Whitson Metalworks
New member
greg, try warming the cans in the sun. i find that when they're pretty warm they spray totally different and smooth compared to room temp or so.
txbonds 97 4runner limited project
- Thread starter txbonds
- Start date
txbonds
Senior Member
Josh, these were sitting in the 94 degree heat and sun for a while so I think they were warm. I shook them for about 2 mins just like with krylon. But when spraying they came outin a tight round stream like a last from a water hose and they were cutting in and out so I got splotches and super thick spots rather than even coverage.
As of right now its still not completely dry either and is tacky to the touch.
I went out and bought a bunch of the krylon rust tough red primer and semi flat black at napa. That's where I've been getting it. It sprays in a wide fan and very even. It seems like it is thinned down a little too so you get nice even coats without globs and splotches. About as close to a pro spray gun as I've found.
I've painted my sliders and seat brackets with the krylon and they turned out flawless and professional looking. We're dry to handle after about 10 mins and completely cured by next day.
I've painted two things with rustoleum and both were a train wreck. My hood was rustoleum flat black in a can and it turned out horrible and needs to be redone and now the roof rack was rustoleum rattle can and it was as described. If I could get it off without a ton of work I would do so and start over but instead I have to work with what I've got if its actually dry by tomorrow. My hood will get stripped and redone at some point too but less critical than getting good paint on the raw metal of the roof rack.
I have it sitting in the garage with the dehumidifier running on 45 percent and blowing dry air on it for the night. We will see how it is in the morning but I'm done, done, done with rustoleum.
Others results may vary and this is just my experience and opinion by the way.
smkd13
New member
Hey I use VHT Matte Black Roll Bar and Chassis for my sliders as honestly I am in love withy he stuff. Sprays on nice. Even from start to finish. It is spendy but it is pretty good honestly. For primer I normally use self-etching rustoleum primer. Did my sliders with it and it worked fine for me. I will probably try out krylon as long as they make a self etching primer.
txbonds
Senior Member
Hum. This wasn't self etching primer. Was their regular primer for clean metal it said. Don't know about the krylon. What is the benefit of the self etching? Thanks.
Whitson Metalworks
New member
Shoot man, bummer about the rustoleum, that's my go-to paint lol. Good idea with the dehumidifier, humidity has ruined more than a few of my projects over the years.
txbonds
Senior Member
I'm sure it's an ID10T error on my part but I swear I'm not trying it again as it just hasn't worked well for me yet. LOL
Not sure what I going to use when I repaint my hood but ill find something.
txbonds
Senior Member
Some shots of what I was getting with the rustoleum new metal white primer stuff:
The results of an unexpected spurt of paint coming out and the paint coming out in a tight stream like a water hose.
If you look close you can see the round little splurts visible in this section of paint.
And this morning, I decided I'm recoating the whole thing in Krylon Rust Tough, but for starters I painted the opposite side that didn't get paint yesterday to just get something on all the raw metal. Probably not necessary, but will go back over the the other side as well before painting the semi flat black.
The results of an unexpected spurt of paint coming out and the paint coming out in a tight stream like a water hose.
If you look close you can see the round little splurts visible in this section of paint.
And this morning, I decided I'm recoating the whole thing in Krylon Rust Tough, but for starters I painted the opposite side that didn't get paint yesterday to just get something on all the raw metal. Probably not necessary, but will go back over the the other side as well before painting the semi flat black.
smkd13
New member
Self etching fills in cracks and gaps better and I found it goes on better. It goes on a little thicker I guess.
Here is how my sliders came out 2 coats of primer
txbonds
Senior Member
Self etching fills in cracks and gaps better and I found it goes on better. It goes on a little thicker I guess.
