Trying to find a member who recently posted about meth/water setup

Bijan

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It was a very clean setup. I forgot to SUB the thread. It was a kit for around $359 to my recollection.

I've dug up the past 10 pages but cant seem to locate it.

I've been feeling the heat coming from my motor after putting the supercharger on it. Even though winter is coming:hand: I want to start getting a good set up dialed in.
 
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It was a very clean setup. I forgot to SUB the thread. It was a kit for around $359 to my recollection.

I've dug up the past 10 pages but cant seem to locate it.

I've been feeling the heat coming from my motor after putting the supercharger on it. Even though winter is coming:hand: I want to start getting a good set up dialed in.

Meth injection lowers intake temps in the manifold and cylinders. This is nothing you can feel. If you are not detonating and getting timing pull the kit will do nothing. It's like adding race gas or higher octane fuel when not needed. You will also have to do a complete retune.

Even with the upgraded pully and fuel management I don't see why meth injection is needed at such low boost.
 
Is your motor really feeling the heat though? Sounds like you've since changed your pulley from the 2.1 so your motor should be OK now. All you've been worrying about now is a P0171 code, which is likely a boost or vacuum leak. I dealt with the same thing on mine for awhile, and mine was leaking out the back elbow. I put some permanex around it and it has been fine since. Meth isn't going to fix your P0171 code. Just keep trouble shooting, if anything your SC might be due for a rebuild.
 
Meth injection lowers intake temps in the manifold and cylinders. This is nothing you can feel. If you are not detonating and getting timing pull the kit will do nothing. It's like adding race gas or higher octane fuel when not needed. You will also have to do a complete retune.

Even with the upgraded pully and fuel management I don't see why meth injection is needed at such low boost.

I found this, but it's not much: http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/192981-here-my-water-methanol-injector-kit.html - kind of a sloppy install though, it could be done better.

I just picked up a used kit with a [real] progressive controller, injects based off boost and injector pulse width, or both. Once I go into boost I lose gobs of timing advance per my OBD reader, so there's power to be made by regaining that timing. Also switching to the 2.1 pulley to get above 10 PSI. I can only get 91 octane as well, my 4Runner loves Oregon 93 octane so I think it should be pretty good overall.
 
I found this, but it's not much: http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/192981-here-my-water-methanol-injector-kit.html - kind of a sloppy install though, it could be done better.

I just picked up a used kit with a [real] progressive controller, injects based off boost and injector pulse width, or both. Once I go into boost I lose gobs of timing advance per my OBD reader, so there's power to be made by regaining that timing. Also switching to the 2.1 pulley to get above 10 PSI. I can only get 91 octane as well, my 4Runner loves Oregon 93 octane so I think it should be pretty good overall.

That timing pull is due to major detonation and is really bad. Not only taking power but slowing burning valves and pitting piston tops.

Have you retuned or are you running the stock ecu still? Meth injection on a low boost build is more of a band aid. Some more fuel should help that timing pull. Meth injection should be added once the fuel is at its limit. With stock pulley I dont see how 91/93 octane is being maxed.
 
That timing pull is due to major detonation and is really bad. Not only taking power but slowing burning valves and pitting piston tops.

Have you retuned or are you running the stock ecu still? Meth injection on a low boost build is more of a band aid. Some more fuel should help that timing pull. Meth injection should be added once the fuel is at its limit. With stock pulley I dont see how 91/93 octane is being maxed.

No, completely stock. I had to take everything off (intake) since it didn't pass smog and the strict CA visual check. Even the deckplate mod didn't pass since it's an "unapproved airbox modification". I can't run fuel injectors since if they run rich at low speeds it won't pass the emissions testing, so I'm rather limited on what I can do. Water/meth makes the most sense since it can be quickly removed so I can pass again in 2 years and doesn't modify the stock fuel system.

With the intake mods I do run lean though, the LT fuel trims are maxed out, but not so much to throw a code. That's where I lose timing advance. Note that the charger has been on there for over 100k miles so I'm not worried about engine damage at all, valves were in great shape the last time I had it apart.
 
Is your motor really feeling the heat though? Sounds like you've since changed your pulley from the 2.1 so your motor should be OK now. All you've been worrying about now is a P0171 code, which is likely a boost or vacuum leak. I dealt with the same thing on mine for awhile, and mine was leaking out the back elbow. I put some permanex around it and it has been fine since. Meth isn't going to fix your P0171 code. Just keep trouble shooting, if anything your SC might be due for a rebuild.

Found vac leak. She seems to be running like a champ now. Check engine light turned itself off after driving around 20 or so miles.

Maybe I'm just being paranoid.
 
Nice! Where was it?

The smaller hose that goes from "brass barb" to "FPR"...

It was tucked under the back of the blower...sort of looked plugged in - but wasnt...go figure.

I had to climb on my bumper - rest my knees on my radiator support, and tuck my head all the way to the back of the engine to look where the FPR port was. BOOM

Screen_Shot_2016_10_04_at_4_19_37_PM.png
 
IMO I would never run w/m on an SUV.

It's there to extract every last bit of power out of your setup by keeping IAT's low, increasing octane which allows you to tune for more timing.

I use it on my B5S4 which is making around 450awhp. It's a risky thing to do though, the fittings like to leak, pumps like to fail. It's a hassle that does not help with reliability.

I feel like on a 4runner it would be a waste of effort.

Also, as mentioned above, the heat you feel has little to do with what the engine is feeling in the combustion chamber. Only way to find out if it's necessary is to log intake air temps and knock correction factors. Then after install you need to do that, as well as add a wideband o2 sensor so that you would know if the pump has failed. If you tune for it, then if/when the pump fails, you will run lean in addition to detonation from the lack of methanol, and boom.

Just MHO.
 

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