txbonds 97 4runner limited project

[txbonds]

I didn't pre drain my fluid so I had to wait for it to bleed out after taking the upper line loose. I used the line/flare wrench to break it free and a regular combo wrench to remove them. Couldn't get my hand in there to remove by hand easily.

Waiting for fluid to drain

I had bolt out so I put it in backwards just to hold the rack until ready to drop it

Old rack out finally. Man that was a beoch to get out without it falling on my face. The steering link had sand and mud combined with some rust and it wouldn't pull free. I had to use a hammer and large chisel to get them apart. Sheesh. Will be spraying and cleaning that link out before I put the new one in.

Now I have to get my other jamb nut off the old rack, take a few measurements to get the new one centered properly and then put it back up. I'm going to wait to put the outer tie rods on after I've gotten the work done replacing the cv axle dust shields and the passenger side axle seal that I put in backwards. Then we will get some fluid run through it and go get it aligned and bada-bing.

 

[txbonds]

Just returned my core for a credit.


Little club music and a beer to keep me moving along

Took a few comparison shots before returning the core. They both have the same model number in the body of the rack. Looks like the old one had a B below the number though.

Fluid was clean but I had it changed 400 miles back

But the bushings were shot and falling apart and crumbling

Time to swap in the new bushings on the reman rack

 

[txbonds]

Noticed the new rack has Toyoda on the side.

Got the reman bushings out

The smaller bushing the remanufacture used was total crap. No wonder people have mentioned these wearing out in just a few miles. It started to crumble as soon as I started messing with it. The larger bushing was in very good shape and probably would have been fine for a rubber bushing, but since I'm switching to poly on one, I might as well do all.

To get the smaller bushing out, I got the idea from another thread, but I used a long bolt, a 36mm socket, a couple of washers and a nut. Insert one washer on the bolt and poke it through the bushing. Then insert the socket over the bolt with the cupped side towards the bushing. Insert a washer and nut and start tightening and it will pull the bushing out and into the socket.

On the larger one, I didn't have a long enough bolt, but what I did to get it out is to take a razor blade and trim the rubber flange off on one side. When you look, one side has a plastic/hard flange, and the other is rubber. Once the rubber was removed, I was able to take a #1 or #2 screw driver and poke through on the trimmed side, and then using a hammer I was able to drive the screw driver and bushing out. Pretty simple actually and came out easier than the small one this way.



Just for future reference, I found another number on the reman rack, so figured I'd post it as well.

 

[txbonds]

New bushings in. I simply pressed the two halves in with my hands and then used a rubber mallet to tap the sleeve through the bushings. Very easy.

Reused the rubber boot from old rack on new rack where it connects to steering linkage. You can also see inside the new rack here as well.

Connecting the fluid lines back up to the new rack is one of the hardest tasks I've done on this build so far. I like to have never gotten these two lines threaded on and back in place. Very hard to maneuver down there and I couldn't really reach these very well.

Got the steering linkage reattached and the bolt torqued into place. Also got the long main bolt put back in by lifting the front differential. Torqued that 22mm nut down, and moved on to the 19mm center bolt, and then slipped the new bushing on the rack body and bolted the clamp over it torquing all of the bolts /nuts down to spec.

The rack is nice and snug with no play. I can only imagine it will make a marked improvement in handling.
Over all I struggled with this project from start to finish. The position working under the truck, the limited height from the ground, and the limited space around the steering rack made it very difficult for me. For example, it's hard as heck to hit 141 ft lbs on a bolt when you are laying on your back and only have about 1.5' of movement space. Anyway, it's mounted and next up barring any issues is to get the axle seals corrected, the. I'll install tie rods and get some power steering fluid in there.

 

[BigRogers]

Outstanding Re-birth of a 4runner! What a build thread!

 

[txbonds]

Outstanding Re-birth of a 4runner! What a build thread!

Thanks. Wish I had more time to work on it though.


On a separate note I have a new set of heavy duty rear lower control arms inbound from Steve at Sonoran Steel. Can wait to see how they look as all of his other products have been awesome so far. Thanks Steve!

 

[txbonds]

Started on pulling front end back apart to replace the passenger side CV/Diff seal because I put it in backwards. Man what a pain it is to get this all back apart. LOL


Even after reading tons of articles, I've spent 2 hours just getting the manual hub off, mainly the snap ring on the axle and the cone washers on the hub base. Sheesh!



So for future reference, here is my new best friend. A 2.4mm flat blade screw driver

The 2.0mm was too small and not up to the task

Thinking that in the long run, it would help prevent corrosion and rust, I applied some light grease to each cone washer before installing them. Well, it meant they didn't want to come out with normal methods because the grease was helping hold them in. Using the 2.4mm screw driver, place the tip into the split in the washer and hammer it in close to the stud and it will eventually pop the cone washer up and out.

