TRD CAI vs URD aFe Intake

[1jzgte]

01-17-2015
- stock = 219.9whp & 236.4ft lb of toque


02-21-2015
- TRD CAI, Stock rims and tires, stock suspension = 224.6whp & 255.5 ft lb of torque


12-18-2015
- TRD CAI, 12586 Muffler, Custom hi tuck exhaust, 285/70-17 tires, 17x8 FN Wheels, and ICON Suspension = 204whp & 235.9ft lb of torque


12-21-2015
- TRD CAI, 12586 Muffler, Custom hi tuck exhaust, URD Y pipe, 285/70-17 tires, 17x8 FN Wheels, and ICON Suspension = GAINS under the curve 26.6whp & 43.4ft of torque BUT PEAK 209.4hp & 237ft lb of torque

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/190157-build-thread-my-rocky.html#post1936161

Just copying from the dyno'ers build thread. Help me understand why he lost power after his mods from 12-18-15.

 

[flyrv9]

There have been many threads on cold air intakes over the years. The end results were they are not worth the money as far as HP gains are concerned. You will get little if any HP increase. The larger increases reported were from Butt Dynos! But hey it's your money. Even the few who did both CAI and Cat back exhaust mods didn't get big gains.

 

[2011T4RLE]

01-17-2015
- stock = 219.9whp & 236.4ft lb of toque


02-21-2015
- TRD CAI, Stock rims and tires, stock suspension = 224.6whp & 255.5 ft lb of torque


12-18-2015
- TRD CAI, 12586 Muffler, Custom hi tuck exhaust, 285/70-17 tires, 17x8 FN Wheels, and ICON Suspension = 204whp & 235.9ft lb of torque


12-21-2015
- TRD CAI, 12586 Muffler, Custom hi tuck exhaust, URD Y pipe, 285/70-17 tires, 17x8 FN Wheels, and ICON Suspension = GAINS under the curve 26.6whp & 43.4ft of torque BUT PEAK 209.4hp & 237ft lb of torque

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/190157-build-thread-my-rocky.html#post1936161

Just copying from the dyno'ers build thread. Help me understand why he lost power after his mods from 12-18-15.

The heavy wheels and tires increased drivetrain loss.

 

[1jzgte]

The heavy wheels and tires increased drivetrain loss.

if that's the case... would lighter wheels register more horsepower?

 

[2011T4RLE]

if that's the case... would lighter wheels register more horsepower?

It would not make more power, but less power would be lost. It requires more energy to spin the heavier wheels/tires so less power is able to be used to spin the dyno. Just like putting a lightweight flywheel or crank pulley on a performance car doesn't make more power, but it requires less to spin it so more is recorded on the dyno.

 

[Jetboy]

To help clarify - wheel dynos are not very good at measuring constant power - actually they can't measure constant power at all. They spin a drum with a known moment of inertia - or angular mass - think weight. When you do a dyno run on a typical drum dyno your car is accelerating the drum. So you are seeing how fast you can accelerate the rotational speed of the drum. This is a reasonable way of measuring how fast you could accelerate a vehicle.

What it doesn't measure is any sort of static load. It doesn't have the physical ability to apply the brakes and measure how much force you can apply in a constant load scenario.

Why this matters is that the rotational inertia of all of the vehicle's drive train also effect the measurement. So larger heavier tires for example have the same effect as making the drum larger or heavier. But those are not measured by the machine. The result is the machine reading a different horse power because the resistance has changed. Since it's not a constant resistance device you can't really measure accurate power in the same way you can on a brake dyno like an engine water brake.

Anyway, larger tires mean lower hp reading on most wheel dynos even if actual power remains the same. And larger or heavier tires don't necessarily increase losses. They often do - but not always. They do however increase the moment of inertia of the driveline and that's what's actually being measured - not power. Power is a calculation based on the drum's moment. If we knew the wheel speeds and rotational inertia of the new and old tires/wheels, we could normalize the results for the difference.

 

[youngwas]

Installation Video

I bought TRD parts from Camelbak Toyota and wire loom, vacuum hose, silicon spray, silicon paste, zip ties from AUTOZONE & O'REILLY.

