Transmission Rebuild - Disbelief
- Thread starter mrHUGE
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AddictedOffroad
New member
Huh. Well, it definitely sounds electrical at this point.
FWIW, I have a 97' 4x4 4runner in the pic n pull locally that I could grab a tranny out of. I bet I could get it to you for around $500-$600. Obviously its a crap shoot though.
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Bamf_CT2004
Guest
Disconnecting the wiring harness and still not having OD/4th gear confirms you have at minimum a valve body issue. If you were able to get OD/4th gear while the shift lever was in D you would have an electrical problem
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Bamf I 100% agree unless it is possible for the auto tranny shifter to not be in the mode (D,2,L) that looks like it is in. Is that even possible?
Addicted, I am on the lookout for a tranny on the cheap but I am going to get a second opinion on the 4runner before making the move.
Where are some good places to search for donor trannies other than calling around to salvage yards and car-part.com?
Addicted, I am on the lookout for a tranny on the cheap but I am going to get a second opinion on the 4runner before making the move.
Where are some good places to search for donor trannies other than calling around to salvage yards and car-part.com?
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Bamf_CT2004
Guest
Check your linkage. I have heard of the linkage getting loosened up alittle and the Shift lever an Park Neutral switch were out of sink when the shift lever was in D but at the Park Neutral switch the linkage was in 2. But if this was the case you be shifting at higher shift points. But might be the reason why you are not getting OD/4th gear when you have the wiring harness disconnected. Im thinking its very unlikely but its easy to check
Nelsonmd
New member
It is on the drivers side of the TC and transmission. Crawl under on that side and you will see it.
Mine is super rusty.
Well, its now in the shop. I will let everyone know how the rebuild goes. Should I request a rebuild kit from IPT? Should I get the steel bands replaced regardless or only if there are signs of wear. Hopefully I don't have any hard parts to replace. I can't imagine that I do. The shop will be showing me the transmission once they have it torn apart so I can see what happened.
Here is my guess:
It seems like the transmission must have overheated. I don't know exactly how it happened but I did install a 70268 immediately after purchasing it. The only thing that I can reference is the transmission fluid was noticeably browner when I dropped the pan vs what was in the stock transmission cooler. I know transmission fluid was flowing through the cooler because I would feel the lines as well as the cooler. Nothing ever felt anything more than warm. I even felt the pan a few times. I really wish I had bought a Scangauge before I made the change.
Here is my guess:
It seems like the transmission must have overheated. I don't know exactly how it happened but I did install a 70268 immediately after purchasing it. The only thing that I can reference is the transmission fluid was noticeably browner when I dropped the pan vs what was in the stock transmission cooler. I know transmission fluid was flowing through the cooler because I would feel the lines as well as the cooler. Nothing ever felt anything more than warm. I even felt the pan a few times. I really wish I had bought a Scangauge before I made the change.
simmonsauto
New member
Hey there, just curious what you have heard from the shop... Unfortunately it does sound like an internal mechanical issue. Found an archive in the iatn that might help.
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Tony from Georgia
Jul 28, 2006 9:53:42 PM
P0755 is for a #2 solenoid circuit electrical fault, not mechanical. You say that you found the solenoid working properly, I assume you straight wired it and gave it the benefit of unlimited current, if it's resistnce has gone too low this can allow it to function, the PCM only has limited current capacity and may be unable to control it if this is the case (low resistance). Check the actual amp draw on the solenoid, it should be from .8 to 1.1 amps, anything higher would indicate the amp draw being too high and causing it to fail the test when commanded on, too low would give a failure when commanded off. You also have the possibility of a PCM driver failure, monitor voltage on the power side of the #2 solenoid at the PCM, it should be high with sol commanded on and near 0 with sol commanded off (actually it should measure 11-15 ohms to ground when commanded off). If the fault is in the solenoid or control circuit, you should only have two forward gears, if you have three gears, you have a internal mechanical issue, a solenoid not operating will affect two gears, in the case of a #2 solenoid failure it would have 1st and O/D by failsafe operation. I'd recommend disconnecting the trans harness and trying a mechanical shift check, low range=1st gear, manual 2=3rd gear, drive range=O/D. If all this checks out, you may have a PCM fault.
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Tony from Georgia
Jul 28, 2006 9:53:42 PM
P0755 is for a #2 solenoid circuit electrical fault, not mechanical. You say that you found the solenoid working properly, I assume you straight wired it and gave it the benefit of unlimited current, if it's resistnce has gone too low this can allow it to function, the PCM only has limited current capacity and may be unable to control it if this is the case (low resistance). Check the actual amp draw on the solenoid, it should be from .8 to 1.1 amps, anything higher would indicate the amp draw being too high and causing it to fail the test when commanded on, too low would give a failure when commanded off. You also have the possibility of a PCM driver failure, monitor voltage on the power side of the #2 solenoid at the PCM, it should be high with sol commanded on and near 0 with sol commanded off (actually it should measure 11-15 ohms to ground when commanded off). If the fault is in the solenoid or control circuit, you should only have two forward gears, if you have three gears, you have a internal mechanical issue, a solenoid not operating will affect two gears, in the case of a #2 solenoid failure it would have 1st and O/D by failsafe operation. I'd recommend disconnecting the trans harness and trying a mechanical shift check, low range=1st gear, manual 2=3rd gear, drive range=O/D. If all this checks out, you may have a PCM fault.
RescueMonkey wins the prize!
Well, somehow/someway one of the snap rings that holds the OD drum came out of its groove in the transmission. Transmission guy hasn't really seen it happen before and couldn't explain how it happened. He knew something was up as soon as he pulled the valve body off. He could see there were several OD clutches MIA.
I guess the good news is the transmission is very clean and in good shape. He is rebuilding it and should have it back to me early next week.
Well, somehow/someway one of the snap rings that holds the OD drum came out of its groove in the transmission. Transmission guy hasn't really seen it happen before and couldn't explain how it happened. He knew something was up as soon as he pulled the valve body off. He could see there were several OD clutches MIA.
I guess the good news is the transmission is very clean and in good shape. He is rebuilding it and should have it back to me early next week.
theizzardking
New member
while your in there you might want to upgrade the clutch packs to something a bit better and maybe shim the springs, i mean hey if it's already apart why not add a bit of durability to it? not saying to mess with the tq converter or anything maybe just some better material clutch packs or one that has an extra disc in it or 2.
