txbonds 97 4runner limited project

Tried again today by bolting the hub into the spare tire wheel. Probably can't see much but it went much further on the threads before the torque wrench clicked at 203 ft lbs. ended up having to get my wife to press on the top of the torque wrench and eventually stand on it. We bent two of the roll pins in the special socket tool in the process but this first one is on. Just need to stake it in place before continuing on

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Now that it's tight though I can't help but wonder if I missed a spacer because the abs ring isn't centered in the abs hole anymore.

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And on a side note I picked up a battery charger today so I can keep the sears platinum AGM battery topped off while the runner is sitting for extended periods of time. Went with a Schumacher SSC-1500A and am shocked at how light it is. The last time I've needed a battery charger for anything they weighed as much as the battery itself but this thing is fan cooled, weighs about a pound and is pretty neat. Has modes for standard lead, as well as AGM and Gel batteries. Just hope it lasts.
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http://www.batterychargers.com/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductName=94026807ACP
 
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The ABS ring is the spacer. So no you did not miss anything. I am wondering why you bent the tool and also why the ring is off centered.

If I have time today I will pull and abs sensor in mine and look and see where the ring is.

Steve
 
sschaefer3 said:
The ABS ring is the spacer. So no you did not miss anything. I am wondering why you bent the tool and also why the ring is off centered.

If I have time today I will pull and abs sensor in mine and look and see where the ring is.

Steve
Click to expand...

Thanks Steve. That would be helpful.


Started on second one.
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I did figure out why I was,having such a hard time getting these down to 203 ft lbs. apparently when I pushed my hub through the bearing it didn't quite push all the way through this side of the bearing so the abs ring is having to seat the outer edge of the bearing just slightly on the way down.

Have the other one in now too but can't get the torque wrench to click at 203 as the tool has unfortunately slipped out enough times to affect its ability to grip any longer. I can get it to click at 180 and think it would click at 203 also but the tool slips out before I can get that much pressure on it. Not sure if I should order a new hub nut and start over or just call it good.



Here you can see edge of bearing as I mentioned
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Here you can see where the tool holes are chewed up
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.
 
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sschaefer3 said:
We put this together 11 years ago. Never had any issues with it what so ever.

Yours is fine.

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Awesome thanks Steve.


Do you think its worth ordering a new hub nut for the side that the holes have been messed up? I've compared and it looks identical and the assembly feels just as tight as the first one that I was able to get to 203 ft lbs. at this point I can get this one off but can't get it any tighter without the wrench slipping out of the holes.
 
Probably the easiest mod I've done so far. I installed a grab handle on the drivers side that I picked up used here on the forum.


You can sort of see little circles in the material. I used an awl and poked a small hole through one and it was directly over the existing acre holes.
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With the two screws installed
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With screw covers installed
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Put up the other three grab handles and the center dome light tonight as well. Baby steps................ :)
 
I would like to add the extra grab handle but I'm afraid I'll hit my head on it. I'm 6'1" how's the clearance?
 
Weird. I'm just shy of 6' 1" and haven't hit my head on it yet but it's only been there for one day. I like it though as it helps getting in sometimes and provides a place to put hand when resting elbow on window ledge as well.





So I drove the truck a little this morning and have officially managed to put 380 miles on it since buying it 9 months ago. LOL

Also, got the P0130 & P0133 codes for second time in two weeks so I just ordered a new Denso oxygen sensor to see if that corrects it. I noticed a drop in MPG and a little change in acceleration and idle RPMs as well. Will see but it looks to have corrected the issue for others with same issues and codes.

Ordered this one for the front sensor:
Denso 234-4162 Oxygen Sensor : Amazon.com : Automotive
 
SCRunner12 said:
I agree with TX, as I'm 6' 1" and I've never hit my head on it. I've had mine installed for a year also.
Click to expand...

You guys must not be bald! I swear, now that I have no hair to protect my head, I seem to hit everything. . .

Great build man, really like the amount of work you've put into the rig.
Question, how's the sound deadening work out for you, was it worth it?
 
MyHigh said:
You guys must not be bald! I swear, now that I have no hair to protect my head, I seem to hit everything. . .

Great build man, really like the amount of work you've put into the rig.
Question, how's the sound deadening work out for you, was it worth it?
Click to expand...

I think its made a difference but no way to compare as I went from stock tires to goodyear MTRs at same time as sound deadening. Also I still don't have carpet over wheel wells nor the 5 doors deadened yet so it should get even quieter.
 
coues7 said:
Absolutely Beautiful Build
Click to expand...

Thanks bro.





Anyone have any suggestions on where to check for probable leaks? I think this is too high to be the oil pan and it is a very slow leak because the oil level hasn't changed by any measurable amount on the dip stick.

It's hard to see but the wet area is the little tab poking out below the pulleys
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Some Specifics
> 187k on ODO
> 20k till timing belt/water pump due according to records
> Had upper seals replaced when purchased 400 miles ago due to leaks around valve covers. Appears clean still up top.
> had oil and filter changed with all other fluids 400 miles ago. Shop used synthetic all around.
> bracket on alternator looks wet also but I attribute that to the upper leak that was supposedly fixed with seals mentioned above.



Any guesses or bets on what is leaking? It's hard to get in there to see so I'm not sure where to start other than try cleaning and see where it's coming from. Given the impending TB/WP service due, the total miles and the cost of fixing something like a oil pan seal I fear this could be the item that says its cheaper to swap engines than to fix the leak. Hope I'm wrong though.
 
How much have you driven it since you noticed the leak? Could be the front main seal, but that seems really high for that. What about the cam seals? Were those done with the TB?
 
Thanks guys. I don't know regarding the cam seals as I've only owned it for 400 miles even though I've had it for 8+ months. It's been in the garage getting rebuilt and restored slowly all of that time. Hadn't gotten to the motor really other than an initial service and a few upper end seals.

My plan was to finish everything else and then look into any needed motor and driveline refreshes as phase 2. That said I guess if the motor is running ok other than the leak it would make sense to just focus on fixing the leak.





On a whole other note I stopped by a locksmith at lunch and finally figured out why the truck came with two different keys. The prior owner had the ignition replaced according to one of the receipts provided and it looks like the place installed a 2nd gen ignition which is a slightly different key and can't be changed to match the 3rd gen doors.
 
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