Tutorial: Shipping a Sport hood on Greyhound from Texas to California

Hood arrival and unboxing - Success!

The 2001 sport hood arrived at the Hayward Greyhound station last Friday. I picked it up Saturday evening. It took up nearly the entire space of the station! Credit goes to SURF RUNNER who did a magnificently brilliant job packing it up. THANK YOU!!! There was zero damage to the hood. If anyone is looking for a model of how to ship a hood correctly, this is it.

What worked? It was obvious the wooden legs screwed into the hinge points that protected the windshield-facing corner points took a bit of beating so those are necessary for shipping any hood IMO. The swimming pool floater tubes covering all the edges worked very well and the the spray foam held the hood in position firmly within the box. It wasn't loose upon unboxing and in fact, I had to cut and break away much of the spray foam to free the hood from the box. The bubble wrap and mattress bag that covered the hood worked really well to protect it from the spray foam and loose styrofoam inside the box. The loose styrofoam packed densely inside prevented the hood from shaking around inside the box during shipping.

I removed the hood insulation pad underneath, removed the scoop and washed both thoroughly. The front edge of the hood has bug gut acidic stains in the clear coat and paint along with some rock ships with small rust spots and a few other small milk spots that seem to have eaten through the clear coat but not the paint. I used a coarse auto polish with Griot's electrical 6" random orbital buffer to attempt to polish out and remove the bug guts and light scratches but to no avail, unfortunately. Still the hood will look great on the car as is.

I'm actually contemplating a full vehicle repaint since I have a number of small dents, dimples and scratches on the car but I'll have to see how much that'll cost first.

I'll have to figure out how to remove the actual screen from the scoop assembly to do a proper restoration. I think I'll have to grind off the 2 rivets that hold it in place. The inside scoop piece will receive a fresh coat of flat black. The screen has a little bend in the left corner that I'll have to straighten out over a block of wood with some very light hammering. The paint on the screen is also worn down to bare metal around the edges of the perforations so a repaint is in order there too. I'll see about doing a photo / video of the restoration process for anyone else who wants clean up their sport hood scoop.
 
Photos of pick up and unboxing.
 

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Cleaning underside and top and removal of scoop.
 

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It might be cost effective to pay and have the box mailed back? Will be a lot cheaper broken down, especially since you plan on selling more hoods.
 
[MENTION=81106]Cytronus[/MENTION]

That hood looks great, I'm glad to see you got it in good shape. For the nicks on the front of the hood I suggest getting one of the various types of bugshield, if you like the way they look. My original hood before I swapped to my sport hood had a lot of imperfections at the front that were actually very well covered up by the bugshield. I transferred it to my sport hood because I like the look and want to protect the paint as much as I can.

I have a question for you as well. How did you remove the scoop? Is it as simple as taking the 4 nuts off and then pulling the scoop out or are there clips and prying involved? I plan to take mine off to paint it and put in a matching mesh to my "Satoshi" grill as well. Thanks!
 
[MENTION=65101]BrianSD_42[/MENTION]

Thanks for including this in the Tutorial and Info thread.

[MENTION=81106]Cytronus[/MENTION]

Good write-up on receiving the shipment. Thanks for buying the hood from me and taking a chance on having it shipped. David did a great job on suggesting ideas for getting the Sport hood to California intact. His best ideas were the wood pegs to protect the points and the foam pool tube toys on the edges. Both of these suggestions were brilliant. I enjoyed working with David on this and I think that we made a good team. Both of us are very satisfied with the transaction.

[MENTION=32592]HammerHead[/MENTION]

I suggested to David that he keep the custom box (if he has room) and pass it on to someone shipping a Sport hood from California to wherever (if that need arises). The first quote I received for a custom box was from a company in Iowa. The quote for the box was $28 plus shipping of $131! The $131 shipping quote was for an empty broken-down box. This is only $20 less than what what Greyhound charged to ship the fully constructed box with a hood in it! I know... doesn't make sense. I called the manager of the custom box company in Iowa and he confirmed that the shipping price was $131. He basically said that I was an idiot for thinking that was a high price for shipping an empty, flat box. Sort of a bizarro world type of conversation.

JUST A NOTE ON THIS MILLENNIUM SILVER SPORT HOOD FOR CLARIFICATION

Cytronus is very particular about his 4Runner... just like I am about mine. When he discusses some of the issues with the hood (bug juice, small rock chips, slightly bent screen, etc.) please keep in mind that he is a perfectionist (like me) and that he is pointing out things that keep the hood from looking brand-new like it was at the dealership 14 years ago back in 2001. This is the best-looking Sport hood that I have seen for sale in a salvage yard or anywhere... it probably looks better than any Sport hood that I have seen installed on a vehicle currently running. The Thundercloud Gray Sport hood I have for sale is close to the same condition, but still not quite as nice. I just wanted to point this out (and I think David would agree) that this is an outstanding Sport hood with some extremely minor imperfections because it has been on a vehicle for the past 180,000 miles and not a museum. I think that the slightly bent screen occurred during shipping, because it wasn't like that before I packed it.

