Tundra Brake Upgrade
- Thread starter ArmArak
- Start date
Register to hide this ad
VernySanders
New member
My pedal has always been sort of soft after the tundra brake upgrade but i will tell you what, when you really get into a situation where you need to come to a quick stop, you will thank yourself. Especially if you're running larger tires. Ive had mine for over a year now and I also have no warpage in my rotors to speak of and ive experienced improved performance after breaking in.
Mtn. Runner
New member
I’ve been teeter tottering back and forth weather to do the TBU upgrade or not. Most guys will say it’s a big upgrade but I find so many mixed opinions and a lot of people with bad or unexpected results. I’ve heard everything from soft pedal to the very end, decreased braking performance, one guy couldn’t get the right pedal feel and a shop recommended a master cylinder from a T-100 truck(which is big bucks). Overall I’ve seen a lot of people that have had poor results, but also most claim it was a good upgrade but you don’t hear a lot about better overall performance. Keep us updated
Novashards
Member
I noticed a huge difference when I did the 199 upgrade. I also changed all the rubber brake lines out for stainless steel braided lines at the same time so that have have also effected the feel of the brakes. Now they respond very quickly, and grab hard (my wife thinks too hard compared to her suburban, which has a soft pedal)
spartacus
Senior Member
In my experience Toyota oem rotors for 16 inch wheels don't warp. After market do. I vé had oem pads and rotors after trying out over the counter brands and really think it's worth the extra dollars. some swear that the tbu upgrade is worth it. I would prefer rear disc conversion.
OrRunner
New member
OEM tundra rotors is the best of all worlds. Rear disc conversion is a nightmare on these vehicles, check some of the threads on it. No park brake, pedal feel issues, and to no real benefit that can't be achieved with TBU and properly functioning and adjusted rear brakes.
spartacus
Senior Member
I followed [MENTION=168172]sleepydad[/MENTION] build and he did a really nice job of rear disc conversion and seems fairly do able.
sleepydad
Senior Member
it kind of depends on what your idea of nightmare is I guess. was it a lot of work to get rid of the old drums? yea but I have done it now on 2x trucks and it's totally worth it IMO.
as long as your brakes are working correctly in the first place the mustang sized calipers are a perfect match on these trucks and the ABS works perfectly.
and yes no matter what e-brake setup you do after the fact it sucks but I have never felt like the OEM e-brake on these trucks was a winner.
that's what worked for me and triggered them several times.
so bled system, went out and bedded in new pads several times through routine....then started stomping on them hard to trigger ABS several times, then bled system again
My TBU included Toyota stock rotors, calipers ( rebuilt) and new heavy duty Toyota pads and shims., stainless lines front and back, switch to synthetic. I have noticed no difference in pedal feel, unless my pedal pressure sucked to begin with....and I have had several people drive my 4runner...who know 4runners....and no one has said a thing about pedal feel. Mind you ….my sons 2017 Tacoma pedal is stiffer.
So just throwing this out there....this winter I had brake problems and it was related to the check valve...prob has nothing to do with your situation
ArmArak
New member
I installed the OEM Tundra rotors, OEM brake pads, OEM shims; the only aftermarket part were the calipers. I still have the stock tires so maybe that's why I'm not feeling the difference too much. I did a proper bleed using the power-bleeder but I think they are a little soft now, how can i fix it? I also feel that the travel increased a lot and seems like the brakes grab after a bit of travel and not immediately.
Thanks
Thanks
Last edited:
You may still be having air in your brake lines if you are having a soft peddle. Activate your abs as mentioned above, quick stops on a wet road or dirt road will kick in the abs, then bleed again.
I too had the same common problem of a lower peddle but, I got used to it. Braking is still awesome.
It was a night and day difference when I changed out 3 of my brake lines with oem's. Didn't know how much the lines flexed until the new ones went on. Another side benefit was my brake fluid stayed transparent/cleaner longer. The 19 yo ones (no outside cracking) were breaking down inside, leaving bits of rubber in the fluid turning the fluid darker in color.
Also keep in mind your steel spare tire could hit your caliper if you ran it. My 231 were slightly shaved when I had my steel spare tire on during a flat situation.
I too had the same common problem of a lower peddle but, I got used to it. Braking is still awesome.
