It seems that I need to replace the u-joints on my driveshaft (the rear and only one I have as my truck is 2WD). Are there any particular brands to be avoided or to purchase? My initial reaction is to reach for Spicer or Moog/Precision, but I haven't been back in the Toyota world long enough to learn/remember whether these brands' offerings for the 4R were good or not. Oddly, I don't see many references either way in the archives here either. Anyone have any information as to what I should get? Thanks.
U-Joints For Rear Driveshaft?
- Thread starter Spktyr
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sleepydad
Senior Member
Yes, that's a nice video and it features the original Toyota part but I've watched it already. I also have some store credits outstanding at several local parts suppliers and would like to use them.
Are there any acceptable alternatives other than the Toyota OEM ones?
That's my slip yoke I sent to Timmy for the vid so... I went with OEM.
Weber automotive does a great job of testing most of the major brands... he is a little long winded but he does a great job.
YouTube
IMO if you can find a spicer part that fits it's probably the best quality.
phattyduck
Elite Member
2WD and 4WD shafts (and joints) are not the same.
Was it diagnosed to be a specific u-joint? The 2WD shaft has a front slip-yoke and two single u-joints, instead of the front double-cardan/center slip/rear u-joint setup of the 4WD.
If you are getting vibrations at highway speeds on a 2WD, it might be the center section of the shaft, not the joints at either end. It has a rubber isolator that goes bad with age/miles. If so, a whole new shaft will be needed.
-Charlie
Was it diagnosed to be a specific u-joint? The 2WD shaft has a front slip-yoke and two single u-joints, instead of the front double-cardan/center slip/rear u-joint setup of the 4WD.
If you are getting vibrations at highway speeds on a 2WD, it might be the center section of the shaft, not the joints at either end. It has a rubber isolator that goes bad with age/miles. If so, a whole new shaft will be needed.
-Charlie
I can confirm this! I just dropped off my 2000 2WD Limited driveshaft to have the u-joints replaced (front one was almost frozen solid in one direction and made noise when in reverse) and the guy said I was best off just replacing the whole shaft due to the presence of the rubber insulater. Said I'd probably still have vibration if I just did the ujoints. I don't have any vibrations (150K miles) so I still went with just the joints for now. They were $100 installed. If I have other issues after that I'll drop the $450 he wanted for a new one.
Was that $450 for a new custom made one or for a Toyota one?
I think the u-joints are interchangeable.
[QUOTE=phattyduck;
If you are getting vibrations at highway speeds on a 2WD, it might be the center section of the shaft, not the joints at either end. It has a rubber isolator that goes bad with age/miles. If so, a whole new shaft will be needed.
Does my 4WD have a "rubber isolator" also? I had u-joints replaced but still have some vibration.
If you are getting vibrations at highway speeds on a 2WD, it might be the center section of the shaft, not the joints at either end. It has a rubber isolator that goes bad with age/miles. If so, a whole new shaft will be needed.
Does my 4WD have a "rubber isolator" also? I had u-joints replaced but still have some vibration.
phattyduck
Elite Member
They may be swappable, but they are NOT the same from the factory. The 2WD driveshaft is maintenance free from the factory (no grease zerks).
No, nothing of the sort on the 4WD shafts. Check driveshaft balance, transfer case output bearings and rear diff pinion bearings. Assuming it is a buzz-type vibration...
-Charlie
Not entirely sure. Although I'm pretty sure it was not a Toyota shaft but one they make themselves. Powertrain Industries in Garden Grove, CA.
Installed the old shaft with new joints last night and all is well. $82.
I did some digging - the current Toyota part number for the front and rear driveshaft u-joints on my 2WD 4R is 04371-60070. As it was made in Japan, the original factory U-joints that came in it were made by a Japanese supplier, Matsuba. As others have noted, the original 2WD U-joints were the non-greaseable kind.
I found that that number *also* applies to the North American made 2WD Tacoma through 2004. Those trucks shipped with a greaseable U-joint - supplied by Spicer. I did some further digging and found that these lasted about as long as the Matsuba ones did if properly maintained. In fact, the trucks shipped from the factory with US-made Spicer 5-1510X U-joints in place on their driveshaft. For a while, if you ordered the Toyota U-joint for this application in the US, what you got was a Spicer 5-1510X in a Toyota box.
