Trouble after FJ swap/CV replacement

[DocCox]

First off the 4Runner
2003
Limited
150k miles
V8

Ive lurked here for almost two years now, finally I have a question that needs help. Ive done some searching and can't really locate much information (or I need some direction)

I replaced my XREAS with FJ/Bilstein route. Noticed the passenger side CV was shot. Replaced with a local $50 unit with lifetime warranty.

Yesterday, I had a serious issue. As I was driving I started to notice a vibration coming from the passenger side. About 20 minutes closer to my destination I started to hear a minor cyclic thumping noise. As I arrived the noise was as clear as day, just a humming and thumping nose as the wheels rotated. Im assuming the CV is shot, I don't really see how the install could have gone wrong. I guess im looking to see if this is similar to anything that's happened to anybody else - or if anybody has any ideas. I will get a better look at it when the suns up.

Just a little worried for my baby. Thanks for any help

 

[ARK_SWAMP_RIDER]

That's definitely a possibility. This thread may have some info that'll help.
Coud my new wheel bearing be bad? - Toyota 120 Platforms Forum

 

[DocCox]

Still working on this darn thing!
I had to replace my passenger CV joint again, as it was leaking a fluid (that looked strangely like 30w oil and not gear oil!) and while I was at it I decided to just replace the drivers side as well. The passenger side is still leaking oil, between the front diff and the CV. Tomorrow, im going in and grabbing yet another CV to replace this one with - Is there a seal that is damaged? Anybody know the part number, or have a picture of it? Im positive its not leaking from anywhere else, the underside of the car is showroom clean at this point.

 

[cparise]

Still working on this darn thing!
I had to replace my passenger CV joint again, as it was leaking a fluid (that looked strangely like 30w oil and not gear oil!) and while I was at it I decided to just replace the drivers side as well. The passenger side is still leaking oil, between the front diff and the CV. Tomorrow, im going in and grabbing yet another CV to replace this one with - Is there a seal that is damaged? Anybody know the part number, or have a picture of it? Im positive its not leaking from anywhere else, the underside of the car is showroom clean at this point.

put toyota ones in they cost almost 400 each but you wont have any issues

 

[Gerdo]

There is a seal at the end of the diff housing. You have to be careful installing the diff end of the CV axle so you don't nick it. Also apply some gear oil or grease to the CV where it will ride on the seal to minimize wear.

Next, not all CVs are created equal. Even though the auto parts store lifetime warranty axles sound like a good deal ARE NOT!!!
True I'm a 3rd gen but I'm sure the CVs are made the same. The auto parts store axles are made from cheap steel that is poorly heat treated. If it was just popping the CV it wouldn't big a big deal. But I have seen these junk axles break inside the diff. I will tell you that it is a bear to get it out.
These axles can also bind at full droop and hard turns.

I either have my OEM axles rebuilt/re-booted or buy a re-built at a local driveline/CV shop. I insist that it is a OEM re-built.

 

[settytb]

Also, check my thread, same problem with the leaking oil. I even have the seal part numbers in there... Hope this helps. I know it's frustrating...

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/101038-how-install-new-cv-axles.html

As a side note I used rock auto new cv's they were like 50 something a piece and i have probably 5k on mine with no problems at all....

 

[DocCox]

I still have a strange noise coming from the passenger side after the wheel bearing replacement, new shocks/springs, new cv, etc. When turning the tire by hand it actually compresses the suspension (or rises) about 1/2" so thats probably the noise. No idea whats wrong, but i can live with it... Thank you so much for the part numbers!

As for the parts, they are all reman OEM. Its almost $100 but you get a core return fee. I understand the importance of replacing certain parts with new OEM (the seal for example) but don't particularly believe that a new OEM is that much superior to a re-manned OEM.

Im tearing it all down one more time to look for whatever is causing this noise/vibration, and then surrendering it to a reliable shop and letting them do the discovery work.