It was a night and day difference when I changed out 3 of my brake lines with oem's. Didn't know how much the lines flexed until the new ones went on. Another side benefit was my brake fluid stayed transparent/cleaner longer. The 19 yo ones (no outside cracking) were breaking down inside, leaving bits of rubber in the fluid turning the fluid darker in color.
Also keep in mind your steel spare tire could hit your caliper if you ran it. My 231 were slightly shaved when I had my steel spare tire on during a flat situation.
leepoffaith
New member
I recently did the TBU with the Powerstop kit from Amazon and I have the soft pedal too!! It stops just fine, but the brake pedal engages slower and lower then it should. I have bled the brakes at least 6 times and still have that feeling. If I press down a little then lift and then repress the pedal it is perfect. I even tried going down a gravel road and engaging the ABS system to get air out TWICE and that didn't do it. I finally gave up and I'm sitting in the waiting area of a Toyota Service Department right now waiting for them to do a brake system bleed with their computer in order to actuate the ABS system and hopefully get the air out. The tech test drove it and felt exactly what I felt and said it definitely should not feel that way. He thinks it's an air bubble somewhere. We shall see!
4Runner4Leon
Senior Member
This discussion should include what size TBU folks are using - 199 or 231. 231's seem to have more problems with ABS and soft pedal; very few examples of those issues with 199's.
Also, the primary benefit of TBU is not so much stopping power as it is higher thermal capacity and hence reduced likelihood of warping or fading when going down mountain roads.
The actual braking capacity is not likely to change unless you have crappy brakes - I was able to trigger ABS with the original brakes, and that's the limiting factor.
I'm very happy with my 199 upgrade, but again, not for the stopping power but for less fading and warping.
Also, the primary benefit of TBU is not so much stopping power as it is higher thermal capacity and hence reduced likelihood of warping or fading when going down mountain roads.
The actual braking capacity is not likely to change unless you have crappy brakes - I was able to trigger ABS with the original brakes, and that's the limiting factor.
I'm very happy with my 199 upgrade, but again, not for the stopping power but for less fading and warping.
G_Raw
New member
I agree with Leon. I went 231 route. And after changing my brake booster, T100 master cylinder, stainless braided lines, calipers, rotors, pads, and full bleed with new brake fluid... pedal has more travel but when brakes grab... They grab! First few drives after the full system change I'd press like gradual like normal then do a harsh jerk stop. Now I know when the grab happens. I get no shimmy coming down mountain roads like I used too.
The pedal travel, stiffness, and grab will vary on the many factors at play here.
The pedal travel, stiffness, and grab will vary on the many factors at play here.
Please let us know the outcome of your service visit. I’m having the EXACT same symptoms with the 231 TBU.
2008 Tundra brakes
So I recently bought a 99 Highlander edition. I absolutely love it. It’s been supercharged and runs awesome. The only problem it has is the front rotors are warped (at least one is). So I wanted to replace them but have obviously heard the tundra upgrade is the way to go. I am on a pretty tight budget so I’m debating whether I should upgrade or not. I don’t tow and don’t plan on running anything larger than what I have now (265/75/16). However, I saw a guy online is selling his rotors, calipers, and pads off his 2008 tundra because he is doing a TRD brake upgrade. I am wondering if the second gen tundras brakes are the same as the first gen brakes that everyone is using for the upgrade. He is selling them for $275. From what I can tell it is everything I need for the upgrade so the price seems great. I’m just not sure they would fit and I’ve searched everywhere and can’t find any info on the second gen tundras.
So I recently bought a 99 Highlander edition. I absolutely love it. It’s been supercharged and runs awesome. The only problem it has is the front rotors are warped (at least one is). So I wanted to replace them but have obviously heard the tundra upgrade is the way to go. I am on a pretty tight budget so I’m debating whether I should upgrade or not. I don’t tow and don’t plan on running anything larger than what I have now (265/75/16). However, I saw a guy online is selling his rotors, calipers, and pads off his 2008 tundra because he is doing a TRD brake upgrade. I am wondering if the second gen tundras brakes are the same as the first gen brakes that everyone is using for the upgrade. He is selling them for $275. From what I can tell it is everything I need for the upgrade so the price seems great. I’m just not sure they would fit and I’ve searched everywhere and can’t find any info on the second gen tundras.
hoodlm
New member
What did you learn? What did you have to do to fix the problem?
Similar threads