(1 of 3) TRD Cold Air Intake CAI Installation. 2017 4Runner TRD PRO Cement.
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/WNR_ASVXbSo" frameborder="0" allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen></iframe>

(2 of 3) TRD Cold Air Intake CAI Installation. 2017 4Runner TRD PRO Cement.
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/s0BjSytS20E" frameborder="0" allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen></iframe>

(3 of 3) TRD Cold Air Intake (CAI) Sound. BEFORE & AFTER. 2017 4Runner TRD PRO Cement.
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/XslyCqmw50A" frameborder="0" allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen></iframe>

 

[Friggin Idiot]

I bought TRD parts from Camelbak Toyota and wire loom, vacuum hose, silicon spray, silicon paste, zip ties from AUTOZONE & O'REILLY.

Jesus.... did you spam every single CAI intake thread with your install?!
If you're interested in getting people to watch your videos and see how you build, please create your own build thread. Basically it's a thread that's only about your truck, the mods you make to it, and the adventures you go on. Please refrain from posting the same install in a dozen different threads; it's spamming whether it's thread related or not.

 

[canmig]

Sorry to resurrect an old thread...

I bought the aFe filter and after I inserted it, the fuel consumption (mpg/ L/100KM) readings on the dash are all over the place. Every time I accelerate I get the full bar across, even when I brake. There is no rhyme or reason. Driving conservatively the ECO light comes on etc like it used to, but the fuel consumption levels are much higher. Seems like there is also a delay between accelerating and the reading.

I triple checked the filter and it sits perfectly in the housing. Anyone ever had a similar issue? What can I do to correct it?
Cheers

 

[Friggin Idiot]

Sorry to resurrect an old thread...

I bought the aFe filter and after I inserted it, the fuel consumption (mpg/ L/100KM) readings on the dash are all over the place. Every time I accelerate I get the full bar across, even when I brake. There is no rhyme or reason. Driving conservatively the ECO light comes on etc like it used to, but the fuel consumption levels are much higher. Seems like there is also a delay between accelerating and the reading.

I triple checked the filter and it sits perfectly in the housing. Anyone ever had a similar issue? What can I do to correct it?
Cheers

Which one of their filters did you get?
If it was an oiled filter, some of the oil may have collected on the MAF sensor causing improper readings. I know URD specifically suggests using aFe's ProDry-S model replacement filter if you're going with aftermarket because of the possibility of oil fouling the MAF sensor. If it was an oiled filter, I'd contact customer service and arrange a swap. aFe's customer service is pretty good, and easy to deal with.
If it was an oiled filter, it might be possible to remove the oil from the MAF sensor, gently using an electronics spray cleaner. But you should also be prepared to replace the MAF sensor in case things go wrong, as they are pretty easy to break.
Also remember you've increased air flow through the system without telling the computer what you've done. It may take some time for the ECU to adjust from previous driving habits and information to the new conditions. You can eliminate the previous information by disconnecting the battery for an extended period of time (2+ hours), but the ECU will still have to adjust for the new conditions over a period of time.

And never be sorry for resurrecting and old thread, it means you searched and found something related instead of starting a new thread for every single question! Oh and Welcome to the forum!

 

[canmig]

Which one of their filters did you get?
...
Also remember you've increased air flow through the system without telling the computer what you've done. It may take some time for the ECU to adjust from previous driving habits and information to the new conditions. You can eliminate the previous information by disconnecting the battery for an extended period of time (2+ hours), but the ECU will still have to adjust for the new conditions over a period of time.

I got the Pro Dry S. I figured it's ECU related and hope it sorts itself out. Thanks.

 

[97BlackAckCL]

I got the Pro Dry S. I figured it's ECU related and hope it sorts itself out. Thanks.

I would pull the battery terminals for a minute and then reattach to reset the ECU, that would be the quickest way to reset it and get things to adjust

 

[Bootleg]

I would pull the battery terminals for a minute and then reattach to reset the ECU, that would be the quickest way to reset it and get things to adjust

You can expedite this by pressing the brakes for a few seconds. This will use any energy left in the electrical system by trying to illuminate the brake lights. No need to wait 2+ hours to drain the system!