Here is how my sliders came out 2 coats of primer
Okay I can't really see anything specific there. Any close ups of the paint or is there anything specific to see? Sorry just not sure what I'm looking for, not trying to sound like a jerk. LOL.
smkd13
New member
Okay I can't really see anything specific there. Any close ups of the paint or is there anything specific to see? Sorry just not sure what I'm looking for, not trying to sound like a jerk. LOL.
even spray and it just fills in better and has a good coverage. I just did two coats and that was it. I think it goes on a little thicker. the picture cant really show you honestly but you can see how it goes on pretty even.
txbonds
Senior Member
Almost ready for the rear bumper that shows up tomorrow.
I still need to install the new pan hard bar and the new shocks but I need a drill bit for the shock mount holes and don't want to mount pan hard near until shocks are in to keep access more open.
Getting the old shocks off was a b i t c h. . I had to wedge a deep socket on the top nut and use channel locks to turn the shock boot/shield to get the off.
It is so much higher it is crazy. I don't have any weight in the rear right now though. Once bumper and spare tire go on it should start to settle down a bit. There is no way it will fit in the garage though with lift and roof rack and I'm already thinking I might have to air down tires and weight truck down to clear the opening. LOL
I still need to install the new pan hard bar and the new shocks but I need a drill bit for the shock mount holes and don't want to mount pan hard near until shocks are in to keep access more open.
Getting the old shocks off was a b i t c h. . I had to wedge a deep socket on the top nut and use channel locks to turn the shock boot/shield to get the off.
It is so much higher it is crazy. I don't have any weight in the rear right now though. Once bumper and spare tire go on it should start to settle down a bit. There is no way it will fit in the garage though with lift and roof rack and I'm already thinking I might have to air down tires and weight truck down to clear the opening. LOL
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BrianSD_42
New member
Its coming along great!
txbonds
Senior Member
Taking a break but got the CBI base bumper temporarily mounted. I still need to drill holes and put in remaining bolts, but it looks pretty good I think. The fit was so tight I had to give the frame a few taps with e 3lb sledge to fit the bumper mount rails over the frame. Not easy getting this on but we managed with a little help from my wife and a stack of tires and wood for support.
As it arrived
After removing all the other parts and pieces, you get down to the bumper
Tire swing and can carrier pieces
Working to get it on there
And mounted
As it arrived
After removing all the other parts and pieces, you get down to the bumper
Tire swing and can carrier pieces
Working to get it on there
And mounted
txbonds
Senior Member
Unfortunately I think ill have to take it off as much as I don't want to due to how hard it was to mount but I need to sand the fender flare down under the side tubes and I need to paint the fenders if I'm going to. Still undecided on that though as the tan fenders are growing on me.
txbonds
Senior Member
Got tired and called it a night last night once the bumper was hanging on temp mounts. Tonight I need to drill for additional mounts but wanted some opinion on this.
The front tubes just barely push against the fenders. Anybody know a way to safely widen the gap without taking bumper off? I was thinking a sanding belt maybe but don't want to hurt the powder coat on the bumper or do more damage than necessary. As you can see I already have tan paint marks in the powder coat from install fitting.
Bumper fits but I don't want it putting constant pressure on fender flare. Contact point is about the size of a penny. Thanks for any tips.
The front tubes just barely push against the fenders. Anybody know a way to safely widen the gap without taking bumper off? I was thinking a sanding belt maybe but don't want to hurt the powder coat on the bumper or do more damage than necessary. As you can see I already have tan paint marks in the powder coat from install fitting.
Bumper fits but I don't want it putting constant pressure on fender flare. Contact point is about the size of a penny. Thanks for any tips.
Whitson Metalworks
New member
i dont see any way around having to pull it back off. after that you can either put a, for lack of better word-dent, in the tube or sand down a recess into the flare, then touch up the paint. it sucks, when i built my bumpers they were each on and off like 10 times.
txbonds
Senior Member
Yeah I'm afraid you are right. I don't mind doing it but the size and weight mean it is too heavy for my wife to help. I'm thinking an engine lift or something might not be a bad idea to have around since ill have the same issue with the front bumper, especially with winch in it.
Whitson Metalworks
New member
i used my big floor jack and a few 2x4's that spanned the width of the bumper, kinda tippy but easy to hold steady with one hand and jack up/down with the other.