MillenniumSilverSportHood004.jpg~original


MillenniumSilverSportHood006.jpg~original


MillenniumSilverSportHood005.jpg~original


MillenniumSilverSportHood002.jpg~original


Did I not paint the "UP ARROW" indicator large enough for Greyhound?

149318d1426385667-tutorial-shipping-sport-hood-greyhound-texas-california-img_0032.jpg~original
 
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[MENTION=81106]Cytronus[/MENTION]

That hood looks great, I'm glad to see you got it in good shape. For the nicks on the front of the hood I suggest getting one of the various types of bugshield, if you like the way they look. My original hood before I swapped to my sport hood had a lot of imperfections at the front that were actually very well covered up by the bugshield. I transferred it to my sport hood because I like the look and want to protect the paint as much as I can.

I have a question for you as well. How did you remove the scoop? Is it as simple as taking the 4 nuts off and then pulling the scoop out or are there clips and prying involved? I plan to take mine off to paint it and put in a matching mesh to my "Satoshi" grill as well. Thanks!

Hey Unner, thanks for the advice on the hood shield. I just may pick one up. As for the hood scoop removal, if you can wait a week, I'll have a detailed write up with lots of photos on removal and restoration.
 
Hey Unner, thanks for the advice on the hood shield. I just may pick one up. As for the hood scoop removal, if you can wait a week, I'll have a detailed write up with lots of photos on removal and restoration.

That sounds good. I'll probably try and do mine not this week, but next week.
 
Excellent packing job. One suggestion. Instead of paying 65$ for a custom box, maybe try contacting a shipping/packing company or even a mattress store on letting you have a cardboard box that they ship mattresses in. Then you can customize the exact fit however you need. Just an idea on how you may be able to save some money and time.


2001 SR5 4x4 Premium
2017 SR5 4x4 Premium
 
[MENTION=81106]Cytronus[/MENTION]

Thanks for your very informative post. I especially like your idea about the foam piping and the wood slats bolted on the underside extending past the points.

My plan is to have a lot of redundancy in the construction and packing of this hood box, but there will always be the protection vs weight issue to be under 100lbs. Obviously strong, lightweight materials will work best.

The spray foam that Brent used was fairly hard when it was dry, but it helps keep the hood in the exact angle and position that you intended. The hood will be shrink wrapped and bubble wrapped before anything else, so that should protect it from harder packing materials.

As far as bolting on the two slats we will have to figure that out. There is one large hole towards the point end that could be used with perhaps a rectangular style bolt that fits in the hole. The other hole that could be used is very small, so I'm not sure what to do there.

I've done a lot of measuring and modeling with angles and came up with an optimum box size of 46" x 62" x 25". This is slightly longer and taller than Brent's revised box (the one that made weight). After a lot of measuring in my cargo bay this size should also barely fit inside my 4Runner with the second row down.

You can't find a box with the dimensions we need. I was all set to order a custom box at Web App - Unavailable. There is no minimum. Here was what I had selected:
- 62" x 46" x 24.25" (25" depth is what I wanted, but it exceeds the width blank maximum... 24.25" still works)
- Regular Slotted Container (RSC)
- Double corrugated wall (275#DW)

The price was $27.88 and I was OK with that. I was expecting shipping of $10-$12. Obviously they ship these boxes as flat cardboard. I was all set to order when the shipping options came up. I had a choice of $130 or $131 for shipping! For one damn cardboard box. Anyway, back to the drawing board. I've sent a quote to a custom box company in Flower Mound, Texas Home | The Custom Box Company, so I'm waiting to hear back from them.

As I've done more research on boxes I'm realizing that a Full Overlap Carton (FOL) will provide more protection than a RSC, so we'll go with a FOL.

As far as the hood boxes from the body/collision shops that is a great idea, but it only works as a box within a box, because a flat box will not work on Greyhound because of the 47" maximum width restriction. The hood is almost 45" from the midpoint of the points at the windshield (on a straight line) to the center of the lip at the grille. This leaves 2" for the box, frame, packing materials, wood slats protecting the points, space for extra protection, etc. On Greyhound a flat box will not work. I'm not sure that putting a flat hood box inside our 62" x 46" x 25" box will work or optimize the protection vs weight issue. We want maximum protection with minimum weight to make it under Greyhound's 100lb restriction.

The box will have a wood frame built and inserted on the inside of the box (tightly fit against the walls of the box). I'm thinking about stapling the frame to the box from the outside of the box. I also want to find some metal or plastic corner protectors to put on the inside of the box. Placing them on the four inside bottom corners of the box is easy, but placing them on the four top corners will be a little trickier.

The next step is to take a Sport hood to the Bryan Greyhound station and see how much it weighs on their scale. That will let us know what we have to work with as far as weight to be under 100lbs. Brent was way over the first time, but he thought that the scale at the Long Beach Greyhound station was giving bad weights. All that really matters is what the scale at the Bryan Greyhound station reads, not the actual weight of the hood as stated from the factory. Does anyone have that figure? I am guessing that a Sport hood weighs between 45lbs and 55lbs.

MillenniumSilverSportHood007.jpg~original
pls recheck the height of the hood and Custom Packaging Compnay
 

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