Limbwalker
New member
that is one hell of a nice build you have there.
txbonds 97 4runner limited project
- Thread starter txbonds
- Start date
txbonds
Senior Member
Thanks. I bought covers off ebay. I think I mention the sellers name somewhere back in my post.
Thank you.
Didn't do much this weekend but did do a few things.
New Toyota wiper blades all around, and a new arm in the rear since the spring on the old one was shot
Got the rear view mirror and sunroof control panels mounted after getting the alarm remote antenna mounted inside the front windshield
Started working on how to mount my Raingler cargo barrier. I've got some ideas but need to get some hardware for the upper and middle mounts as there aren't many options on where to attach brackets on the roof line.
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Christiantdoug
New member
Will this gorgeous 4runner ever see dirt ??
txbonds
Senior Member
Don't remember. I bought from online parts place like Camelback Toyota.
You are welcome to my old one if you have a good spring to put in it. It was in decent shape. Just let me know.
txbonds
Senior Member
Thanks and that is the plan. I just don't plan to take it to play before I'm finished with my initial rebuild plans. I'm getting closer day by day, just can't work on it full time.
sschaefer3
New member
Where did you get this seat mounting plate? It looks pretty slick.
Is it a Corbeau mount?
Is it a Corbeau mount?
txbonds
Senior Member
Where did you get this seat mounting plate? It looks pretty slick.
Is it a Corbeau mount?
Thanks Steve. It's actually cobbled together from three sources.
I used Corbeau dual arm sliders and the tabs/feet are removed from the factory seat bottoms by drilling out the rivets that hold them in place.
Then the Large H shaped plates came from Planted Technology. They didn't have a premade option for 3rd gen 4runner and agreed to sell me the plate with seat belt tab in raw steel form. I should note that they offered to make some if they had a donor vehicle but they are located in Colorado or thereabouts and I'm in FL.
With a little effort, some bolts and only one hole drilled for the seat belt bracket they work pretty well. I decided not to weld them so I had some flexibility when it came time to bolt it in place as I found the feet tabs can require some play to bolt to the floor more easily.
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txbonds
Senior Member
Thank you
Changed up my game plan on where I'm planning to attempt mounting the Uniden Bearcat 880 CB. This space under the ashtray used to be full I thought. Then I realized it was the old stereo amp and antenna relay. Once removed it looks promising with a little work
Space in trim panel that would be cut to fit
Here is approximately where it would sit.
Looks like I will need to heat and press the bottom corner of the AC vent you can see above in white. This will allow the radio to go in just a tad bit further. I have an alternate plan for the other half of the double din opening as a place to mount light switches.
txbonds
Senior Member
Getting ready for electrical work, I've started collecting some parts. picked up these initial items so far:
BLUESEA 12 Position combo ground/fuse block for adding accessories wiring and CONTURA 3 position switch panel - to fit into dash on left side of steering wheel in place of some of the factory switch spots. Will hold switches for front bumper lights and winch power. Planning to use the custom laser etched carling switches.
WARN power interrupt kit to kill winch power when not in use
CRIMPER - picked up a 16 ton hydraulic crimper like this one
2 Gauge Cable - picked up a bunch of cable to do new battery/engine wiring, dual battery setup and winch install. Cable is like that in the link.
100' ft 2 AWG Excelene Welding Battery Cable 50' Red 50' Black USA New | eBay
Am also working on a solution to put 6 more switches into dash to control roof lighting, compressor, etc. Just hopeful the audio can tie into the same block without any noise issues but we will see. lots of fun figuring out all the wiring.
BLUESEA 12 Position combo ground/fuse block for adding accessories wiring and CONTURA 3 position switch panel - to fit into dash on left side of steering wheel in place of some of the factory switch spots. Will hold switches for front bumper lights and winch power. Planning to use the custom laser etched carling switches.
