boost valve. No improvement.

When I had the vb out I looked at the clutches and they seemed to be fine without anything blued or burnt. Also nothing in the pan as far as metal...just a tiny bit of metal dust.

If I did need to swap out the trans, what vehicles can I use as donors? v6 and v8's the same trans?....just as long as its 4x4.

Thanks for any insight!

 

[AuSeeker]

ugg...having some transmission issues.

v8 4x4. Around 200k miles and for a year or so Ive been having a delayed shift from R and N into D. I replaced the drive shaft and it seemed to help a little, but the delay was still there from time to time. (I also flushed the trans fluid and replaced the filter about a year ago but the delayed shift was still happening before the flush. Fluid level is correct)

A month or so ago it started delaying the shift from 1st to 2nd occasionally, and when it did shift it was a hard shift.

Within the past week or so that delay has increased with higher rpms and seemed to be from 1st to 2nd and maybe 2nd to 3rd. Sometimes it wont shift and I have to bring the rpms down and up until it catches the next gear. Occasionally it throws me into limp mode now too.

Pulled a code P2714 Pressure control solenoid D stuck off. (SLT Solenoid) so I replaced that. Tested the old one and it was fine (5.6 ohms and worked with 12v applied)

No improvement with the shifting. Then threw another code.. P0771 solenoid E stuck off as well as the P2714 again.

I pulled valve body and installed a full transgo rebuild kit as well as an accumulator piston and a pr boost valve. No improvement.

When I had the vb out I looked at the clutches and they seemed to be fine without anything blued or burnt. Also nothing in the pan as far as metal...just a tiny bit of metal dust.

If I did need to swap out the trans, what vehicles can I use as donors? v6 and v8's the same trans?....just as long as its 4x4.

Thanks for any insight!

Have you checked the electrical connector, it's on the driver's side of the transmission, the pins in the connector have been know to get corroded and lose connection, the connector is hard to get too, you can get a better look at the pins after disconnecting it using your cellphone to take photos or videos, some have cut a "window" in the hump/floor sheet metal on 3 sides and folded the sheet metal out of the way to get better access to the connector from the inside.

I know there at least a couple of threads on the forum about how to go about fixing or replacing the connector, there's also some YouTube videos on trying to fix the connector, some clean the connector and then carefully drill and replace any bad pins with small drill bits or wire.

 

[MikeinNH67]

Check the connector like AuSeeker mentions. Look up Mustie1 and 4runner on YT and you'll find a video on the issue. Crusty connections are somewhat common up here in the rust belt, I wouldn't think as common in FL but worth a look.

 

[Clianthe JO]

Oh, I hope this is what I was looking for and will help me.

 

[rdruss]

Until I'm proven wrong, I think the subject connector, which is the trans wiring harness, can be changed by dropping the trans pan and maybe the valve body too. Watching videos on trans work has led me to this conclusion.

 

[daprotege5]

how's the fluid, theirs alot of fluid in that torque converter.......
my friend's 04 was having issues as well, the first couple gears wouldn't shift and 5th gear was struggling to shift. so we did a filter change and 2 drain in fills so far in the last month.

he's reported that the issue is slightly still there, but its shifting way smoother and going through all the gears. so a couple more drain and fills and hopefully resolves his issue. he was stoked he didn't have to buy a new tranny so hopefully issues disappears after a couple more drains and fills.

 

[sidneyhop]

Have you checked the electrical connector, it's on the driver's side of the transmission, the pins in the connector have been know to get corroded and lose connection, the connector is hard to get too, you can get a better look at the pins after disconnecting it using your cellphone to take photos or videos, some have cut a "window" in the hump/floor sheet metal on 3 sides and folded the sheet metal out of the way to get better access to the connector from the inside.

I know there at least a couple of threads on the forum about how to go about fixing or replacing the connector, there's also some YouTube videos on trying to fix the connector, some clean the connector and then carefully drill and replace any bad pins with small drill bits or wire.

Thanks for the info. I know the connector youre talking about. Ive been looking online at a bunch of used trans for sale in case Ill need to do a swap and see it clearly. Ill pull the plug and put some die electric grease in there to protect it from water in the future.

Heres a bit of an update. I took my truck into the shop in hopes they could diagnose exactly what the issue was and they did a complete reset of the computer so it would need to relearn the conditions etc. Well, turns out the valve body rebuild did the trick. Its running great now! Even the converter shutter is a lot less. Hope this helps someone who's experiencing the same issues cause the full VB rebuild is not expensive at all and not hard either. Just be sure to reset the computer after somewhere that has that type of scanner (auto zone scanners are not the same and wont work the same).