transmission oil addictive

[Koz]

Again, if the idiot light does not come on "LEAVE THE TRANS ALONE"!

Have you heard of ANYONE losing a trans because they didn't change their fluid (on a sealed trans)? The only issues I've heard of was from people who have changed (tried) the fluid. These trans have been out there long enough to know if this is a problem. I know it's hard see this, but this is a case of the old saying "if it ain't broke, don't fix it".

Koz

 

[Koz]

As far as additives, do yourself a favor and do not use ANY additives unless it is absolutely the last resort (even then I would not use them). I suggest to NEVER put an additive in a (sealed) Toyota trans. Additives are chemicals and are the first thing to break down and cause contamination and real problems.

Koz

 

[BlackWorksInc]

Again, if the idiot light does not come on "LEAVE THE TRANS ALONE"!

Have you heard of ANYONE losing a trans because they didn't change their fluid (on a sealed trans)? The only issues I've heard of was from people who have changed (tried) the fluid. These trans have been out there long enough to know if this is a problem. I know it's hard see this, but this is a case of the old saying "if it ain't broke, don't fix it".

Koz

I haven't seen one fail yet, but I have seen a few cases of older sealed units shifting poorly that were corrected with a fluid change. I haven't seen too many of them, but after a half dozen I have started to suspect that the fluid just cannot hold up past 100-150k without at least a drain and fill.

I am willing to agree to dissagree, I just don't see how the fluid can stand up to such abuse over such a long course of mileage, all the other "lifetime" ATF fluids I have seen in other cars don't seem to fare much better than the Toyota stuff after 150k and that is not "lifetime" in my eyes.

As far as additives, do yourself a favor and do not use ANY additives unless it is absolutely the last resort (even then I would not use them). I suggest to NEVER putting an additive in a (sealed) Toyota trans. Additives are chemicals and are the first thing to break down and cause contamination and real problems.

Koz

100% Agree with Koz on this, I don't see a single reason to use a transmission fluid additive for these transmissions or honestly any transmission. Most of those additives are stop-gap measures to keep the transmission going as it either starts to fail or needs a fluid flush. Its kind of like Radiator Stop-Leak, it works okay for what you need it, but it only is a bandage.

 

[Koz]

If the fluid needs to be changed use this;

AMSOIL - Synthetic Fuel Efficient Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATL)

It has proven to stand up to BIG hp!

Koz

 

[BlackWorksInc]

If towing, the WS fluid should be replaced every 60k miles according to my '08 Scheduled Maintenance Guide.

That was something I had forgotten about, I looked up the "severe service tables" and you're right, it says to replace at 60k and then follow up with replacement ever 30k... That's a weird descrepency, that makes me suspect of the fluid's "lifetime" claim.

And I want to switch to that Amsoil Fluid once my extended warranty runs out, its gotten great reveiws.

 

[4fourrunner]

all,

I went TOYOTA and got trany oil flushed and put TOYOTA WS oil,
How soon can I notice any improvement?
a couple of days driving? or one month?
Thanks,

 

[wvuviv30]

If you need transmission work, I would look at taking it to Toyota or finding a Transmission Specialty shop (AAMCO doesn't count).

Here is a link to give you an idea of a few reputable shops: Transmission Repair and Problem solving Experts | ATRA

When I needed to have the trans rebuilt in my Express cargo van, I talked to a few general mechanic shop and I found out that over half said they would not touch an automatics; a few said they only change fluid & filter and one said they would replace with a reman unit.

AAMCO would only give me a price "starting" of $1200 to replace clutch pack; but said it "could" run upwards of $5000 for an OEM rebuild.

I had my trans rebuilt with all new parts and upgraded my trans for $4000 (HD Billet Torque convertor, HD/Towing clutch pack, Stage 2 Trans Go shift kit & large 22x10 trans cooler).

 

[4fourrunner]

today I found some solution for my problem-trany

still slippy and rough gear change from 1~2, 2~3, but a little better 3~4...after trany flush with Lucas add-in.

Today, I tried to drive with "2" position trany gear and no problem from start upto 40~50miles, and then change it to "D" position...

My questions:

1) Is this OK to drive in "2" position?

2) Is it OK to shift from "2" to "D" during Driving?

Thank you,

 

[Atlanta_man]

seriously ... Lucas ?

gotta admit he is a success story - developed his first additives in his garage

 

[eli_lilly]

What Koz said... don't add a bunch of snake oil to the transmission. If it's not shifting right, have it looked at. It could be something relatively cheap like the pressure solenoid...

-E

 

[4fourrunner]

here is the diagnostic report:

P0306 Cylinder 6 misfire detected
P0771 Shift Solenoid "E" Performace or Stuck OFF
P0985 Shift Solenoid "E" Control Circuit Low
P0986 Shift Solenoid "E" Control Circuit High
P2714 Pressure Control Solenoid "D" Performace or Stuck OFF

What do I need to do?
How much it cost?
Thank you,

 

[wvuviv30]

here is the diagnostic report:

P0306 Cylinder 6 misfire detected
P0771 Shift Solenoid "E" Performace or Stuck OFF
P0985 Shift Solenoid "E" Control Circuit Low
P0986 Shift Solenoid "E" Control Circuit High
P2714 Pressure Control Solenoid "D" Performace or Stuck OFF

What do I need to do?
How much it cost?
Thank you,

I would take it to Toyota for a quote and then find a Transmission Specialty shop (AAMCO doesn't count) and ask for a Quote.

I had my Express Cargo van's transmission rebuilt (code: P0894 = Transmission Component Slipping). AAMCO said it TCC (torque convert control) solenoid was out of spec and clutch packs needed to be replaced after a test drive and according to their diagnostic computer. I then took the van up to a reputable trans shop, he drop the pan (in front of me) and there was plastic chunks in sitting there (the OEM torque converter fins are made of plastic). So I had him rebuild the transmission and beef'ed it up; he said "your van can now make 1000 ft/torque without any problems".

 

[_JT_]

If the fluid needs to be changed use this;

AMSOIL - Synthetic Fuel Efficient Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATL)

It has proven to stand up to BIG hp!

Koz

Ended up switching over to the amsoil ATF on my sealed trans 3k miles ago. Everything was fine up until Saturday and I couldn't get into OD driving on back roads. Pulled the codes, P2714 and P0776. Solenoid's getting stuck, taking it back to have the solenoids looked at. Would I be better off having toyota WS if my mechanic is seeing wear?