Trying to reset key fob...power locks displaying odd behavior

[hazertag]

I am trying to reset my key fob after replacing the battery. I follow the instructions I found on line about locking/unlocking the doors multiple times etc.

Problem is, after two or three rounds of locking/unlocking my power locks kind of stop working. The noise of the actuation is still audible but the locks don't move fully up or down. They just have this little hesitation movement but ultimately don't move anywhere.

This I think is preventing me from resetting the key fob because I cant go through the mechanical process to reprogram it.

Anyone dealt with this or have any ideas for fixes? I looked at all the fuses that seemed like they might be related, and none of them looked bad. I did replace the square 30A in the cabin fuse box but it didn't help.

Thanks for any help.

 

[Malcolm99]

This must be a factory immobilizer 99+ sercurity system I'm guessing. There are a few things that will cause this, one of the door lock actuators is not within its range of motion or sticky see FSM for adjustments(usually the rear hatch lock actuator is problematic due to its location/environment), worn out lock actuator, or weak battery. I've read that as long as you can manually help the drivers door lock in sequence it should register a new fob, you also may have to delete a Fob as only 2 can be registered and it came with 2(this could be only the key I forget) I'm also sure FOBs don't lose memory the security system retains the FIC radio frequency from each of the 2 Fobs, so I wouldn't mess with the original FOB setting unless you are adding a new FOB. It's a PITA, why they did it this way is beyond me, don't lose all your keys whatever you do or your SOL and need a new ECU as they cannot be reprogrammed AFAIK,, I've heard rumours it can be done but no evidence, and since Toyota supplied new ECU's to people with 99-00' in this case I suspect it cannot be reprogrammed with a new key without an original key, and the valet key won't let you reprogram..
I just swapped the battery in my FOB a second ago, no problems with the security system recognizing it, swapped batteries a few times now, never an issue with recognition afterwards.

 

[Novashards]

I had the same problem, turned out to be a common issue with age and heat with the old lock motors.

One way to get around the motors failing is to manually lock and unlock the door by lifting and pushing down the driver door lock instead of pressing the electronic button. It still takes some practice to get the timing right.

https://www.toyota-4runner.org/2979250-post18.html

 

[ArmArak]

Ya I had the same issue. It's one of the weaker systems in our runners. Just assist the power locks by pulling and pushing as you cycle the locks.

 

[Malcolm99]

The main issue I think should be noted is that this is not a new key FOB he is adding so he shouldn't need to register an old FOB that is already programmed. And he would have to manually push pull the lock lever and actuate the power locks in sequence as mentioned adding to the frustration of adding a fob... I pulled my hair out trying to add a fob to a friends rig, same issue, battery charger and a lil help for a few actuations, Much later his locks started actuating on there own, rear hatch lock was rusted and the rod popped out of its position jamming up its actuation. The PO's FOB is already programmed so maybe the FOB needs a good cleaning, but I saw no way to clean those raised buttons and mine works so didn't wanna spray electrical cleaner in a captured button that isn't acting up

 

[hazertag]

I tried manually assisting the lock while pushing the power lock button and still couldn’t get it to work. I should note I do have other electrical issues:

-Dash button for rear window does not work
-rear wiper does not work
-moon roof does not work
-rear defrost does not work

I have troubleshot all these to no avail. I wouldn’t have thought they were all related but maybe they are and that’s why I’m having issues with the key fob.

 

[Malcolm99]

Year make model?, 99+ they are integrated into the security system. And rear hatch control issues can be a number of problems and most likely related to your current issue, there's a lot going on back there, lots of info on those problems depending on how neglected the rear hatch components are, everything from key cylinder, mechanizim and the wires all they way out the hatch assembly and even its own lil ecu.

 

[hazertag]

2001 sr5. of note, using the key to actuate the rear window works just fine.

 

[Malcolm99]

Time to open up the hatch covers and comb over it all, so you do have the factory Toyota immobilizer, says on the ignition ring?, the window even has settings for max height or recognizing it is all the way up and some setup at first I think if you follow the FSM but usually just works if you use it.,, if it thinks the rear window isn't all the way up, you have no rear wiper or heater.

 

[hazertag]

Well, alrighty then. Sounds like I have a project on my hands.

Have any YouTube videos or descriptions of what I should be doing/looking for that I can reference?

 

[Malcolm99]

Sorry just an avid wrencher, I edited some of my responses for more detail, search and you will find all the different possible causes, best to dig in and have a look see, every rig/gen has its own attitude.