Trouble burping 5vz cooling system

[yotatake2]

Hi guys. So I just swapped in a jdm 5vz into my 3rd gen and it's having some overheating problems. At first I figured it's just not fully burped but I've been trying to burp it all day now and nothing has changed so I'm starting to wonder if it's something else. Before I installed the new engine, I installed a brand new oem toyota water pump timing belt and thermostat. The symptoms are as follows:

Ultragauge is reading high 190's coolant temp and climbing. I keep shutting it off around 197 to let it cool down.

Lower radiator hose is still cold the entire time.

Thermostat doesn't seem to be opening.

I called a friend of mine who's an advisor for toyota mechanics and he said it's more than likely not a problem with the new thermostat because he's been building those motors for years and he's never seen a dud oem one. He thinks it's just a big air pocket somewhere. I'm using those funnels built into the radiator cap to make sure the radiator is the highest point in the system but it's still not burping a whole lot. I've replaced the radiator a couple times before and it was a huge pain to burp the system, but this seems excessive. Anyone have any ideas?

 

[giovannie23]

197 is not overheating
i would be worried when you get in the 214 some say 219 and up
also the lower rad hose usually stay cool becuz the upper hose is taking the hot coolant from the engine cools in the rad and returns the cool coolant thru the bottom hose if that makes sense

also make sure your t stat jiggle valve is at the 6oclock position that will drop your temp 8 to 12 degrees

 

[nissanh]

How old is the radiator? IS the AC condenser cooling fins clean? You got about 91 Celsius, it is too high at this time of the year.

I never had issues with burping. It works the first time.

1) WITH a COLD engine (not even warm), remove the radiator cap

2) Turn the cabin heater (lever to red zone) and blower fan on.

3) Inspect the coolant level in the radiator should be about an inch below the radiator cap (this allows room for any expansion without overflowing the upper tank)

4) Start the engine and let it come to working temperature.

5) Once at the operating temperature, wear goggles and inspect the coolant level inside the radiator. If the level is down, add more but keep the level below 1 inch.

6) You can get the engine to working temperature quickly if you get the AC on.

7) Once the level stays still, turn off the engine and top it up and put back the radiator cap.

That's all.

 

[JoeT4R]

[MENTION=104811]yotatake2[/MENTION] Daily driving my 2001, my average coolant temp is between 197-202F°. I have not seen it raise higher than that since I have had a ScanGauge II hooked up. Not quite sure what your issue could entail, either.

 

[yotatake2]

So I'm checking my thermostat right now just for peace of mind and then i'll put it back in and fill everything back up. I know 197 isn't overheating yet, but my old engine ran at 185 all day every day. The only time I've ever seen it get into the 190's is when I'm going up a mountain road. And right now it's getting to 197 just idling. I drove it around yesterday and it got up to 205. My friend from toyota still thinks it's a big air bubble in the system. He recommended filling the block up first from the upper radiator hose then topping off the system. Also, isnt the little dangle valve supposed to be at the top? All the videos i've seen have it at the 12 oclock position.

 

[yotatake2]

Oh wait, FSM says to put the jiggle valve downwards. Sorry man! My mistake. Hopefully that's the issue.

 

[yotatake2]

So I tested the thermostat and it popped just fine. I put it back in with the jiggle valve down and this time I filled it from the upper radiator hose straight into the block, then topped it off at the radiator. Burped it for a little bit and the temps were perfect. Did great on the test drive too. So I'm thinking it was just a really persistent air bubble that I trapped by filling it up only by the radiator the first time. There were too many differing views on the jiggle valve position so I don't think that's what fixed it. Thanks guys!

 

[ThorInc]

So I tested the thermostat and it popped just fine. I put it back in with the jiggle valve down and this time I filled it from the upper radiator hose straight into the block, then topped it off at the radiator. Burped it for a little bit and the temps were perfect. Did great on the test drive too. So I'm thinking it was just a really persistent air bubble that I trapped by filling it up only by the radiator the first time. There were too many differing views on the jiggle valve position so I don't think that's what fixed it. Thanks guys!

Just to add even more differing views, t*stat at 6, makes a 10(plus or minus 2)* cooler diff :dance: