Trouble programming new OEM Toyota remote fob

[jmc8387]

Hi everyone,

I have my 1999 Toyota 4Runner Limited in for service at my local Toyota dealer. One of the tasks was to program a new OEM remote as I only had one original provided when I purchased the vehicle used.

They cannot get the programming to work. Apparently Toyota Corporate told them to try replacing all of the door lock actuators, as they were slowing down during the programming. We have now replaced all four door lock actuators and cannot get it to program.

After looking at parts diagrams online, I see that there is in fact a door lock actuator for the rear lift gate. I had asked them if this was the case, but they thought it would likely not be the issue so we only ordered the four.

I was told today that it may be an issue with the "body ecm/ecu." I question this as I have no issues with anything working properly. I am more inclined to think the issue may be the fact that I still have the original 22 year old door lock actuator on the lift gate.

Have any of you had this programming issue? Any insight is greatly appreciated. Thank you in advance.

 

[Devbot]

Since I've joined this forum a year ago I've probably seen 100+ threads about key fob programming not working, seems to be a wildly inconsistent and extremely prevalent issue.

 

[5VZ-FE]

I agree with above that this is one of the most widely experienced and also most inconsistent issues.

If the issue with your door lock actuators was that they were worn out and slowed down or stopped activating after a couple of presses of the lock/unlock button, then I'd suggest using your free hand to move the door-lock-indicator (the little tab at the top of the door panel that goes up and down to tell you if it's locked (I don't know what it's actually called)) to help out the motor.

When I bought a new remote I was having that issue and finally after a few days solved it with this method. It's not necessarily a sign of bad actuators, it's just a process that puts an exorbitant amount of stress on them.

<a href="!7501!http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/7501-programming-instructions-keyless-entry-remote.html">This thread</a> has all of the steps you need to program remotes yourself, which is handy if you ever need to do it again, instead of paying $85 at the dealership.

 

[FD7683]

I have no help but good luck with this one.

 

[19963.4lsr5]

Since I've joined this forum a year ago I've probably seen 100+ threads about key fob programming not working, seems to be a wildly inconsistent and extremely prevalent issue.

I bought a 15 dollar fob on Amazon a few years ago for the limited project and it programmed fine. It wasn’t available when I wanted a spare for my SR5. So, I tried a different one with the correct fcc number and reviews that stated it was for their early 3gen. I couldn’t get it to program. I took it to autozone to their fob tester and pointed my OEM at it and then the one I bought as a spare. They were two different frequencies. Sent it back and got a replacement and that one was just like the first. It wouldn’t program and the led on the tester at autozone flashed different than my OEM. The company said it is for my 97. I told them it doesn’t flash the tester anything close to my fob.

I ended up buying a used one on eBay for I think 40 dollars. Programmed on the first try.


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[Wraytex]

I had a slow passenger door actuator that was keeping me from programming it. When i got the replacement in and I was removing the position sensor, it broke from my carelessness. I had to get another lock position sensor to complete the programming. There is a lock sensor in the rear door as well. So all actuators and sensors need to be functional before you can successfully program the remote. At least this is my understanding of the system.

 

[FD7683]

I've always had trouble with the programming mode not entering on my 4Runner. Today I went to the local scrapyard to go hunt down a rear latch with a functioning "door ajar" light so the truck can recognize all 5 locks including the rear (original latch has the red wire snipped because it flickers the door ajar light and stays constantly on). As usual, didn't enter programming mode on the inside (cycling locks by button/helping the lever) until I tried a new method which was to use the outside handle lock cylinder using my key and cycle it from there. 4 attempts doing it and it FINALLY entered programming mode. Was able to program the fob no issue and now its working.

I later ended up bolting the original rear latch back into the truck because it was less rusty and the donor latch started to act funny with the door ajar light too but at least it recognized the door to be shut. It's nice to finally have my key fob working again

 

[Romeo1]

I thought I read somewhere that there dealer has a way of connecting and programming without the door lock song and dance?

I actually have a new body controller to see if that solves my issue before going through the doors.