Transmission Torque Converter Installation

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2001 3.4 5VZ 4Runner

Drained engine oil, tranny fluid, xfer case, coolant and radiator.

Removed drive shafts, xfer case, auto tranny. Pulled engine.

Everything was working fine except heads.

Replaced the heads with rebuilt heads. Dropped the engine in and bolted down. Tranny went in so smooth I could hardly believe it.
Finger tightened tranny bolts and it sucked right into place. Reinstalled xfer case and drive shafts. Filled tranny to cold level between the dots

Started engine. Ran great. Tried to put into gear and it wouldn't move out of park. Use screw driver to release the shifter.

Zero transfer of power reverse or forward. 2wd to neutral and 4wd same thing.

I read on a post that there are two steps for the torque converter going into the transmission. If it went in smoothly, does that mean it wasn't installed right? Mechanic said there was zero transmission fluid pump pressure.

I just went home and put my spare torque converter on my spare tranny. Engaged keyway all the way in. Turned torque converter and output shaft doesn't move.

How much fluid does it take to fill the transmission if it were all emtyp
 
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I know it's a stupid question, but did you make sure to replace the torque converter to flex plate bolts? And yes, there should be two distinct keyways the torque converter must engage on the input shaft. As you install the converter onto the shaft, you should feel it slip onto the first and bottom out, then as you push and turn, you will feel it go in again as it engages the pump. Sometimes it's a *****, and it can actually bolt up without engaging both. If there's no pump pressure, you probably have not engaged the second one.

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No I did not push and turn so that it is likely not engaged

What was it that you turned? The crank bolt?

I have it a shop. The guy is supposedly a 4runner guru. He know his stuff. But he want a lot to "trouble shoot". I have this sinking feeling he knows what it is and want to bend me over.
 
I posted a video so you can see how the converter must be turned so it will engage both the input shaft and the pump...
 
On the "push and turn" is that the step where you engage turn and seat the keyway?

I don't see how I could even get the bell housing flush with the engine if it wasn't engaged without "turning". I've change 4 of these engines out and never had any problem. The other times it was a ***** to get the torque converter into the tranny because I didn't remove the tranny only the engine. This time I decided to do it per the FSM and remove the tranny first. With my tranny jack I aligned it and it when right in.??
 
Yes, when you turn the converter as you push, the last thing you engage is the keyway for the pump. It's only about a 1/4" difference so you can still bolt it up. Just won't have any pump. Happens all the time. I am like you thinking a mechanic would know this immediately.
 
I had never removed an engine before and EVERYTHING I needed to know was right here on T4R but of course in my haphazard way I didn't read it first. I put the torque converter in and really thought it went in correctly, bolted the bell housing tight and when I went to bolt the TC to the flywheel (I guess its called a flexplate?) they were jammed together and wouldn't budge. I didn't know what to do so I put a big ol' breaker bar on the crankshaft and turned it about a quarter turn . an incredibly loud BOING and the TC and flywheel were loose, I bolted em together and really believed I had to have screwed something up badly......lucked out I guess it all works fine! :whoo:
 
I had never removed an engine before and EVERYTHING I needed to know was right here on T4R but of course in my haphazard way I didn't read it first. I put the torque converter in and really thought it went in correctly, bolted the bell housing tight and when I went to bolt the TC to the flywheel (I guess its called a flexplate?) they were jammed together and wouldn't budge. I didn't know what to do so I put a big ol' breaker bar on the crankshaft and turned it about a quarter turn . an incredibly loud BOING and the TC and flywheel were loose, I bolted em together and really believed I had to have screwed something up badly......lucked out I guess it all works fine! :whoo:

LOL..been there done that...

Yes, the automatic trans has a flexplate, and the manual uses a flywheel.
 
Pulled the transfer case and transmission pulled off the torque converter. Filled torque converter with ATF until poured out while holding in installed position. Installed torque converter. Seated correctly in the key way. Measured from bell housing to face of torque converter it was within specs. Reinstalled everything, torqued the 6 flex plate bolts into torque converter. Same damn thing. Will not engage into gear. It's like it in neutral P-R-N-D-2-L. I am freaking stumped.
 
ATF is at the proper level. Also, we changed the radiator. Someone asked the question if you need 12 quarts of fluids when empty. Is that the proper quantity to refill? Could there be an air lock in the tranny cooler?

One other question, when working correctly, the transmission pump will pump at all times even in neutral? Is that correct? Thanks
 
Did you make sure the linkage is actually moving the shifter rod in the trans properly?

Make sure all electrical connectors connected? Broken wires to pressure control solenoid?

Also, what is the line pressure in all gears?

Any transmission codes?

hoping the pump gear ears aren't broken...
 
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Help please!

I posted a video so you can see how the converter must be turned so it will engage both the input shaft and the pump...

So after you install the TC to the shaft how are you supposed to mate/bolt it with the flexplate/motor?? Sorry I'm used to manuals... I hate automatics now.
 
Help please!

I posted a video so you can see how the converter must be turned so it will engage both the input shaft and the pump...

So after you install the TC to the shaft how are you supposed to mate/bolt it with the flexplate/motor?? Sorry I'm used to manuals... I hate automatics now.
 

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