WARN power interrupt kit to kill winch power when not in use
CRIMPER - picked up a 16 ton hydraulic crimper like this one
2 Gauge Cable - picked up a bunch of cable to do new battery/engine wiring, dual battery setup and winch install. Cable is like that in the link.
100' ft 2 AWG Excelene Welding Battery Cable 50' Red 50' Black USA New | eBay
Am also working on a solution to put 6 more switches into dash to control roof lighting, compressor, etc. Just hopeful the audio can tie into the same block without any noise issues but we will see. lots of fun figuring out all the wiring.
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Millerad1651
New member
Check this out....I think he found a pretty nice solution! Its about halfway down the page...
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/67705-blcktpgsrs-97-transformation-46.html
txbonds
Senior Member
Thanks man.
Holy cow at the switches. LOL
I'm too tall to go that route. I've inly got an inch or two clearance above my head so I wouldn't be able to see out with something like that.
Also, I'm not doing quite that many switches. I'm thinking 6 in a DIN sized plate in dash and 3 to left of steering wheel will get it.
That would allow switches as follows:
Fog lights
Driving lights
Winch power
Roof lights forward
Roof lights right
Roof lights left
Roof lights rear
Compressor power
Extra - for inventor, fridge, etc.
Here is the style switch I'm going to use. I'm starting out with 3 of them for winch power, fog lights and off road lights and they will go in the panel on left of steering wheel.
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CShaver1025
New member
Man, the work you have done to this 4r is impressive. I couldnt stop reading this thread. Congrats on the badass truck. Maybe one day I'll hit the lottery and be able to go at mine like you have.
txbonds
Senior Member
Working on front end parts this weekend.
Preparing for surgery
Removing new toyota upper ball joints that came on the free knuckles
You'll notice Toyota installs the ball joint before painting the knuckle as the wire and clip have black paint on them still. The little black debris everywhere is tiny paint flecks.
Grease scooped out and put into boot to try to salvage it since it's a new and unused ball joint
Pressing out with two jaw 7 ton sears puller, 36mm impact socket and an old bolt. The socket presses on the ball joint base socket rather than the ball joint bolt itself. The small bolt in the socket is so there is something to push on so the puller thread doesn't just go into the socket. The bolt doesn't contact the ball joint stud inside.
Couldn't get enough leverage to turn the puller thread so I had to move the knuckle to the vise to hold it
Took a little effort and some moving the puller around to get it pressed out but finally got it without damage to the ball joint.
Tried to reverse the process to push the light racing adapter back into place. Got it part way but had to resort to my 20 ton press to finish. Probably more to do with the fact that it's hard to keep the alignment straight on the 7 ton puller than anything to do with power
Moved to the larger press but couldn't get pics. Was a one man show and it was all I could do to hold the knuckle up and in place and do the pressing all at the same time. Really need another set of hands for this because the shape of the knuckle makes it difficult to get and hold in position.
Got the light racing adapter pressed in but scraped the inside edge pretty bad when it popped into place as it hit the plate on the press that I was using as the backing to press against. This happened after it passed through the knuckle so there is no damage to the knuckle itself. Hard to explain but needless to say there is very little space to work with here. Will get this cleaned up a little. Given the location it shouldn't hurt anything in use.
Light racing ball joint adapter pressed into place.
Yes, this means I decided to use the new light racing arms I got from [MENTION=88391]NateMob[/MENTION] He had around 10k miles in them and the bushings failed (old style). Manufacturer replaced them under warranty with brand new set of arms with the newer style bushings. Think they will work well and only wish they included a grease zerk for maintenance.
Preparing for surgery
Removing new toyota upper ball joints that came on the free knuckles
You'll notice Toyota installs the ball joint before painting the knuckle as the wire and clip have black paint on them still. The little black debris everywhere is tiny paint flecks.
Grease scooped out and put into boot to try to salvage it since it's a new and unused ball joint
Pressing out with two jaw 7 ton sears puller, 36mm impact socket and an old bolt. The socket presses on the ball joint base socket rather than the ball joint bolt itself. The small bolt in the socket is so there is something to push on so the puller thread doesn't just go into the socket. The bolt doesn't contact the ball joint stud inside.
