txbonds 97 4runner limited project

She's a looker! What is CBI doing about the front mounts?

Last correspondence said they were designing some brackets.

The bumper was designed around Nathan's 99 runner, so I guess like me they were not aware the 96-98 years apparently have the different frame rails in the front. I'm sure what ever they come up with will be great and will be a part of the bumper going forward for those years.
 
Wish i had the time, know-how and MONEY.
Your runner is looking great. jealous.

Thanks.

Wish I had more time. It's taken me 5 months to get this far and I still have a ton of work left to complete in the project. Won't be surprised if it takes me a year to get it done
 
Thanks.

Wish I had more time. It's taken me 5 months to get this far and I still have a ton of work left to complete in the project. Won't be surprised if it takes me a year to get it done

Please don't say that haha I don't want to be religiously checking your build thread for another 6months :keyboard:
 
Last night I started working on applying the rear seat covers I got off eBay from a seller named iggee

Starting with something like this
p2054785547-5.jpg



And ending as something like this
p2038376827-5.jpg




I'm going to paint the plastic parts on the seat backs with some black fusion paint before covering them but I will update with more pics when those covers go on as well as when the seats are installed.
 
Spoiler alert


My 4runner is out today getting the new Koyo radiator, the new B&M 70264 trans cooler and the new NGK plug wires installed.

I ended up asking them to install the trans cooler with it bypassing the radiator all together, and to put a piece of tube on the radiator trans cooler in/out just to seal it up. Also asked them to mount the cooler using the supplied zip tie mounts but I'm planning to go back after the fact and change it to meal strap mounts.

Next up is my lower ball joints and a quick alignment until I can get the rest of my front end pieces installed, then I'll need a new alignment.

Lastly I got word that my front bumper turn signals and mounting plates were in route, so I'm trying to get the above done so the runner can make the journey up to my Dad's place for some welding (rock sliders and bumper mounts).

Pictures to follow tonight. :)
 
Here are some update pics



B&M 70264 mounted on front of condenser with in/out facing up
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New transmission lines
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New trans hose pass through lined with piece of scrap hose
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Hose connecting in/out on new radiator to prevent coolant leak out
p446941136-5.jpg





New Koyo radiator and new hoses. Old clamps reused.
p101144537-5.jpg

p336487004-5.jpg





New upper radiator hose, new radiator cap and new NGK plug wires
p152383029-5.jpg

p133601057-5.jpg





New diehard platinum G35 battery installed last week
p156729462-5.jpg





Old original stock alternator and new lower radiator hose
p304430849-5.jpg





New to me Mechman high output alternator received today and ready to go in
p247650689-5.jpg
 
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The truck is looking great. Regarding the radiator hoses, I don't think the upper hose is supposed to be that close to the shroud. It's possible that it may have been installed backwards. I've seen this happen before.
 
The truck is looking great. Regarding the radiator hoses, I don't think the upper hose is supposed to be that close to the shroud. It's possible that it may have been installed backwards. I've seen this happen before.

Thanks. Not sure, will it hurt to leave as is or does it need to be changed? I still need to get the coolant flushed and replaced as they didn't do it when putting new radiator in for some reason. It's the last of the fluid change or flushes on my list since getting the truck.
 
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Did the alternator do anything for you? I have never run out of juice on a 3rd gen? Just wondering.

Steve, It's still reading 13.2v while running but I have my suspicion it may be having issue with no way to test. If the new alternator works though it will give plenty of power for dual batts, and everything I want to add.
 
Ordered a whole bunch of junk from toyota parts barn in an effort to try to use the free knuckles they sent me with my prior UBJ order.

1 wheel bearing oil seal 4WD, outer Left
1 wheel bearing oil seal 4WD, outer Right
1 wheel bearing oil seal 4WD, inner Left
1 wheel bearing oil seal 4WD, inner Right
1 wheel bearing snap ring 4WD Left
1 wheel bearing snap ring 4WD Right
1 wheel bearing 4WD Left
1 wheel bearing 4WD Right


Did I miss anything? Ouch, this stuff is pricey for what it is, but it's hard not to use $700 in free knuckles when they are given to you.






