Transmission Temperatures and How it Relates to Life of the Fluid

[Jhelms]

Nice video. Next time Tim you are at the HD buy some of this to clean your condenser, it works well, at least for me it does though I don't know if it is for sale in CA:

AC-Safe Air Conditioner Coil Foaming Cleaner-AC-920 - The Home Depot

Works great, but a BIG tip for those going to do this. If your radiator has been in for a long time (100K+ or more)
- Remove the front grill and have grill clips handy
- Remove the radiator. Do this as you will be surprised how much crap can wind up in between the radiator and the condenser
- Hose down the radiator with coil cleaner per directions. Use a pressurewasher with a wide pattern tip to rinse from the backside (fan side) forward. NASTYNESS will pour out
- Next, coil clean the condenser and rinse the best you can, being careful not to damage any fins when trying to flush fan side to front
- Only needs to be done every 100K or so IF you pressure wash with just soap and water / rinse both on a fairly regular basis just blasting condenser side back when you go to a car wash / or clean the undercarriage.

Smart thing to do when it is time for a timing belt. Depending in climate and where you live - will depend on what flushes out. I used to drive 100miles a day round trip to work and back many years ago and ended up in dust storms often. The first time I washed the radiator and condenser out, I was at a car wash (without removing the rad). I just decided to do it one day and WOW! It was virtually mud pouring out of both! That trip home, I had the coldest AC in that car that I remembered it having! After that, I adopted the policy of cleaning on a regular basis and then with coil cleaner every 100K or so just as I did each year with my home AC unit.

I still currently will wash the condenser and rad anytime I am at a spray car wash doing the under carriage as SOP. I only use coil cleaner when I pull the rad.


Not totally off topic BTW... Transmission cooler is in the lowest, most exposed part of the radiator. Keep it clean for lower temps

 

[LittleCaesar]

Next time I do this I will take some pics; no video for I am not as proficient as Tim with a video camera.

If you have a set of AC gauges, check the high side before and after the condenser cleaning. I have usually seen a drop in pressure upwards of 20%, which yields cooler AC temps.

 

[lisoni]

So how many quarts are in a 4Runner? Are most people doing drain and fill or a "flush" when they trans fluid is changed?

 

[amalik]

So how many quarts are in a 4Runner? Are most people doing drain and fill or a "flush" when they trans fluid is changed?

For my 3rd gen, it took ~14-16 QT for a flush, I don't remember exactly how much.

others drain and fill every 10,000 miles which is a dilution that eventually replaces all 14-16QT because you do ~5 QT every drain and fill every 10k miles, after 3 times, you have done all 15QT.

 

[zoombyu86]

I see so many people talking about drain/fill trans fluid which is just mixing. I recently dropped the pan and and refilled. I didn't even have to remove any skid plates to get to the trans cooler pipe at the bottom of the radiator. It only cost me 4 gallons (valvoline synthetic max life) at 17.5 >>> $70 plus cost of 3ft fuel line and a gasket. No reason to skimp by mixing fluids.

My previous statement is geared toward those who have never changed it and is probably on factory fluid.

 

[jeremyc74]

I see so many people talking about drain/fill trans fluid which is just mixing. I recently dropped the pan and and refilled. I didn't even have to remove any skid plates to get to the trans cooler pipe at the bottom of the radiator. It only cost me 4 gallons (valvoline synthetic max life) at 17.5 >>> $70 plus cost of 3ft fuel line and a gasket. No reason to skimp by mixing fluids.

My previous statement is geared toward those who have never changed it and is probably on factory fluid.

Dropping the pan isn't doing anything more than pulling the drain plug.

 

[mtbtim]

So how many quarts are in a 4Runner? Are most people doing drain and fill or a "flush" when they trans fluid is changed?