So after 2 hours this morning, this is as far as I've gotten. :wow2:

Now I'm trying to decide if it would be best to remove the top nut on the light racing ball joint or to remove the 4 bolts on the lower ball joint. Not sure which one will give me enough movement to get the CV axle to come out with the least amount of work. I don't want to have to unbolt the brake components and what not if I can avoid it. I'm thinking I'll start with the light racing nut first as it would be the easiest to remove and replace. Will see. :frog:

 

[sschaefer3]

No No No No !!!

Don't use a screw driver, just get a small brass hammer and tap on the side of the hub body right by the cone washer it will shoot right off, literally fly off !!!

Brass hammer, tap on side.

 

[sschaefer3]

Just un-do the 4 lower bolts and push the entire assemble to the side. You can easily pull the axle out.

You don't have to undo anything at the top.

 

[txbonds]

No No No No !!!

Don't use a screw driver, just get a small brass hammer and tap on the side of the hub body right by the cone washer it will shoot right off, literally fly off !!!

Brass hammer, tap on side.

I tried it but the grease wouldn't let them pop out I think. I'm cleaning most of that grease off before putting them back in.

Just un-do the 4 lower bolts and push the entire assemble to the side. You can easily pull the axle out.

You don't have to undo anything at the top.

That's what I'm doing. Realized right away the top wouldn't do it. Just took 4 bolts out and about to pull cv out next.


Thanks as always.

 

[txbonds]

Four LBJ bolts removed and knuckle swung to side

Prior incorrectly installed seal removed and getting ready to tap the new one back in

New seal tapped into place in the correct direction this time (cup side facing inward)

Went ahead and replaced my outer cv axle dust shield while I had it apart since the other one was so mangled. Much nicer fit now

And this shot is just for [MENTION=1795]sschaefer3[/MENTION] as I remembered to put the old bump stops back on per your reminder post earlier in the thread. :thumb:

In the home stretch on this side now as I'm just buttoning up the end of the axle and the manual hubs, and the tire can go back on and I'm on to the drivers side to replace the dust shield, abs sensor wire and bump stops. :loco:

 

[txbonds]

Not many pictures, but got the drivers side done as well. On this side, I replaced the outer cv axle dust shield with a new one as this one was mangled during shipping, replaced the ABS wire with a used one as mine was ripped in half, and I installed the old bump stops from my prior LCA's.


Here is the old dust shield I had tried to straighten

Just as an FYI for future reference, the ABS lines plug in just inside the engine compartment. You can see it down on the frame. Also noticed some corrosion on this frame area due to a leaky battery apparently. I'll need to get this cleaned up and coated with something since I've put in a new battery when I got the truck.

Next up is the new outer tie rods and the new sway bar bushings and links. I ordered a set of the heavy duty links from Sonoran Steel, so these should not bend like my factory ones did with the new lift. Will post pictures later tonight as I accomplish some more.






.

 

[txbonds]

Sway bar prep

Had to cut the old bolt as the head stripped and it was rusted in place

New heavy duty links and bushings from Sonoran Steel in place

New Toyota rubber sway bar bushings in place

View into each wheel well. Everything done except the outer tie rods, which are on list for tomorrow.

 

[IBallEngineer]

Its good you take the time to get good pictures and document for the benefit of the group! Thanks for that.

For the record, the brass hammer has NEVER not popped those cones out for me. It's physics, round cone, UN-round hole(when you hit it hard).

Can be hard on the hub though.

 

[txbonds]

Just for all of you that theorized this would never leave the garage or see any dirt, I got a chance to test out the new manual hubs and front end a little

No major wheeling just doing some road clearing but did get to confirm everything seems to be working well so now I need to go get it aligned and move on to doing electrical. :reddance:

 

[BrianSD_42]

I did not realize Steve was selling heavy duty front sway links.

Did you order them off the website or custom?

 

[txbonds]

I did not realize Steve was selling heavy duty front sway links.

Did you order them off the website or custom?

Here you go

http://www.sonoransteel.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1_11&products_id=92

 

[BrianSD_42]

Yep. I believe those are the ones Steve told me about a few years ago. He didn't always sell them directly.

I believe they are 2WD 2004/6 Tundra. It would be the heavier link, I assume the more expensive one.

The truck looks great.

 

[JohnBill53]

:rockon:

 

[txbonds]

Couple more from the front (someone asked earlier in my thread for front pics of bumper)