TRD Exhaust Question

Smobien

New member
I ordered a trd exhaust and installed it last night. I was wondering if there were any do's / don'ts with putting a new exhaust on a car. Is there a break in period where you should not drive hard or take a long trip?

Here are some pictures of it on the truck in case any of you are interested. If you want a video let me know I can see what I can do. The install was straightforward. I had to get a new front gasket from the dealer since the kit didn’t provide me with one. I did have to cut off the old exhaust after the muffler with a sawsall. The flange bolts above the rear axle were rusted away into nothing. If anyone is interested in a perfectly good rear stock tail pipe with resonator and the flanges intact, let me know.

Thanks!
 

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:iagree: I've never heard anyone talk about a break in period... Most people go out and put it to the floor to enjoy the sound/feeling.
 
Thats what I figured. I just wanted to double check. I like it so far. I will find out how much I like when I drive to the beach next month. :)
 
u only got the single tip one? the cheaper one, i thought u got the dual atleast. how much did the exhaust costed you? is it close to the 500 range? any louder?
 
Just for the hell of it, you should post a video! I have been looking at exhausts lately... Give it some good rev's!
 
I noticed on mine I lost torque. Like when I punched it I lost back pressure or something. It also sounded kind of farty when it got into 5th gear.
 
u only got the single tip one? the cheaper one, i thought u got the dual atleast. how much did the exhaust costed you? is it close to the 500 range? any louder?
Yeah it is a single tip. It is not the Borla system. It is the TRD system that was available from Toyota. It was $500 shipped to my house. It is noticeably louder, I'm still getting used to it. Driving on the highway it is almost silent. However, driving in the suburbs stop and go you can tell it’s there.
 
Just for the hell of it, you should post a video! I have been looking at exhausts lately... Give it some good rev's!
I will put some videos up on youtube when I get a chance. :)

What are you thinking of getting? I did a lot of research too. The Borla dual side exit was another contender. It came down to money. I wanted to see how much of a difference the side exit would affect the sulfur smell when driving with the rear window down. Apparently not much... :( Oh well. It sounds cool and I did notice an improvement in response time.
 
I noticed on mine I lost torque. Like when I punched it I lost back pressure or something. It also sounded kind of farty when it got into 5th gear.
Georgous truck Javelin.

That's odd. Mine feels more punchy when I get on it. When I'm in 5th 70-75 at 2100rpm I can barely hear it.
 
I noticed on mine I lost torque. Like when I punched it I lost back pressure or something. It also sounded kind of farty when it got into 5th gear.

Let me tell you about exhaust theory...



The perfect exhaust system would have zero back pressure and 100% exhaust velocity but it is not easily feasible. First what exactly is exhaust theory? Your exhaust system is designed to evacuate gases from the combustion chamber quickly and efficiently. Exhaust gases are not produced in a smooth stream; exhaust gases originate in pulses. A 4 cylinder motor will have 4 distinct pulses per complete engine cycle, a 6 cylinder has 6 pules and so on. The more pulses that are produced, the more continuous the exhaust flow. Back pressure can be loosely defined as the resistance to positive flow - in this case, the resistance to positive flow of the exhaust stream.

The other reason why people say "backpressure is good" is because they hear that cars (or motorcycles) that have had performance exhaust work done to them would then go on to burn exhaust valves. Now, it is true that such valve burning has occurred as a result of the exhaust mods, but it isn't due merely to a lack of backpressure.

The valve burning occurs as a result of a very lean-burning engine, not lack of back pressure and this is only true in older vehicles with carburetion often could not adjust because of the way that backpressure caused air to flow backwards through the carburetor after the air already got loaded down with fuel, and caused the air to receive a second load of fuel.

Modern EFI engines that have a computer that controls the engine will detect that the engine is burning leaner than before, and will adjust fuel injection to compensate. So, in effect, reducing backpressure really does two good things: The engine can use work otherwise spent pushing exhaust gas out the tailpipe to propel the car forward, and the engine breathes better.