Also ordered replacement front and rear sway bar bushings, a fuel filter and a replacement transmission dipstick since mine is bent.
 
Ordered a whole bunch of junk from toyota parts barn in an effort to try to use the free knuckles they sent me with my prior UBJ order.

1 wheel bearing oil seal 4WD, outer Left
1 wheel bearing oil seal 4WD, outer Right
1 wheel bearing oil seal 4WD, inner Left
1 wheel bearing oil seal 4WD, inner Right
1 wheel bearing snap ring 4WD Left
1 wheel bearing snap ring 4WD Right
1 wheel bearing 4WD Left
1 wheel bearing 4WD Right


Did I miss anything? Ouch, this stuff is pricey for what it is, but it's hard not to use $700 in free knuckles when they are given to you.






Also ordered replacement front and rear sway bar bushings, a fuel filter and a replacement transmission dipstick since mine is bent.

You realize that all these parts are PRESS IN. The only way I found to get the bearings in without screwing them up is to use the shell from an old bearing to press them in. It takes a lot of force, so you want at least a 20 ton press.

Get new upper ball joints, they press in too. you missed those.
 
You realize that all these parts are PRESS IN. The only way I found to get the bearings in without screwing them up is to use the shell from an old bearing to press them in. It takes a lot of force, so you want at least a 20 ton press.

Get new upper ball joints, they press in too. you missed those.

The upper ball joints came attached to the knuckles. All I paid for was the UBJ, which is why I keep saying free new knuckles. Make sense.

I was going to just take it all to a shop with the knuckles and have them press them all in.

For starters I'm going to start working on the inner/outer tie rods and the LBJ, and will make the knuckles and UBJ round two.

Was getting ready to order the front sway bar links from you as well that we emailed about earlier.

Thanks Steve.
 
Pick a good shop, the bearings can get wrecked if you don't get them in straight and if you don't press on the outer ring. The casting can also crack.

So find a good shop.
 
Pick a good shop, the bearings can get wrecked if you don't get them in straight and if you don't press on the outer ring. The casting can also crack.

So find a good shop.

Okay, I've decided to postpone the new knuckles for now and just get the inner and outer tie rods and the lower ball joint installed for right now. Didn't realize how much was going to be involved in using the new knuckles. I cancelled the part order for all of the knuckle related items and will plan to make that phase 2 to tackle at a later point.

I want to collect up all of these parts in addition to the few I was missing like the abs rotor and the spacer, and I want to get my hands on some hubs also so I can just take or ship the whole thing at once to a shop to get a complete replacement ready without taking the truck out of commission in the process. That will be a good time to consider some updated cv axels too which will basically make the front end all new at that point.

Planning to start on the LBJ and tie rods later this week. Thanks Steve for answering all of my questions via email. Looking forward to getting those front HD sway bar links.
 
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The only reason we have done all that knuckle work is going to manual hubs. See if you can track down a manual hub Tacoma (junk yard) and convert to manual hubs when you do the bearings.

Front spindles and axles from a 1995-2004 base Tacoma. Lockout hubs too.
 
The only reason we have done all that knuckle work is going to manual hubs. See if you can track down a manual hub Tacoma (junk yard) and convert to manual hubs when you do the bearings.

Front spindles and axles from a 1995-2004 base Tacoma. Lockout hubs too.

Thanks.

I thought about that but How would those work with the limited push button 4 wheel drive?
 
Just fine. Lock the hubs and it is the same as you have now. Unlock them and the front does not turn all the time.

No negative side effects, you will also go from semi-float front end to full float. Which means right now, the axle and the bearing together support your truck, you can not drive it without the axle in the bearing. Full float you can drive with the axle out, they do not support the weight of the truck only turn the tire.


The real benefit it is going to full float.
 

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