Tundra 13WL after market upgrade

[RunnerLimited]

Spring is here so im doing a lot of maintenance work on my 4runner

I have the 13WL tundra brake upgrade and I have been noticing that when I use the brakes my steering wheel tends to shake up a bit, Im guessing its warped rotors or bad brake pads. Anyone know any good aftermarket rotors that can replace the OEM tundra rotors, when I look online I find all these 320mm rotors and I understand that the 13WL is 230mm. Anyone have a site or any recommendations?

Next up on the list rear LCA and Adj Pan hard bar. Then LBJ,UBJ new front bearings and driver side knuckle.:hat::hat:

 

[nc-grayson]

I haven't actually done the 13WL upgrade yet, but my research has shown me that a lot on this forum will recommend OEM rotors and OEM pads. Chances are your current rotors are just warped.

I can't vouch for this personally, but i've seen a handful of posts on here comparing (with visuals) the quality of OEM rotors vs generic napa/advance/oreily's stuff.

good luck with your searches!

 

[LittleCaesar]

If the Tundra OEM rotors still look good then I'd just remove them and get them turned.

 

[Paperjam]

Warped rotors are typically felt in the brake pedal, not the steering wheel. Are You sure your steering and front suspension is nice and tight? Tires are balanced? I would rotate tires and check that stuff before condemning the brakes. You can check rotors for warpapge with a dial indicator.

 

[AZ4Running]

No warped front rotors will cause the steering wheel to shake when the brakes are applied. In the pedal its normally the rear brakes. layball:

 

[XMountainMan]

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...ements-231mm-13wl-tundra-calipers-rotors.html

Have you seen this post yet? [MENTION=44220]BigFishAllDay[/MENTION] killed the TBU, more info than I could shake a stick at. I just found the tread last week and still have not gotten all the way through it. He has pics of OEM vs. Aftermarket Rotors and all the specs. Most defiantly worth a look if you have not already seen it.

 

[Paperjam]

No warped front rotors will cause the steering wheel to shake when the brakes are applied. In the pedal its normally the rear brakes. layball:

Not 100% true at all. The ONLY way I can see this happening is if you have a compounded bad wheel bearing with warped rotors. I've diagnosed many many sets of warped brakes and a shake in the wheel is much more likely loose suspension components. Warped rotors will almost always push the piston into the caliper, hence why you feel it in the pedal. Just because it's during braking does not mean it's the brakes. If you are feeling it in the steering the force has to be transferred there somehow.

One of the main reasons the tundra upgrade is a thing is due to the larger mass that the rotors have, this is there for heat dissipation. Heat = warped rotors, or rapid cooling of hot components.

You would be hard pressed to warp a tundra rotor in a 4Runner due to the lighter truck. Maybe if you hit water after a long hard brake, or pull a trailer a lot. OR the caliper is sticking on causing excessive heat.

 

[RunnerLimited]

Warped rotors are typically felt in the brake pedal, not the steering wheel. Are You sure your steering and front suspension is nice and tight? Tires are balanced? I would rotate tires and check that stuff before condemning the brakes. You can check rotors for warpapge with a dial indicator.

I feel it in the brakes too, and it kinda pulls to a side a little bit, well aftermarket I was looking at like brembos and brands like that not napa or those other stores.

Im 90% sure everything is tight but I broke a stud on the knuckle where the LBJ is connected while doing my CV's one day ,so im only running 3 instead of 4 . Ill see if those are tight. and since im going back to 33's mud duratracs instead of my dedicated winters ill skip the balancing till I get the new tires on.

Ive heard of brake balancing and I thought it was kinda dumb is there such a thing?

 

[Paperjam]

I feel it in the brakes too, and it kinda pulls to a side a little bit, well aftermarket I was looking at like brembos and brands like that not napa or those other stores.

Im 90% sure everything is tight but I broke a stud on the knuckle where the LBJ is connected while doing my CV's one day ,so im only running 3 instead of 4 . Ill see if those are tight. and since im going back to 33's mud duratracs instead of my dedicated winters ill skip the balancing till I get the new tires on.

