Transmission rumble solution?

[Lowetony]

Like many of you, I too had the transmission rumble strip feeling in the 40-50 mph range on my 2004 SR5/V8,4WD with 130k miles. Recently, I was told by the Toyota dealer that my right rear wheel bearing needed to be replaced, and dealer cost was about $800. I took it to my regular trusted mechanic, and he told me that when he removed the rear axle my pinion bearing in rear end was also bad. He replaced the pinion bearing, inner and outer race, as well as the RR wheel bearing.
When I left his shop I noticed the tranny rumble was gone. I work on my cars, but I'm not a mechanic. My question to the Forum- Is it possible that the rumble problem is not with the transmission, but caused by a failing pinion gear or a wheel bearing? Interested in your thoughts.

 

[Ratubbs]

I'll be keeping an eye on this one... only trouble is doing both repairs at the same time makes it hard to pinpoint...


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[JT_4Runner]

I purchased my 4R with 150k and it had the rumble strip when shifting up under slow to normal acceleration. Did a complete flush of the tranny and the tcase and put in some additive and I have not had a problem since.

 

[Ausumm]

Is the "rumble" a low frequency vibration when accelerating?
I didn't know it had a name..
and I didn't know that it was a common 4R problem.

 

[JT_4Runner]

Is the "rumble" a low frequency vibration when accelerating?
I didn't know it had a name..
and I didn't know that it was a common 4R problem.

My "rumble" could sometimes barely be felt and other times it would shake the whole vehicle. It depended on how hard I was getting on the gas. If I took it out of Overdrive and put it in 4 I would not have an issue. Once i got up to speed I could put it back into overdrive and all would be well.

I wouldnt really call it a design flaw or bad engineering. Its just that Toyota says that the fluid in the tranny and tcase is "lifetime fluid" which is simply not the case. If you look harder you will find that they also say in the "fine print" of sorts that it needs to be changed at 100k.

When I drained my fluid it was black like tar and so broken down that it was the consistency of water. I used somewhere around 15qts to do a complete flush and refill of the tranny/tcase.

 

[CookieRoe]

Get this:

Exchanging the ATF certainly helps, but will not cure it. Lots of thread about this.


I've been shudder free for a long time b/c of this tube.

 

[JT_4Runner]

Get this:

Exchanging the ATF certainly helps, but will not cure it. Lots of thread about this.


I've been shudder free for a long time b/c of this tube.

Either this or the BG atf additive which is what I used. Either will work.

 

[CookieRoe]

Either this or the BG atf additive which is what I used. Either will work.

Good to know. I ALMOST got Lucas anti-rumble-whatever-its-called and was quickly told that will make things worse. Additionally, other forum members told us to get the Dr. Tranny product.

 

[JT_4Runner]

Good to know. I ALMOST got Lucas anti-rumble-whatever-its-called and was quickly told that will make things worse. Additionally, other forum members told us to get the Dr. Tranny product.

The only reason that I went with the BG is because my father uses it at his shop extensively and can get a deal on it.

 

[Lowetony]

My mechanic also swears by the Dr. Tranny product, but my question remains... Is it possible the shudder felt at 45-50mph could be caused by a failing pinion gear in rear end?

 

[JT_4Runner]

My mechanic also swears by the Dr. Tranny product, but my question remains... Is it possible the shudder felt at 45-50mph could be caused by a failing pinion gear in rear end?

It could be a whole host of things making the shudder. I had a center driveshaft bearing fail on one of my BMWs and it would make the car shudder at certain speeds. Im not informed enough about the pinion bearing issue to say one way or the other, but based off my experience with my BMW I could easily see how it could definitely be an issue.

On another note, go ahead and properly grease your driveline. While this may have nothing to do with the issue it certainly cant make it worse.

 

[awarrick]

I've been reading what you guys have been talking about and our '04 sport V8 full-time 4wd is also doing the rumble strip thing. Ours does it under a load going up a slight hill between 25-35mph. Even the passenger can feel it. We had our wheels checked, we had the u-joints checked and had the split joint lubed. Still doing it and it just increases in frequency. However the tech noted on my bill from last week that there was a slight "chuggle" from the torque converter. I'm no mechanic and I don't know what a torque converter is but considering getting it replaced. The other recommendation was to have the driveshaft balanced, which is something I'd never heard of either.

