FourRunning
New member
Well, finally got around to starting my TBU on the 2001. Got the passenger side done just fine. I'm using NAPA Ultra Premium 86931CR ceramic coated rotors, NAPA Adaptive One AD-7877 pads, Powerstop S2712 13WL calipers and new 90080-10213 caliper mounting bolts. The dust shield on the passenger side is swiss cheese. Didn't really even need a dremel on it, other than to smooth the rust out after I snapped it away by hand. I guess i should replace that shield soon. I was wondering if a Tundra brake shield would bolt on since i have to replace it. Anyone try that?
Now for the nightmare. 4 years ago had a safety inspection done requiring my front left caliper to be replaced. The shop did the work while I waited and when I left, the caliper fell off and into my wheel. I have 17" 6 spoke FJ wheels on Runner so luckily it fell completely off and into the wheel, otherwise it would have bound up the front wheel and who knows what could have happened. Anyway, the shop sent out a flatbed and got me back in. Seems they didn't even tighten the bolts up at all. So two years ago, and at my next inspection, they pulled that wheel for inspection (different shop). They called me out and showed me the earlier shop had put a larger caliper on that wheel and the pads were overhanging the rotor. I guess the first shop thought I originally had 16" wheels, but it had 15". Probably the reason they didn't install the caliper mounting bolts and got sidetracked. Anyway, the caliper and rotor mismatch actually held up and had no issues while in service.
So here I am, getting around to the driver's side and the first thing I ran into was the top bolt had a 18mm head. No biggie, the originals had fallen out and were lost so they used something else. I had them soaking twice for 15-20 minutes with PB, but couldn't budge it with a 24" 1/2" beaker bar and ended up rounding the hex a bit. Went to the lower bolt, a factory bolt, and really went to work on it. Same thing, wouldn't budge a bit. Finally had it snap off about half way inside the caliper. These guys must have used red Locktite on the bolts, just to screw the next guy.
So my dilemma. What do I try and do with this? I thought about just working on the upper bolt, but if that snapped off, I'm stuck 20 miles from town with no other vehicle. The broken lower bolt still has about 1/2" inside the caliper so it's holding it stable and I know that top bolt isn't coming out. I removed the passenger side upgrade parts and put it back with the old caliper and rotor and drove it in to town twice. No issues, but obviously, I need to fix that driver's side.
To get that caliper off, I could put heat to the top bolt, but I'm sure it will melt the seals and damage the bearing? I wish the 3rd Gens had the awesome hub/bearing assemblies like the later years. Trying to stay away from having to drill and tap my knuckle by shearing off that top bolt. Anyone have any luck with heat on those knuckles without damaging the bearings or seals? I'm hoping to get that top bolt out to where i can remove the caliper, then hopefully put heat to the lower bolt while working on it with a pair of visegrips. I could also weld the two pieces together and use the wrench.
Stupid question: Can you remove the pads and somehow get that rotor off with the caliper still attached or is there not enough play? Sure doesn't look like it.
Thanks in advance for anyone's input. Been definitely scrounging this site for month getting ready for this project and others so look forward to contributing with any fixes, tricks or screw-up lessons.
Now for the nightmare. 4 years ago had a safety inspection done requiring my front left caliper to be replaced. The shop did the work while I waited and when I left, the caliper fell off and into my wheel. I have 17" 6 spoke FJ wheels on Runner so luckily it fell completely off and into the wheel, otherwise it would have bound up the front wheel and who knows what could have happened. Anyway, the shop sent out a flatbed and got me back in. Seems they didn't even tighten the bolts up at all. So two years ago, and at my next inspection, they pulled that wheel for inspection (different shop). They called me out and showed me the earlier shop had put a larger caliper on that wheel and the pads were overhanging the rotor. I guess the first shop thought I originally had 16" wheels, but it had 15". Probably the reason they didn't install the caliper mounting bolts and got sidetracked. Anyway, the caliper and rotor mismatch actually held up and had no issues while in service.
So here I am, getting around to the driver's side and the first thing I ran into was the top bolt had a 18mm head. No biggie, the originals had fallen out and were lost so they used something else. I had them soaking twice for 15-20 minutes with PB, but couldn't budge it with a 24" 1/2" beaker bar and ended up rounding the hex a bit. Went to the lower bolt, a factory bolt, and really went to work on it. Same thing, wouldn't budge a bit. Finally had it snap off about half way inside the caliper. These guys must have used red Locktite on the bolts, just to screw the next guy.
So my dilemma. What do I try and do with this? I thought about just working on the upper bolt, but if that snapped off, I'm stuck 20 miles from town with no other vehicle. The broken lower bolt still has about 1/2" inside the caliper so it's holding it stable and I know that top bolt isn't coming out. I removed the passenger side upgrade parts and put it back with the old caliper and rotor and drove it in to town twice. No issues, but obviously, I need to fix that driver's side.
To get that caliper off, I could put heat to the top bolt, but I'm sure it will melt the seals and damage the bearing? I wish the 3rd Gens had the awesome hub/bearing assemblies like the later years. Trying to stay away from having to drill and tap my knuckle by shearing off that top bolt. Anyone have any luck with heat on those knuckles without damaging the bearings or seals? I'm hoping to get that top bolt out to where i can remove the caliper, then hopefully put heat to the lower bolt while working on it with a pair of visegrips. I could also weld the two pieces together and use the wrench.
Stupid question: Can you remove the pads and somehow get that rotor off with the caliper still attached or is there not enough play? Sure doesn't look like it.
Thanks in advance for anyone's input. Been definitely scrounging this site for month getting ready for this project and others so look forward to contributing with any fixes, tricks or screw-up lessons.
