Tundra Calipers - Worth It?

I just got some slotted rotors from autozone and threw on a set of c-max pads. Loving it.

How do you like those C-MAX pads? Thinking I was getting the "best" pads, I put a set on my wife's Jeep Cherokee a few years back and they performed like shit. Going down the mountain they would overheat and fade like hell. I swapped them out for the Duralast Gold pads, and braking was much improved. Since then, I've stayed away from the C-MAX pads, and used Duralast Gold pads when I did the Tundra Brake Upgrade.

I've been extremely happy with my 231mm brakes. I only tow occasionally, but to me the upgrade was worth it.
 
So my choices are as follows:

  • 199mm Calipers - No Grinding or Spacers
  • 231mm Calipers - Grind down the inside of the wheel OR the caliper
  • 231mm Calipers - Use a spacer ~1/4" thick

For those of you running the 231mm calipers, do you know if you have the 13WG or 13WL? Or does it really make a difference..?
 
So my choices are as follows:

  • 199mm Calipers - No Grinding or Spacers
  • 231mm Calipers - Grind down the inside of the wheel OR the caliper
  • 231mm Calipers - Use a spacer ~1/4" thick

For those of you running the 231mm calipers, do you know if you have the 13WG or 13WL? Or does it really make a difference..?

I think you're way over thinking this. If you have a Dremel, or some other grinding tool, then go with the 13WL 231mm. Otherwise, go with the 199mm.

Personally, if I'm going to spend the time and money to change out the calipers, pads, and rotors, I'd install the biggest damn ones that I could.
 
I think you're way over thinking this. If you have a Dremel, or some other grinding tool, then go with the 13WL 231mm. Otherwise, go with the 199mm.

Personally, if I'm going to spend the time and money to change out the calipers, pads, and rotors, I'd install the biggest damn ones that I could.

I definitely want the 231's over the 199's..just checking to see if the spacers alone would work. I can see me screwing up the wheels somehow.. I don't have a problem cutting the dust shield!
 
For those of you running the 231mm calipers, do you know if you have the 13WG or 13WL? Or does it really make a difference..?

From the thread that I linked in the second post:

"I have found that shops don't distinguish between 13WL and 13WG, no one really seems to know the difference, and lots of people have gotten them mixed up. It is all about the brake line angle. Bottom line is, 13WL is needed for hard line fitting, but if you replace the hard line with flex line, you could use either."
 
I got 13wl's from a junkyard and the hard lines fit right up.

If you get 1" or more spacers you don't have to worry about messing up the threads on the lugs as the spacers are completely different that the 1/4" spacers.

If you go with the 1/4" ones I'd recommending replacing the front wheel studs with new rear studs, as they are a little longer and make putting the wheel back on easier.

Here is the difference between spacers:

40933d1376944904t-spidertrax-wheel-spacers-installed-today-reference-pics-2011-02-28_15-09-22_507.jpg


1/4"

spacer1.jpg
 
How do you like those C-MAX pads? Thinking I was getting the "best" pads, I put a set on my wife's Jeep Cherokee a few years back and they performed like shit. Going down the mountain they would overheat and fade like hell. I swapped them out for the Duralast Gold pads, and braking was much improved. Since then, I've stayed away from the C-MAX pads, and used Duralast Gold pads when I did the Tundra Brake Upgrade.

I've been extremely happy with my 231mm brakes. I only tow occasionally, but to me the upgrade was worth it.

Well they are a huge improvement over the wrapped rotors I have had on for years now, only had them on about a month now and the truck has been down for other work its needed and then I got sick. So not much driving time on them yet. It dose seem like they allow for a lot of slipping rather than grinding and stopping. But again huge improvement over what I had.
 
Are they awesome? No doubt.

Worth it? *** MAYBE ****

I have Brembo drilled and slotted rotors with performance pads and they work really really great. Going on 6 years now. Total cost is about half.

Did you buy the Brembo 4Runner rotors or the Brembo Tundra rotors?
 
I went over a crest and came to a sudden stop with evening sunlight directly at the old pickup truck in front of me; he was tailgating. Old trucks have dim brake lights. He had to swerve to avoid an accident himself.

I hit the brakes hard, and immediately thought. Damn.. The brake upgrade already paid for itself. :naughty:
 
not only is it a "performance" upgrade , but it is also a "SAFETY" upgrade

automatically a win/win situation!:flypig:

i went with all oem parts, dont want to take short cuts when its about the parts that slows and stops your ride.

i had a few times that i almost rear-ended someone ( it t'was probably my fault)
and i think there would of been a collision if i had my original brake setup.
plus it helps if you tow
 
I did the upgrade today. My old rotors were warped as, so I figured, might as well upgrade to tundra stuff for a bit more money.

I have 32's, lift, and a plate front bumper installed as well as rock sliders and a plate rear bumper going on so I think it's important to increase the power of the brakes to keep up with the extra weight.
 
I did the 231MM upgrade recently and it is incredible over the warped crappy rotors I had before... I have the same wheels as you and just got a 1/4" spacer and longer wheel studs. I didn't want the wheels to stick out too much like a 1" spacer would and it was much cheaper than that route.
TBU%202.jpg

TBU%201.jpg
 
I did this upgrade with the 231mm stoptech kit and love it. I can't say enough about the difference and how much of an improvement it was. The brakes are much more confidence inspiring than the factory set up. If you have bigger and heavier tires/wheels this is 100% a need to do upgrade. Like others have said, it's not just a performance thing, it is a safety thing for you, your passengers and everyone around your vehicle.
 
what's the down side of just grinding wheels? or calipers? or a little of both?!?

Does anyone have a picture of the difference in the wheels sticking out with a 1 inch spacer? I would think it would be pretty negligible?

soooo, the one inch spacer actually bolts to the rotor and the 1/4 inch spacer just slides on the lugs and gives the needed extra space but reduces the lug length to fasten the lug nuts...

Someone asked but don't think it was answered- is replacing the lugs easily done? just pound them out? and then purchase rear lugs that apparently are longer?

Thx
 
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the down side of grinding is balancing and structural integrity.

replacing the studs is pretty easy. just like you thought
 
tbu

No problem with abs. Straight forward with install. Like everyone else is saying it is night and day difference. Dove my brother 3rd gen with stock, fix his brake with new pads and still does not compare to the tbu.
 

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