 

[AuSeeker]

I've been reading what you guys have been talking about and our '04 sport V8 full-time 4wd is also doing the rumble strip thing. Ours does it under a load going up a slight hill between 25-35mph. Even the passenger can feel it. We had our wheels checked, we had the u-joints checked and had the split joint lubed. Still doing it and it just increases in frequency. However the tech noted on my bill from last week that there was a slight "chuggle" from the torque converter. I'm no mechanic and I don't know what a torque converter is but considering getting it replaced. The other recommendation was to have the driveshaft balanced, which is something I'd never heard of either.

Have you had the transmission fluid changed?
Most who have done the fluid change solved their "rumble strip" issue, if you have had the fluid changed or going to get it changed I would also highly recommend adding "ShutterFixx" additive as well..., doing these 2 things are much much cheaper than replacing the torque converter and may very well solve your issue, if not then you can pursue replacing the torque converter.

Instant Shudder Fixx

 

[awarrick]

Have you had the transmission fluid changed?
Most who have done the fluid change solved their "rumble strip" issue, if you have had the fluid changed or going to get it changed I would also highly recommend adding "ShutterFixx" additive as well..., doing these 2 things are much much cheaper than replacing the torque converter and may very well solve your issue, if not then you can pursue replacing the torque converter.

Instant Shudder Fixx

We have not had the fluid changed. It was checked and an additive was added and the shutter went away for a couple days but came back. The shop we go to is very reputable. It seems to me from reading all these posts all over the internet that the issue is solved in different ways. Seems the fluid change works for some but not all. Just seems quite the co-incidence that the tech wrote a note about the torque converter and I never mentioned it to them. Maybe have both done, cover both bases. I'm pretty tired of taking the truck back and forth for the same thing. This would be trip #3.

 

[Drunner97]

We have not had the fluid changed. It was checked and an additive was added and the shutter went away for a couple days but came back. The shop we go to is very reputable. It seems to me from reading all these posts all over the internet that the issue is solved in different ways. Seems the fluid change works for some but not all. Just seems quite the co-incidence that the tech wrote a note about the torque converter and I never mentioned it to them. Maybe have both done, cover both bases. I'm pretty tired of taking the truck back and forth for the same thing. This would be trip #3.

I'd do the fluid change and add another tube of shudder stop. My fluid was absolutely disgusting at 120k. I only did 4 quarts and a tube of shudder stop and mine all but went away. I still need to do another 4 quarts now that I've put some miles on it.

 

[roadhogbc]

The shudder

I discovered something interesting last weekend. My 2006 sport has 188,000 miles and has never had a transmission fluid change. It developed the dreaded shudder about 2,000 miles ago and after reading the forum here I bought a tube of Dr. Tranny's shudder fix. Because it is a sealed unit I asked a mechanic at a local shop to put it in for me, but when he saw the colour of the fluid he said I would be wasting my time, so I booked it in to a specialist transmission shop to get a fluid change.

However over the weekend I used it to tow a trailer with sod to the local landfill. Together with the trailer weight and the sod I was well over the 5,000 lb towing limit, probably closer to 7,000. I did 3 loads, so maybe 100 miles. Having returned the trailer and driving home I realised that the shudder had gone. I drove it around a bit and tried accelerating at 30/40 in drive and there is nothing. I spoke to the transmission guys again, and they said they can't really do anything if it isn't shuddering. So now I am just waiting to see if it returns.

Has anyone got an explanation of why this might have happened?

 

[AuSeeker]

I discovered something interesting last weekend. My 2006 sport has 188,000 miles and has never had a transmission fluid change. It developed the dreaded shudder about 2,000 miles ago and after reading the forum here I bought a tube of Dr. Tranny's shudder fix. Because it is a sealed unit I asked a mechanic at a local shop to put it in for me, but when he saw the colour of the fluid he said I would be wasting my time, so I booked it in to a specialist transmission shop to get a fluid change.

However over the weekend I used it to tow a trailer with sod to the local landfill. Together with the trailer weight and the sod I was well over the 5,000 lb towing limit, probably closer to 7,000. I did 3 loads, so maybe 100 miles. Having returned the trailer and driving home I realised that the shudder had gone. I drove it around a bit and tried accelerating at 30/40 in drive and there is nothing. I spoke to the transmission guys again, and they said they can't really do anything if it isn't shuddering. So now I am just waiting to see if it returns.

Has anyone got an explanation of why this might have happened?

I don't have an explanation for you but I would bet the shuuder comes back at some point, so I highly recommend still dong the fluid exchange, with the high mileage I would ONLY have them remove ALL the old fluid via the cooling lines and replace with new fluid and BUT DO NOT DO a FLUSH which is done with a machine under pressure as that could dislodge possible sludge which can then clog passageways and or other various sensors and or solenoids, etc., causing other major issues, I would also still add the Shudder Fixx.