Turns over but doesn't ignite

W

Wayne

New member
When I came out of work today my 97 wouldn't ignite. It turned over just fine, and sounded normal. I thought maybe it was because the lot is at an angle and I was low on fuel, so I let it roll out, turned it around and pointed it the other way. No change. I checked all the fuses under the dash and in the box under the hood. No blown fuses.

Is it possible this is related to low fuel and the injectors? The fuel really was not that low, and I certainly did not run out, the light came on a few miles from work but I've driven at least 30+ miles that way in the past. I don't even think the light stayed on. I have never had any running problems before with this vehicle, except when a trailer harness short kept blowing my running fuse.

I'm going to take my spare car down with some gas just to see if that helps, although I don't think it will. Not being much good for electrical testing beyond seeing if the plugs spark, what else should I look for?
I'm broke thanks to large recent medical and veterinary expenses so I can't even afford to have it towed to a shop.
 
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Chk you fuel pump. It might be dead.


If it not working, Take your hand and beat the bottom of the gas tank. It might jolt the pump enough the start it going. But your pump will need to be replaced because it will leave you stranded again.
 
How do I check the fuel pump? I realized today I've done so little work on this thing in the 4 years I've had it I didn't even know where the distributor was (I found it). I presume I have to find the fuel line and remove it...
 
The fuel line should be on your drivers side frame rail, that's how it is on my 2000. I would assume you could disconnect the fuel line after or before the fuel filter, place a bucket under to catch any fuel, and have someone turn over the engine quickly and see if any fuel is pumping out. But Im not 100% positive about doing it this way, but I cant see a reason why it wouldn't work. I have never tested one THIS way. I have tested one that was out of the tank already, using a battery and ran alcohol though the pump. It worked lol.
 
Well I did some more testing tonite and after adding fuel it still won't start. BUt there's spark so fuel is looking like the problem. I couldn't get the only easily accessible fuel line connection in the engine compartment apart and it looked kind of fragile so I didn't want to force it. But I found this pic of thet connection and someone else forced it:
disconnect_fuel.JPG



Maybe I can also do it underneath, like suggested. I couldn't find the pump itself is it somewhere lovely like on top of the fuel tank? I banged on the tank some but to no avail. Tell me the pump isn't IN the tank, please.

I suppose there is a chance the EFI relay is bad. Is there any way for a dummy to test it?
 
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I'm pretty sure the fuel pump is inside the tank mounted on top. And what do you mean force the fuel line? You should be able to just crawl under, locate the fuel filter and un-bolt it at the fuel line. No forcing involved.

And the EFI relay you should be able to hear it "click". At least most relays do click when turned on. Not sure if the EFI relay is any different.
 
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Get a hammer and bang the bottom of the fuel tank. Then try to start it. It might jolt the pump into working again.


Either way, You need to replace the pump.
 
Might also be your fuel pump relay that has stopped working. Possibly not your pump. If your fuel pump relay has gone bad, your pump will not receive power.
 
It might be the fuel pump. If it's worn and just sticking, the hitting the fuel tank lightly with a hammer (preferably a rubber mallet) while someone else cranks the engine, might get it to run again temporarily. If it does start with that method, don't shut it off until you park the vehicle where it can sit, in case it won't start again until the pump is replaced. Yes, the fuel pump is inside the fuel tank.

On the other hand, there are several things that could fail, and cause it to not start. There could a blown fuse. ECU's can fail. Etc.

How long has it been since the timing belt was replaced? If they are old, they can break without warning. Then the rotating assembly (crank, rods, pistons) will spin when you try to start the engine, but of course it won't start with a broken T-belt. The 5VZ-FE is a non-interference engine, so if the T-belt breaks, the engine will just stop running, without damaging valves, pistons, or cylinder head(s).

To check the T-belt, you can remove the cam drive sprocket cover on the front of the engine, and see if it's still intact.
 
Ugh I've been trying not to think about the timing belt. It is overdue and I've been hearing some rattling sounds when it starts up that made me wonder if it might be going.
 
Sightly dangerous: Have someone crank the engine over for a 5 seconds and smell the exhaust. Rich=missing spark or timing is off. Lean probably the pump but obviously not getting fuel. Pump test connector is right under the driver rear seat.

These pumps are notorious for going weak. But in that case will only require a few more seconds of turn over to fire. MOST CASES.

NOTE: power is only applied to pump while stater is engaged and after.

THIS FUEL PUMP DOES NOT PRIME WITH KEY IN NORMAL RUN POSITION.

Save you some time! Good luck.
 
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I don't know anything about stators but I presume you mean the car has to be cranking for the pump to run
 
I disconnected the fuel line before the filter, and had someone crank it. Nothing came out from the fuel tank side, though after some seconds of cranking it started backflowing from the forward end. So now its narrowed down to fuel pump and relay I guess.
 
IIRC the crank sensor plays a roll in keeping the fuel pump relay energized. Bad crank sensor should cause the CEL to come on though, just a thought.
 
Sounds like pump or relay. Tell me you haven't gone 4 years without doing maintenance on your Runner! Lol
Once you get it fixed, do some maintenance on her! Treat her right and she will do the same for you. :becky:
 
Where does maintenance even enter into the equation of my fuel pump or relay going bad? How are you maintaining your relays and fuel pump?

Bad Obsession said:
Sounds like pump or relay. Tell me you haven't gone 4 years without doing maintenance on your Runner! Lol
Once you get it fixed, do some maintenance on her! Treat her right and she will do the same for you. :becky:
Click to expand...
 
How can I test the relay, when should it click? If it clicks only when I turn the engine over its unlikely I will hear it. I don't want to drop the tank if its the relay, I need to figure out which one it is.
 
The EFI relay is under the hood with the other relays. But I was wondering how to test it so I don't drop my tank for nothing.
 
I checked for 12 volts at the fuel pump connection under the back seat. Raise the back seat up and pull the carpet back and you will see a cover plate with three screws if you pull the plate you will see the connector.

I don't know offhand which pins in the connector are for the pump but I unplugged the connector and put my volt meter on the two pins and tried to start the truck and found that I had 12 volts going to the pump.

I am at work right now and don't have access to the electrical drawings or I could tell you which ones for sure. I think the two that go to the pump are noticably larger than the rest in that connector.
 
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