txbonds 97 4runner limited project

Mine is the stock sensor and I have 220k miles :) -- Should probably replace it anyway.

I'm assuming mine has 188k miles on it but it was a toyota sensor so prob the stock original. No harm in changing other than to the wallet.
 
Call me crazy but the truck drives like it has a new engine in it after changing the forward O2 sensor last night.

I'm running 89 octane gas which helped a little but the improvement from the O2 sensor is amazing. I really didn't realize how much power I had lost.

The symptoms other than the P0133 code have been sluggish power with lots of engine roaring sound under initial acceleration, lots of pinging and clanking from the engine under acceleration and a loss of pep.

Now, it is running much smoother with less complaints from the engine. The engine roar seems to subside after only a second when I initially accelerate from a stop and I'm not hearing the same pings and clanks.

It's still a small v6 but it really seems like I added 50 horsepower over night. Amazing.



I'm going to keep running the 89 octane in it as it seems to like it. Anything else I need to check that could have similar effects and improvement results with respect to engine performance that I haven't already done earlier in this thread?
 
Finally got a chance to turn the new upper radiator hose around that the mechanic put on backwards when installing the new koyo radiator

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Can I get a Whoop, Whoop! :)

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Need to paint a section of new fence and had bought a high end Wagner 890 sprayer. Started thinking rather than spending $200 on just a sprayer I should get a nice air source and buy a $40 latex capable air sprayer. :)


So who makes the best combo tool kit to use in my garage on the 4runner that includes best tools for the dollar?
 
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Thanks Steve. Will look into that one.

I managed to get the rear control arms on but but didn't get the rear sway links and bushings or your rear body mounts installed yet. However the rear lower and upper control arms alone helped to improve the ride a little more and smoothed out just a little of the squirrelly rear end feel. The bushings in the old ones must have been useless. I think the new sway bushings and links will bring it home.
 
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Popping sound



I've got a popping sound coming from under the truck whenever I'm turning off camber. For example if I'm turning and going up or down hill at same time, like into a drive way I'm getting a popping sound.


If you've followed my thread you know all of my suspension is new at this point except the rear sway links. The cv axles are new but not turning due to the manual hubs.

It has been aligned but was making noise before and after

It doesn't do it going straight or on level ground.



I'm wondering if the A1 Cardone reman steering rack I put on could be the culprit. Could the inner tie rods be bottoming out maybe?



Anything else I should check if it doesn't stop when I get the new rear sway links on? Thanks.
 
First off I want to say I have thoroughly enjoyed ur build thread... I'm almost through it but I accidentally jumped to the last page and read this.
AndI'm having the exact same issue right now !
The steering guide replacement Is a good read.

I tightens my guide to where I almost can't turned and then lossen it so I can turn and then the sound comes back. I found a cheap new one w 9 positive reviews... I think I might try that one. From all I have read the re-manufactured one have a tendency to be sub-par....
 
Thanks. I guess it could be the guide but I think my rack has the new style guide in it and I did all poly steering bushings from Wheelers when I put this rack in.

I was thinking I had read somewhere that non toyota oem inner tie rods don't have as much articulation in the ball joint and on a lifted truck they may bottom out. That's where I'm coming up with the idea that maybe that's what is happening when turning in to a slope.


I really need to give everything a look see. Will go over everything tonight after I get the rear sway parts in.
 
Recheck and re-torque all nuts and bolts. i went through a similar situation with a 2nd gen Tundra. Turns out that one of the nuts from the sway bar backed out on us.
 
This is an excellent thread depicting a very nice level of effort. Good Stuff.

Thanks man. Very good to reconnect with you after so many years.


Recheck and re-torque all nuts and bolts. i went through a similar situation with a 2nd gen Tundra. Turns out that one of the nuts from the sway bar backed out on us.

Thanks Vin. I'm getting under there tonight to start rechecking all of the torque settings. Will keep updating.
 
Not much new but some pictures from this past week:


Some data during a drive showing average engine temp
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Test fitting radio and switch holder
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Worked to get 50' 12/3 extension cord reel and 50' 3/8 air hose reel mounted in front of garage
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Mounting regulator and small filter / water separator next to reel so I can adjust tool pressure without going to compressor
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Added an aluminum high flow coupler on end of hose reel
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Did some additional work on the runner today. Got the new rear sway bar bushings, new rear sway bar links, and all of the associated washers, bushings and nuts for the links installed.

Also went through all of the rear suspension and bumper bolts and retorqued everything back to spec. Found a few that had loosened and needed to be tightened back down.

While I was at it, I did get the rear Sonoran Steel body mounts installed. Was pretty simple although I had to make two shout outs to Steve who was amazingly helpful and supportive as always. If Steve would sell more 3rd gen parts and general off road parts I would look to him for everything first due to his outstanding service. :thumb: I did just get the jack jaw via USPS. Thanks again, Steve. [MENTION=1795]sschaefer3[/MENTION]



And now for the 4runner porn!

New oem Toyota rear links:
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New oem Toyota rear sway bushings next to Sonoran HD lower control arms
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Factory rear body mounts
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New Sonoran Steel rear body mounts sitting on top of my torque check list :)
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Removed center nut and washer from factory mounts
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Central bolt is accessed through rear floor below rubber grommet. It is held in place by little tabs.
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With two pieces of 4x4, I lifted the body of the truck up enough to pull the old ones out and slip the new ones in
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New body mounts in place above frame
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New Sonoran Steel rear body mount in place and ready to test out
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Just gave it a test drive for about 20 miles and have to say that replacing the rear sway components and the rear body mounts is one of the best improvements to the drive and ride I've made.

The floaty funky feel I got after my lift went on is diminished and the ride has firmed up really nicely. The lift and suspension work great now and it is fun to drive. Feels more like it should have stock. :bounce: :bounce: :bounce:
 
And one more post. Wast talking with [MENTION=106708]Ghost.[/MENTION] about some vinyl graphics to continue the theme and look of my truck. I'm wanting something that blends a look of classic yota with the military type look of my build without getting cheesy and without looking like every jeep on the street.


What do you guys think of this idea using black vinyl?

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Any other ideas? I'm looking for input even though I'm kinda liking this look. Thanks.
 

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