Since Spicer's quality has generally not declined over the years and Toyota found their product more than acceptable for some years after our trucks ceased production, I used some of my store credits and discounts to get some US made Spicer 5-1510X U-Joints for about half off. I happen to have pulled a spare driveshaft earlier and it too has a stiff and squeaky rear U-joint. Due to the weather forecast predicting nasty weather for much of the rest of the week and not having access to an indoor area where I can pull them myself, I'll have a local driveshaft shop put them in and quickly swap out the driveshaft when I get a chance.
I found that that number *also* applies to the North American made 2WD Tacoma through 2004. Those trucks shipped with a greaseable U-joint - supplied by Spicer. I did some further digging and found that these lasted about as long as the Matsuba ones did if properly maintained. In fact, the trucks shipped from the factory with US-made Spicer 5-1510X U-joints in place on their driveshaft. For a while, if you ordered the Toyota U-joint for this application in the US, what you got was a Spicer 5-1510X in a Toyota box.
Since Spicer's quality has generally not declined over the years and Toyota found their product more than acceptable for some years after our trucks ceased production, I used some of my store credits and discounts to get some US made Spicer 5-1510X U-Joints for about half off. I happen to have pulled a spare driveshaft earlier and it too has a stiff and squeaky rear U-joint. Due to the weather forecast predicting nasty weather for much of the rest of the week and not having access to an indoor area where I can pull them myself, I'll have a local driveshaft shop put them in and quickly swap out the driveshaft when I get a chance.
As a follow up. I have an 02 sr5 rwd. The ujoints are clearly toast my part number ends in 60100. so today, I decided I'd go with the oem. Checked Toyota parts. 80 bucks is msrp on line. Found spicer for 40. Ugh I'll do it.
Then I started calling stealerships. YOU MUST BE ****ING KIDDING ME. first one.. 110 in stock. Next 90 but order. Third, 159! Nobody honors the on line price and you can't order from them online.
I'm an old Nissan maxima guy. At least Nissan had the dignity to set consistent prices. This is in Tampa Bay.
Now I'm not plugging Nissan by any means because they make trash now and don't tell you that they have different levels for parts. Key value is crap, but I found this practice absurd a 69 dollar difference in the same area??
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Then I started calling stealerships. YOU MUST BE ****ING KIDDING ME. first one.. 110 in stock. Next 90 but order. Third, 159! Nobody honors the on line price and you can't order from them online.
I'm an old Nissan maxima guy. At least Nissan had the dignity to set consistent prices. This is in Tampa Bay.
Now I'm not plugging Nissan by any means because they make trash now and don't tell you that they have different levels for parts. Key value is crap, but I found this practice absurd a 69 dollar difference in the same area??
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Blown rear U joint. '01 2WD
Developed an odd vubration in my 01 2wd a week ago today. Made it home and got it to the shop today. Rear u joint tagged, ¼ of play in it. They are dealing the u jobs, front and rear of the shaft tomorrow. Going with Moog Precision greaseable replacements. Don't know the total cost yet but I'm assuming a 2 hours shop time and roughly 60/75 for the joints, so around 200 or so total. I hope.
Developed an odd vubration in my 01 2wd a week ago today. Made it home and got it to the shop today. Rear u joint tagged, ¼ of play in it. They are dealing the u jobs, front and rear of the shaft tomorrow. Going with Moog Precision greaseable replacements. Don't know the total cost yet but I'm assuming a 2 hours shop time and roughly 60/75 for the joints, so around 200 or so total. I hope.
brillo_76
Elite Member
At least you be able to grease the driveshaft now..
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Sean K.
New member
I know this is an old thread....but IME, NOTHING comes remotely close to the quality/strength/reliability of genuine Toyota OEM ujoints. I think it was Jesse over at High Angle that did some destructive testing and posted results on the PBB back in they day and the standard Toyota OEM joints broke just below torque values for Spicer 1350 1 Ton rated joints. So close to 1T strength with 1/2T size and angularity capability. The breakage was recorded at max operating angle for both joints....which for a 1350 is relatively shallow at ~20° compared to 30+ for a Toyota joint. The metallurgy seemed to be the difference as non-OEM joints didn't fair any better than 1/2T 1310 stuff.
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