Tundra Upgrade Advice

One more question - I plan to flush the whole system before changing out the calipers to keep the new ones clean as possible. After install the calipers, do I need to bleed @ all 4 wheels again or just the front two that I am working on?

That's what I did when I installed my calipers. Dot 3 fluid is hygroscopy, and need to be flushed every 2 years.
It doesn't hurt to put in new brake fluid in all 4 brakes while your at it.
Try not to get any air bubbles in the abs while your doing the tbu. It's not an end of the world fubar. It just an extra step trying to get the air bubbles out of it.
 
That's what I did when I installed my calipers. Dot 3 fluid is hygroscopy, and need to be flushed every 2 years.
It doesn't hurt to put in new brake fluid in all 4 brakes while your at it.
Try not to get any air bubbles in the abs while your doing the tbu. It's not an end of the world fubar. It just an extra step trying to get the air bubbles out of it.

Waiting for my EBC rotors n pads. Bought the 05 Toy Tun Reman's, they look great, hopefully they perform as such.
Also purchased a bleeder to plug into my compressor line, for one-guy bleed effort.. :-)

Link: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Pneumatic-...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649
 
I did the front brake upgrade over the weekend, and figured I'd share my experience.

When trying to flush the whole system, I broke the first bleeder valve screw in the sequence, so I will need to replace that wheel cylinder when I do the rear brakes. The thing didn't budge, so it's still sealed. I even soaked it with penetrating oil for about 5 days leading up to the attempt.

Besides that, the job went pretty well. I used this kit from Callahan/brake_overstock on eBay. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Front-Brak...:sc:ShippingMethodExpress!60067!US!-1&vxp=mtr

I did break the front passenger hardline when removing it from the old caliper...and I'm glad I did because it must have been barely holding up to the pressure of the brake system...I hardly wrenched on it before it broke. I replaced it with a generic hard line from auto zone. The diameter is 3/16" and the fittings are M10 x 1.0. I had to bend the line myself, which took a little time but went ok. I had the option of an 8" or 12" line. I ended up using the 8" which was a little tight, but the 12" seemed like too much. I did find that the 8" (the way I bent it) got in the way of the top caliper mounting bolt, so to I will have to disconnect the bracket that mounts the hose-to-hard line connection to get to it in the future, which honestly is a good move anyway - it gives you a little more room to work.

Because of my complication with the rear wheel cylinder, I only bled the fronts. I did each side twice and the pedal feels great (at least as good, if not stiffer than it used to - but my runner is the only one I've ever driven). I still plan on replacing rear wheel cylinder when it warm up a little bit, but it's hard to find a warm garage in the Chicago winter.

Thanks for all the help everyone.

Especially to [MENTION=120071]mtbtim[/MENTION] - your videos are SO nice to have - because of them I came to the job well prepared and with a great understanding of what needed to be done and what might go wrong. THANKS!
 
Especially to [MENTION=120071]mtbtim[/MENTION] - your videos are SO nice to have - because of them I came to the job well prepared and with a great understanding of what needed to be done and what might go wrong. THANKS!

[MENTION=102606]infamousRNR[/MENTION] and I are happy you're making good use of our videos. When you get around to replacing your wheel cylinder, maybe you'll decide to replace the shoes at the same time and we have a video you can use. https://youtu.be/IJkVEBYSecs

Happy Wrenching Brother!
 
I did the front brake upgrade over the weekend, and figured I'd share my experience.

When trying to flush the whole system, I broke the first bleeder valve screw in the sequence, so I will need to replace that wheel cylinder when I do the rear brakes. The thing didn't budge, so it's still sealed. I even soaked it with penetrating oil for about 5 days leading up to the attempt.

Besides that, the job went pretty well. I used this kit from Callahan/brake_overstock on eBay. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Front-Brak...:sc:ShippingMethodExpress!60067!US!-1&vxp=mtr

I did break the front passenger hardline when removing it from the old caliper...and I'm glad I did because it must have been barely holding up to the pressure of the brake system...I hardly wrenched on it before it broke. I replaced it with a generic hard line from auto zone. The diameter is 3/16" and the fittings are M10 x 1.0. I had to bend the line myself, which took a little time but went ok. I had the option of an 8" or 12" line. I ended up using the 8" which was a little tight, but the 12" seemed like too much. I did find that the 8" (the way I bent it) got in the way of the top caliper mounting bolt, so to I will have to disconnect the bracket that mounts the hose-to-hard line connection to get to it in the future, which honestly is a good move anyway - it gives you a little more room to work.

Because of my complication with the rear wheel cylinder, I only bled the fronts. I did each side twice and the pedal feels great (at least as good, if not stiffer than it used to - but my runner is the only one I've ever driven). I still plan on replacing rear wheel cylinder when it warm up a little bit, but it's hard to find a warm garage in the Chicago winter.

Thanks for all the help everyone.

Especially to [MENTION=120071]mtbtim[/MENTION] - your videos are SO nice to have - because of them I came to the job well prepared and with a great understanding of what needed to be done and what might go wrong. THANKS!

hahah, yea, rust sucks. I broke one hard line on the PS, took a while but got both rears open without breaking. Lots of WD40 & patients.
 

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