From my research, the capacity is 12 quarts. If you do a drain and refill, you have replaced 5 quarts. If you do a drain and refill often enough, it will keep your trans fluid in good shape. I do it every 10,000 miles. If you want to replace all the fluid at one time, that's fine too. Personally, I like the drain and refill technique and it has served me well.

 

[mtbtim]

I see so many people talking about drain/fill trans fluid which is just mixing. I recently dropped the pan and and refilled. I didn't even have to remove any skid plates to get to the trans cooler pipe at the bottom of the radiator. It only cost me 4 gallons (valvoline synthetic max life) at 17.5 >>> $70 plus cost of 3ft fuel line and a gasket. No reason to skimp by mixing fluids.

My previous statement is geared toward those who have never changed it and is probably on factory fluid.

If I was only doing a drain and refill every 30,000 miles, I would tend to agree the complete fluid flush is far superior. But, renewing 5 quarts of ATF every 10,000 miles is doing a good job of keeping the trans fluid in great shape. Dilution processes work well in my opinion if you do it the right way.

If you read the information from the link I supplied on the first post on the thread, your trans fluid life can be dramatically affected by the temps you hit. If you're monitoring your trans temps, great. If you're not, and you do push your rig at times towing, driving up mountain roads carrying a load, your trans temps could have spiked and now your trans fluid's life has shortened. Instead of lasting 30,000 miles, now it's only going to last 20,000 while giving your trans proper lubrication. That website reported if your trans reached 250 degrees, your fluid is only going to last 10,000 miles. Giving fresh fluid on a more regular basis could be the difference between normal wear and excessive wear for your trans. Just something to consider.

 

[MountainBiker]

I have found that my trans temps are higher when climbing a hill in 4WD HI than when in 4-LO.

Now whenever I'm on a long slow-medium speed climb (say 15-20mph) I keep it in 4LO at about 3500 rpm average vs 4HI and much lower RPMs.

The only time ive ever done one of the climbs in 4HI was the one time my transmisson got hot enough to give me a temp warning.

Yes, it lowers the temps if you drive at an rpm that is higher than the torque converter's stall speed.

 

[MountainBiker]

I've always filled to the upper cold mark, driven the vehicle until it's warm, shifted through the gears and then checked to see it was in the hot range. After I installed my B&M cooler, I think I slightly overfilled it but probably not enough to be too concerned. The level you see on the dipstick changes a lot depending on the temperature. When I reached the top of a 7 mile mountain road drive, my trans temp was in the 190's, when I checked the level on the dipstick, it was way over the upper hot line. When I check the level when the temp is around 150, it's a little over the upper hot line.

Since the level can change a lot depending on how hot the trans is when you check it, I'm starting to think maybe filling it to the upper cold mark and calling it good might be best. I'm going to be doing a drain and refill again soon and I'm going to try that out. But, I'll also drive it bringing the trans temp up to around 150 and check to see where the level sits on the dipstick.

Keep in mind that the added trans cooler adds volume to the system when your engine is running. The cold line on the dipstick isn't correct after this modification, since some of the fluid in the added cooler can flow back into the pan when the pump is off.

 

[Drcoffee]

Keep in mind that the added trans cooler adds volume to the system when your engine is running. The cold line on the dipstick isn't correct after this modification, since some of the fluid in the added cooler can flow back into the pan when the pump is off.

Who checks the trans fluid with the engine off?

So ATF expands as it heats up. You run the truck until the ATF is at operating temp 120-150* and while the engine is still running, you check the fluid level in the hot range. The cooler will be full of ATF and the fluid measurement will be accurate.

 

[Drcoffee]

Keep the ATF cool and clean with a Magnefine filter and the fluid will last 100k miles.

 

[ZionXIX]

How are you measuring the Transmission fluid temperature? I have a 1996 model and no temp gauge for the transmission on the dash board. Do the 2000s come with one? or are using an after market gauge? Scan gauge maybe?