Now a little talk about the role exhaust velocity plays in relations to exhaust back pressure. Many people mistakenly believe that wider pipes are more effective at clearing the combustion chamber than narrower pipes. It's not hard to see how this idea would be appealing - as wider pipes have the capability to flow more than narrower pipes. However, this omits the concept of exhaust VELOCITY. Here is an analogy...a garden hose without a spray nozzle on it. If you let the water just run unrestricted out of the hose it flows at a rather slow rate. However, if you take your finger and cover part of the opening, the water will spray out at a much much faster rate.

Then there is the idea that bigger exhaust pipes will increase power. I believe it is/was a misunderstanding of what is going on with the exhaust stream as pipe diameters change. For instance, someone with a Honda Civic decides he's going to upgrade his exhaust with a 3" diameter piping. Once it's installed the owner notices that he seems to have lost a good bit of power throughout the power band. He makes the connections in the following manner: "My wider exhaust eliminated all back pressure but I lost power, therefore the motor must need some back pressure in order to make power." What he did not realize is that he killed off all his flow velocity by using such a ridiculously wide pipe. It would have been possible for him to achieve close to zero back pressure with a much narrower pipe - in that way he would not have lost all his flow velocity.

The faster an exhaust pulse moves, the better it can scavenge out all of the spent gasses during valve overlap. The guiding principles of exhaust pulse scavenging are a bit beyond the scope of this post but the general idea is a fast moving pulse creates a low pressure area behind it. This low pressure area acts as a vacuum and draws along the air behind it. Conclusion. Each engine will before function its best best with a exhaust system balanced to its needs and characteristics with a goal of to producing the the highest exhaust gas speeds.


in a nut shell, exhaust back pressure is bad and exhaust velocity is good. this is the exact science that flowmaster claims they build their mufflers with. Now personally i do not like flowmaster mufflers and have seen some reports of certain engines actually creating less peak HP/TQ than stock with a flowmaster muffler.

-----------------------------------------

anywho my personal recommendations for muffler type in no particular order is

-- Borla

-- Bassani

-- Corsa

-- Magnaflow
 
Rebelbowtie,

I've read that exhaust theory on here before. Very informative!

The TRD exhaust from what I can tell is the exact same diameter as the stock exhaust. The only difference was physical the size of the muffler (made by Bosal) and obviously the tail pipe.

I would figure TRD engineers would have researched this "exhaust theory" when it came time to designing the thing.

I had a Corsa exhaust on a 1999 Z28 (regret selling it) and LOVED IT!

Maybe I will take a break at work and go get an idle video up for you all to look at. Any tips on how to get a good video of it “under load?”
 
My iPhone with otterbox actually fits in my cradle for my garmin nuvi. So I stuck it on my back window and drove around the block to get mine.
 
Yeah I was concerned with how the V6 would sound. Some of the videos I found were just annoying.

I had the opportunity to buy a V8 runner but it was older and had more miles on it. Plus I don’t really tow anything.

I believe it is stainless steel.

I am interested in getting an intake. CAI or other any suggestions? I have a drop in K&N filter. I was reading another thread on here about the carbon filter inside the air box. I felt that it defeated the purpose of getting a better filter. How important is it to have that carbon filter in place?
 
Pretty sure the stock system is stainless too, because mine has spent 8 years in the salt belt and it still looks new
The old exhaust that I took off was in good shape. The only major rust was on the bend after the muffler over the rear axle. Looked like how I figured a 7-year-old exhaust would look. The bolts on the flange there were terrible.
 
Pretty sure the stock system is stainless too, because mine has spent 8 years in the salt belt and it still looks new

i believe the factory exhaust is aluminized steel. its a kind of cathode protective coating like galvanizing.

Yeah I was concerned with how the V6 would sound. Some of the videos I found were just annoying.

I had the opportunity to buy a V8 runner but it was older and had more miles on it. Plus I don’t really tow anything.

I believe it is stainless steel.

I am interested in getting an intake. CAI or other any suggestions? I have a drop in K&N filter. I was reading another thread on here about the carbon filter inside the air box. I felt that it defeated the purpose of getting a better filter. How important is it to have that carbon filter in place?

CAI is a sham unless you are only looking for WOT benefits. i have a thread on this topic, i'm not sure exactly what carbon filter you speak of but off hand i am going to say its not hurting the air flow. goes along with descreening the MAF, its pretty much pointless.
 

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