Ive heard of brake balancing and I thought it was kinda dumb is there such a thing?

Rotors will be balanced from the manufacturer so no need to worry there. If it's pulling consistantly to one side only while braking I would check to see if the OPPOSITE caliper to the direction of the pull is sticking. If it does not apply even pressure between both calipers it can pull.

Alignment can also be a cause too, did you lift the truck and get the alignment checked l? Changing camber will change the toe as well. If it's toed out a bit all sorts of wonky stuff starts happening while braking. I usually do alignments after changing things like front struts, upper control arms etc.

See what happens when you change tires too, stuff like split belts wil cause a steering wheel shake while braking sometimes.

If you are worried about rotor warpage, again check them with a dial indicator, it's a cheap tool (you should see less than 0.05" runout), OR simply have them machined at a shop, most auto shops have some sort of a brake lathe. It's way way cheaper.

There is lots of how to videos on YouTube to check this kind of stuff.

 

[RunnerLimited]

Rotors will be balanced from the manufacturer so no need to worry there. If it's pulling consistantly to one side only while braking I would check to see if the OPPOSITE caliper to the direction of the pull is sticking. If it does not apply even pressure between both calipers it can pull.

Alignment can also be a cause too, did you lift the truck and get the alignment checked l? Changing camber will change the toe as well. If it's toed out a bit all sorts of wonky stuff starts happening while braking. I usually do alignments after changing things like front struts, upper control arms etc.

See what happens when you change tires too, stuff like split belts wil cause a steering wheel shake while braking sometimes.

If you are worried about rotor warpage, again check them with a dial indicator, it's a cheap tool (you should see less than 0.05" runout), OR simply have them machined at a shop, most auto shops have some sort of a brake lathe. It's way way cheaper.

There is lots of how to videos on YouTube to check this kind of stuff.

Yeah Ill be checking it out, ill do another alignment after I get my tires done, thing is it happens after driving the car for a while, when I start of driving I don't feel any shakes but after a while of driving that's when it shakes, especially after a long drive on the highway

 

[JRZEE2000TR4LTD]

Yeah Ill be checking it out, ill do another alignment after I get my tires done, thing is it happens after driving the car for a while, when I start of driving I don't feel any shakes but after a while of driving that's when it shakes, especially after a long drive on the highway

Check the calipers. Look for uneven wear (inner/outer pad thicker than the other one)or cracking in the pads.

 

[criera]

Im 90% sure everything is tight but I broke a stud on the knuckle where the LBJ is connected while doing my CV's one day ,so im only running 3 instead of 4

I'm not one to tell anyone what to do, but for gods sake, fix THIS first before you do anything. You are 25% closer to catastrophe running like this.

And don't forget to use thread lock on those as well.

...and a torque wrench

 

[Paperjam]

Yeah Ill be checking it out, ill do another alignment after I get my tires done, thing is it happens after driving the car for a while, when I start of driving I don't feel any shakes but after a while of driving that's when it shakes, especially after a long drive on the highway

Ok, so it's changing with temperature. It's starting to sound like a split belt in one of your front tires to me.

i would honestly just do a quick tire rotation to see if the shake changes or moves into the back. Do it before you swap the other tires on.

If there is no change, start checking your suspension and brakes.

 

[gamefreakgc]

Wait, are the shakes ONLY when braking or at all times? Those are two different issues.

Also, what kind of calipers did you use? The pulling definitely sounds like a bad caliper. Were they used Tundra ones or remanufactured with new hardware?

 

[AZ4Running]

Yeah o ull when braking is normally a bad caliper, stuck piston. Look at the caliper on the opposite side of the direction if the pull. Vibration in the steering when braking is warped front rotors. Been a mechanic for a while and see this all the time. Have the rotors cut or replace them. I garranty the vibration in the steering whell will stop. A stuck caliper can cause the pads to drag and create extra heat that will warp the rotors. Stuck slides can have the same effect. Good luck to you at getting it fixed.