UCA bolt loosened up-any tips?

[Louisiana Overland]

The ling bolt through the top of the uca loosened. I am going to fix this tomorrow. Any guidance on torque or other tricks to prevent recurrance would be appreciated.

SPC upper control arms.

 

[stick]

red thread locker

 

[Jeremy556]

Lock nut. Unless you found it very quickly, you most likely destroyed your bushings and will need to replace them.

I keep my UCA bolts backwards from stock so that I can remove them without removing the battery or messing with AC lines.

 

[CF_Machete]

I keep my UCA bolts backwards from stock so that I can remove them without removing the battery or messing with AC lines.

never had an issue with the battery or ac lines... bolt in the stock position... and did my UCAs myself

 

[gringo8251]

I suggest blue thread locker as well. I use Permetex gel but there are several brands available. Also, any time you've adjusted or recently installed a component, it's good practice to recheck your torque after about 100 miles of driving.

Edited this because I re-read your post so the whole second paragraph didn't matter.

 

[Jeremy556]

never had an issue with the battery or ac lines... bolt in the stock position... and did my UCAs myself

I'm pretty sure it is physically impossible to remove the driver's UCA bolt without moving the battery, or being ridiculous like lifting the body off the frame.

 

[sn_85]

I'm pretty sure it is physically impossible to remove the driver's UCA bolt without moving the battery, or being ridiculous like lifting the body off the frame.

I changed my UCA bolts without having to take out the battery or moving the fender body. I've seen people use a pair of pliers to grab the body and bend it to get the bolt out but I didn't have to do that. Not sure if there are physical differences between the pre and post 2014 models that may have changed that.

 

[CF_Machete]

I'm pretty sure it is physically impossible to remove the driver's UCA bolt without moving the battery, or being ridiculous like lifting the body off the frame.

Entirely possible, did it on my 2015 SR5. Just had to bend a tiny little flange to get the bolt back in

 

[delgadtn]

Not sure on factory UCAs but Total Chaos recommends 85 ft/lbs on theirs. I do not use thread lock as I loosen them to grease my bushings. Ive never had a problem with them coming loose at that torque. In fact, it takes a breaker bar and a good amount of force to crack those suckers loose.


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[alphabeast]

I'm pretty sure it is physically impossible to remove the driver's UCA bolt without moving the battery, or being ridiculous like lifting the body off the frame.

I also did the driver side without moving/changing anything. Bolt on the passenger side required (for me) moving the AC line.

 

[CF_Machete]

Not sure on factory UCAs but Total Chaos recommends 85 ft/lbs on theirs. I do not use thread lock as I loosen them to grease my bushings. Ive never had a problem with them coming loose at that torque. In fact, it takes a breaker bar and a good amount of force to crack those suckers loose.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Yup 85

 

[nb rob]

as mentioned, use a nut with a nylon ring (lock nut). Or blue threadlocker. I'd hate to have to break red threadlocker free every time to grease the bushings. It's hard enough to break a locknut free with 2 long wrenches. 85ft-lb can be a bear to get moving with limited rotation for a wrench.

I've also had to remove an AC bracket to get a socket on the end of the bolt, until I bought (2) extra long gear wrenches with flex heads. I back the thru bolt off and grease the bushing sthrough the zerks with every oil change.

 

[JohnBN200]

Ok, this is a dumb question so forgive me! What is a UCA so I can check mine? thanks.

 

[sn_85]

Ok, this is a dumb question so forgive me! What is a UCA so I can check mine? thanks.

If you didn't mod your suspension or get new Upper Control Arms (UCA) then I wouldn't worry about it.

 

[JohnBN200]

If you didn't mod your suspension or get new Upper Control Arms (UCA) then I wouldn't worry about it.

Thanks for the info. I did have a 2 inch lift put on it 4 years ago. Thanks again for the info.

 

[ayeyothisiskyle]

I'm pretty sure it is physically impossible to remove the driver's UCA bolt without moving the battery, or being ridiculous like lifting the body off the frame.

It can be done on 4Runners fairly easily. The Tacomas, however have to bend/airhammer/cut small parts of frame to clear the through bolt.

https://youtu.be/bbsTJgb6S_c?t=6m38s

 

[jrandom]

If you want to be nuts :madgrin: about it, use a castle nut as the jam nut and drill a cotter hole in the end of the bolt.

 

[Louisiana Overland]

Repair is done. Thanks for the advice guys.

I checked both UCA bolts. The drivers side was still snug. I backed both off and applied the thread lock and then torqued. Everything else I chrcked while I was under it looked fine. The rattle I heard is gone and all seems well. I know now to take a peek at it when I do oil changes. ....regularly.

Now I can get on my fridge wiring project!

 

[flyrv9]

Well for those who don't like thread locker or lock washers, you can use a nut that's drilled for safety wire and go that route.

 

[gringo8251]

Well for those who don't like thread locker or lock washers, you can use a nut that's drilled for safety wire and go that route.

LOL imagine all the guys that go nuts about number of twist per inch and correct sizing of the safety wire, also called lock wire. Other than race applications, I've only seen one dude use it on a vehicle. He was a aviation mechanic that basically worked on his truck like it was a airplane
[MENTION=176486]Louisiana Overland[/MENTION] good to see you got it fixed