Couldn't get enough leverage to turn the puller thread so I had to move the knuckle to the vise to hold it
Took a little effort and some moving the puller around to get it pressed out but finally got it without damage to the ball joint.
Tried to reverse the process to push the light racing adapter back into place. Got it part way but had to resort to my 20 ton press to finish. Probably more to do with the fact that it's hard to keep the alignment straight on the 7 ton puller than anything to do with power
Moved to the larger press but couldn't get pics. Was a one man show and it was all I could do to hold the knuckle up and in place and do the pressing all at the same time. Really need another set of hands for this because the shape of the knuckle makes it difficult to get and hold in position.
Got the light racing adapter pressed in but scraped the inside edge pretty bad when it popped into place as it hit the plate on the press that I was using as the backing to press against. This happened after it passed through the knuckle so there is no damage to the knuckle itself. Hard to explain but needless to say there is very little space to work with here. Will get this cleaned up a little. Given the location it shouldn't hurt anything in use.
Light racing ball joint adapter pressed into place.
Yes, this means I decided to use the new light racing arms I got from [MENTION=88391]NateMob[/MENTION] He had around 10k miles in them and the bushings failed (old style). Manufacturer replaced them under warranty with brand new set of arms with the newer style bushings. Think they will work well and only wish they included a grease zerk for maintenance.
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txbonds
Senior Member
Got the rash cleaned up and the snap ring put in place but man was the snap ring a bear. This whole side has been a pain in the arse.
Other side pushed the ball joint out easily and the light racing adapter went in much easier as I used a little bit of axle grease on it before pushing in with the sears 7 ton puller. Cleaned up the grease and the snap ring went on like a breeze also
Unfortunately it has taken me all day just to get this process done. LOL
One time saving trick:
To get the large snap ring on by yourself, use a set of vise grips and hold down one end. Then work your way around with a large pair of needle nose pliers. I used right angle needle nose and it did the trick. Wasted an hour trying to get the first one on before coming up with this approach. Second one took 3 minutes.
Other side pushed the ball joint out easily and the light racing adapter went in much easier as I used a little bit of axle grease on it before pushing in with the sears 7 ton puller. Cleaned up the grease and the snap ring went on like a breeze also
Unfortunately it has taken me all day just to get this process done. LOL
One time saving trick:
To get the large snap ring on by yourself, use a set of vise grips and hold down one end. Then work your way around with a large pair of needle nose pliers. I used right angle needle nose and it did the trick. Wasted an hour trying to get the first one on before coming up with this approach. Second one took 3 minutes.
txbonds
Senior Member
Another task where I could use a better way and another set of hands. Went to tighten the hub/spindle nut down to 203 ft lbs and I'm not sure I can get it there without getting someone to help me hold it.
Started off by putting 3 lug nuts on
Set the torque wrench to 203
Slid the lug nuts down overlapping the leg to my 20 ton press
Put the special tool onto the torque wrench and inserted the pins into the hub nut.
While I'm probably getting close to the 203 ft lbs, I can't get enough pull pressure on the torque wrench while also applying enough downward pressure onto the knuckle to keep it from rotating up and off the press leg. Will have to pause until I can get a helper later.
Started off by putting 3 lug nuts on
Set the torque wrench to 203
Slid the lug nuts down overlapping the leg to my 20 ton press
Put the special tool onto the torque wrench and inserted the pins into the hub nut.
While I'm probably getting close to the 203 ft lbs, I can't get enough pull pressure on the torque wrench while also applying enough downward pressure onto the knuckle to keep it from rotating up and off the press leg. Will have to pause until I can get a helper later.
sschaefer3
New member
Bolt the spindle into a tire/wheel and have someone hold the tire and then you crank it down. You need to get to to 203.
txbonds
Senior Member
Good idea. I'll try with the spare tire. Thanks Steve.