Thanks, -Z

 

[Drcoffee]

How are you measuring the Transmission fluid temperature? I have a 1996 model and no temp gauge for the transmission on the dash board. Do the 2000s come with one? or are using an after market gauge? Scan gauge maybe?

Thanks, -Z

For those without the obd2 port, you can install an autometer temp gauge in the center console by the shifter and the sensor on the fluid line going to the radiator cooler. If you insulate the brass T that houses the sensor, the temps will be fairly accurate ( 5* less). Uninsulated, the temps can vary by as much as 20* less from the internal tranny temps. Yes, I compared it on two of my vehicles and both are now covered with a 3/4" plumbing T insulation from home depot held closed with zip ties.

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/90910-trans-temp-gauge.html

 

[cvghjugi]

So how many quarts are in a 4Runner? Are most people doing drain and fill or a "flush" when they trans fluid is changed?

 

[StreetCreeper]

So how many quarts are in a 4Runner? Are most people doing drain and fill or a "flush" when they trans fluid is changed?

When I did a flush, I had 16 qts of Valvoline Max-life on hand and used most of it.

If your just doing a drain & fill, then you should have 6 qts on hand. People seem to get various amount out when they do drain & fills but it's usually between 4 and 6 qts if I recall correctly.

 

[fourfive]

So how many quarts are in a 4Runner? Are most people doing drain and fill or a "flush" when they trans fluid is changed?

The 3 times I did a drain & fill my transmission took exactly 4qts.

The 1 time I dropped the pan & replaced the trans filter/strainer it took exactly 6 qts.

Personally I do drain and fills b/c it's quick & easy allowing me to do it more regularly. The only reason I dropped the pan was due to a stripped drain plug. The fluid exchange/flush method that was described in a previous post sounds straight forward but haven't tried it.

 

[mtbtim]

I just did another trip to the mountains loaded down with gear and the the B&M 70264 cooler did it's job well. On my last trip, I was loaded down with gear and pulling a motorcycle trailer and I hit 232 degrees by the top of a long climb. On this most recent trip, I was loaded down with gear but wasn't pulling the motorcycle trailer (weighs around 425 pounds total) and I hit around 205 by the top of the same hill. I wasn't pulling the trailer but the ambient temps were around 15 degrees hotter on the second trip.

On the high side of things, I'm looking pretty good, but I'm starting to wonder if I'm running too cool for normal driving. On the highway, I'm running in the 130's, but if it's a longer drive, the temps finally make it into the mid to high 140's. Since I now know that trans temps below 150 isn't optimal, I'm wondering if adding the cooler was the best choice.

 

[Kotrin]

I have been playing with temperatures and OD/ECT as I drive up curvy roads and notice a huge temp improvement when I have OD off. According to the Toyota FSM you can go up to 70+ in OD. I will have the fluids changed and will monitor temps over the next few weeks. My concern is with my overland trip up and down windy hills and such, i'll be in the 200's a lot....shall be really interesting. After my 7 day trip i'll post the temperatures.

I'm not so concerned aftering the information was given and playing with the OD switches and such for helping on the temperatures. It seem's that unless your on a flat road with a steady 55, OD should be off a lot of the times.

 

[mtbtim]

I have been playing with temperatures and OD/ECT as I drive up curvy roads and notice a huge temp improvement when I have OD off. According to the Toyota FSM you can go up to 70+ in OD. I will have the fluids changed and will monitor temps over the next few weeks. My concern is with my overland trip up and down windy hills and such, i'll be in the 200's a lot....shall be really interesting. After my 7 day trip i'll post the temperatures.

I'm not so concerned aftering the information was given and playing with the OD switches and such for helping on the temperatures. It seem's that unless your on a flat road with a steady 55, OD should be off a lot of the times.

I usually keep OD on unless I'm going up a steady climb on the highway, driving on mountain roads or going down a grade and I want a little engine braking. I may be wrong, but since having the OD on lowers the rpms, your gas mileage will be better.